FH500V problems

Kent County Lawnmower

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Most likely the valve guide move in the head very common for that model. Match up the valve guides they should stick out of the head the same length intake and exhaust by half-inch. You can try tapping it back in place and peening in and replace the pushrod. I just the valves to 0.02
 

Poppy

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Hey guys, I just joined and found this thread ... I have the 17 hp FH500V on my mower (ExMark Lazer Z 42") and have no compression on the left cylinder. Happened all of a sudden after Thanksgiving and 13 years on our lawn (wouldn't crank and everything else appeared okay). I think it too may be a stuck valve.

Can you work on a potential valve problem without pulling the engine and also if you do have to pull the engine, do shops hoist the mower up sorta vertical or put it on a rack and get under it? Don't know at 13 years whether I should start over.

Thanks for any help ... Poppy (that's what the grand kids call me)
 

ILENGINE

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Shops both hoist them on a lift, or lift them up to get under them. You don't have to pull the engine to work on the valves, unless you can't get the valve covers off without pulling the engine. Never seen that happen, but have had to remove guards, hoods, grills, on various mowers over the years.

Have had to remove engines to repair carbs on a few though.
 

Poppy

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Hey IE, thanks for the response ... it's a big help. Is there a simple procedure for zeroing in on stuck valve vs. something else? In 13 years I've never had this thing apart.

Pop
 

ILENGINE

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If you have confirmed no compression it wouldn't hurt to just pull the valve cover and take a look. If you have a valve stuck open, the push rod will be laying loose. Start there and see what you find.
 

Poppy

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If you have confirmed no compression it wouldn't hurt to just pull the valve cover and take a look. If you have a valve stuck open, the push rod will be laying loose. Start there and see what you find.

Hey ILENGINE, I adjusted the valves several times (.004-5) over the last few weeks around the bad weather but was still getting about 55 lbs on the right cyl and 0 on the left. Tried to follow the Kaw manual/youtube tapes doing it. As I rotated the engine, all the valve springs, push rods, valve stems looked like they were doing what they're supposed to do, but I'll have another look tomorrow to see if I missed something. Both cylinders were close to the correct tolerances before I started. Haven't pulled the plastic engine cover yet to have a look see. The engine wouldn't crank nor run on one cylinder with no pressure would it?

Thanks ... Pop
 

Poppy

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ILENGINE

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With 55 on the good cylinder, you have a problem with both cylinders. I suspect this problem began before you noticed the no start issue, or when it quit. I would be going for a leakdown test at this point to find out where the compression is going. I would also find out if you have a broken rod on that 0 cylinder by determining if the piston goes up and down.
 

Poppy

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Both pistons seemed to be moving fine?? when I wrenched the flywheel around to find TDC but I'll check the bad cyl again ... and do some reading about leakdown tests, sounds like it's pointing toward the rings maybe.

Is an engine rebuild worth it on a 13 yo engine vs replacing it or trading it in?

Thanks again ... Pop
 
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