Ferris Pro Cut S 61"

[Mad Mackie]

Just looking at the parts manual again, I see one pump that "tees' to two wheel motors.

 

[Mad Mackie]

Here is what I would do.
Buy a new OEM filter, no substitutes. Buy a one gallon or 5 Qt container of Mobil 1 15W-50, I think that is what is called for.
Be prepared to catch up to 5 qts of oil, as when the filter is removed, the reservoir will drain all of its oil out thru the filter mount when the filter is removed.
Place the new filter vertical, fill it with new oil, let the air bubbles escape. Just before you go to install it, pour most of the oil out of it, this oil is usable, so save it in a clean container, put some shop towels under the filter mount and install the filter.
Fill the reservoir to its normal level and let the machine sit for a while with the reservoir cover off, this will allow some oil to displace the air in the filter.
Generally the machine needs to have the drive wheels off the floor while doing the air bleeding procedure.
Start the engine and look at the return line in the reservoir. Usually this can be seen thru the filler neck of the reservoir.
Oil will return back to the reservoir and as it returns there will be air bubbles in it. Let the engine run until the air bubbles start to diminish.
Operate the foot pedal to cause the wheel motors to turn, forward and reverse a few times.
Recheck the oil level in the reservoir, take the machine off the jacks or whatever is raising it up. Check for leaks around the filter, operate the machine normally.
I think that the system will self bleed OK.
On some machines, opening the bypass valve helps to bleed the system, then closing the bypass valve before operating the machine.
Before you do this let me post to you what my plan B is. I gotta go to bed, I'm old!!!! HaHa!!!
Later!!

 

[totouchantler]

THANKS!!! Your knowledge is amazing! I will recollect in am of next weekend!
Chris

 

[totouchantler]

Here is what I would do.
Buy a new OEM filter, no substitutes. Buy a one gallon or 5 Qt container of Mobil 1 15W-50, I think that is what is called for.
Be prepared to catch up to 5 qts of oil, as when the filter is removed, the reservoir will drain all of its oil out thru the filter mount when the filter is removed.
Place the new filter vertical, fill it with new oil, let the air bubbles escape. Just before you go to install it, pour most of the oil out of it, this oil is usable, so save it in a clean container, put some shop towels under the filter mount and install the filter.
Fill the reservoir to its normal level and let the machine sit for a while with the reservoir cover off, this will allow some oil to displace the air in the filter.
Generally the machine needs to have the drive wheels off the floor while doing the air bleeding procedure.
Start the engine and look at the return line in the reservoir. Usually this can be seen thru the filler neck of the reservoir.
Oil will return back to the reservoir and as it returns there will be air bubbles in it. Let the engine run until the air bubbles start to diminish.
Operate the foot pedal to cause the wheel motors to turn, forward and reverse a few times.
Recheck the oil level in the reservoir, take the machine off the jacks or whatever is raising it up. Check for leaks around the filter, operate the machine normally.
I think that the system will self bleed OK.
On some machines, opening the bypass valve helps to bleed the system, then closing the bypass valve before operating the machine.
Before you do this let me post to you what my plan B is. I gotta go to bed, I'm old!!!! HaHa!!!
Later!!

Here is what dealership says.
1. Warm oil up (run machine a little while)
2. If you have evacuation pump... evacuate oil from reservoir through fill cap.
3. Place rags under filter housing, unscrew filter. (try and rig some kind of catch to collect remaining drips etc.)
4. Fill new filter up about half way with oil and swish around etc.; then walk away for about 5 minutes as filter paper absorbs oil.
5. Screw new filter onto housing (don't take your time as oil will want to seep out).
6. Fill reservoir to proper fill level.
7. Start machine for a few seconds; then shut off. Check level add oil as needed.

He said machine might be a bit hesitant at first but remaining air will self purge/burp after a little while.

Does this sound reasonable?

Chris

 

[Mad Mackie]

Hi Chris,
Yes, that sounds reasonable, there are machines that evacuating the hyd reservoir is the best and least messy way to prep for a hyd system oil change.
The key is to get the hyd oil hot enough. I have a 5 litter oil evacuation system that has a vacuum pump to make it work and I use it often for both hyd and engine oil.
You may need to operate the machine for a while to get the hyd oil temp up some and evacuate the oil from the reservoir. To reduce oil dripping, I punch a hole in the filter at the 12 o'clock position near the end, turn the filter 180 degrees unloosening it and punch another hole in it. With a container placed under the filter to catch oil, the filter can be drained before removing it thereby reducing the oil spills.
Fill the new filter, it will absorb oil, until it is full. Pour off some of the oil and install the filter. Fill the reservoir to the normal level.
Your dealer has given you key info on regarding purging air from the system, start the engine, let it run for a few seconds, shut it off. This will allow the filter to self purge. I would let the machine sit for a while before restarting it.
Oil evacuation systems are available and start at around $40 and go up from there. They are very useful and reduce oil messes. I change engine oil on most machines withdrawing the oil thru the dipstick tube.
Enjoy!!!
Let us know how you make out!!!:laughing:

 

[totouchantler]

Hi Chris,
Yes, that sounds reasonable, there are machines that evacuating the hyd reservoir is the best and least messy way to prep for a hyd system oil change.
The key is to get the hyd oil hot enough. I have a 5 litter oil evacuation system that has a vacuum pump to make it work and I use it often for both hyd and engine oil.
You may need to operate the machine for a while to get the hyd oil temp up some and evacuate the oil from the reservoir. To reduce oil dripping, I punch a hole in the filter at the 12 o'clock position near the end, turn the filter 180 degrees unloosening it and punch another hole in it. With a container placed under the filter to catch oil, the filter can be drained before removing it thereby reducing the oil spills.
Fill the new filter, it will absorb oil, until it is full. Pour off some of the oil and install the filter. Fill the reservoir to the normal level.
Your dealer has given you key info on regarding purging air from the system, start the engine, let it run for a few seconds, shut it off. This will allow the filter to self purge. I would let the machine sit for a while before restarting it.
Oil evacuation systems are available and start at around $40 and go up from there. They are very useful and reduce oil messes. I change engine oil on most machines withdrawing the oil thru the dipstick tube.
Enjoy!!!
Let us know how you make out!!!:laughing:

Thanks Mad! I really like the idea of blowing a hole in the filter to control the spill better! Great idea! Thanks again. Between talking with you and the dealer (mostly you), I feel comfortable tackling this job! Thanks again.... I'll keep you posted!
Chris

 

[thespyderbyte]

Have only been with the lawn mower forum for a short time and already love it for the information I am getting. Have a commercial Ferris Procut 61 with a major hydraulic leak . Hopefully it may be only a lose hose. So much grass and fluid on the bottom my first order is to pressure wash the bottom so I can see what is going on. The mower is old but still going strong. Again thanks for the information.

 

[BlazNT]

If you preasure wash you may get water in hydro fluid. Change the oil when done with repair.

 

[thespyderbyte]

Thanks a lot! I would have never thought of draining the hydraulic fluid. I know there will not be too much fluid in it, at the moment it is using more fluid than gasoline. It had to be cleaned on the bottom to see where it is leaking from. After today the mower is looking like it did when new, a lot more red showing LOL!! I have never found/read anything on what kind of hydraulic fluid to use in the mower. Have always bought the cheapest from tractor supply but it was like a general universal hydraulic fluid. Any kind of fluid you recommend and additives for gas, oil or fluid in this mower I would greatly appreciate. The past owner used 10w-30 pennzoil in it, so have continued using that oil.

 

[BlazNT]

Hydro-Gear uses 20 W50.
If you could get the model number off the drive when you are done cleaning it I can tell you what it is supposed to have in it. The manual should also let you know what it needs.