Export thread

FD 731v not Fr731v as I always type. Edited ... Starts but dies suddenly

#1

H

Hardluck

I am apply for help again as I can not get my Kawasaki to stay running.

i have:

Changed the fuel ,drained the tank 3 times
changed Spark plugs , They are getting fire
changed the fuel pump. it is pumping fuel
Cleaned or changed the the air filters
Cleaned the carburetor.
Checked the safety switches , they are working are the engine won't turn over (correct)

I hate to beg but I am very desperate for help. If there is a better site to get help please let me know. I am in my mid 70's a not as capable at repairs as I used to be and or I would push mow it if I could

Thank you, All ideas and suggestion are greatly appreciated .


#2

B

Bertrrr

If it was your safety's it would not do anything when you try it, so If I understand you , your machine will start but then dies after running a bit ,
It sounds like a fuel problem, I had a similar issue and found the fuel supply side was sucking air from a bad hose connection , Drop your suction line into a clean bucket of fuel and bypass your supply from the tank and see what it does , if it runs longer and ok, then you have a supply side ( tank feed ) problem . Post your results and we'll go from there.


#3

H

Hardluck

Bertrrr said:
If it was your safety's it would not do anything when you try it, so If I understand you , your machine will start but then dies after running a bit ,
It sounds like a fuel problem, I had a similar issue and found the fuel supply side was sucking air from a bad hose connection , Drop your suction line into a clean bucket of fuel and bypass your supply from the tank and see what it does , if it runs longer and ok, then you have a supply side ( tank feed ) problem . Post your results and we'll go from there.
Click to expand...


#4

H

Hardluck

Thank you very much. Correct it does start for a second.
I have removed the discharge line from the fuel pump and turned the engine over and fuel pumps out at a good rate.


#5

H

Hardluck

Adding some new information.
I had posted previously about a clicking sound coming from the engine some where but could not locate it.
I finally found it. It is the electric actuator that is in the back of the carburetor.
When I unplug it the clicking stops. Is it normal for it to click.
I never really noticed it before I have the no run issues.
When I take it out of carb and try to start the engine runs for a few more seconds, no long but longer. Of course the fuel runs out the carburetor bowl with out the actuator in it.

Help me ...what does this tell me ?
Will a new actuator help ?
I just can't find the fuel problem.
Tks


#6

H

Hardluck

How do you check the ground on a carb actuator or solenoid ?


#7

B

Bertrrr

The Solenoid under the carb should have voltage when the key is turned on , this opens the fuel flow to the carb, sounds like the connection there is faulty, connect a separate 12 volt supply to the solenoid and start the machine, if it runs good then your wire from the key switch to the solenoid is shorted , easy fix with a new wire


#8

H

Hardluck

Bertrrr said:
The Solenoid under the carb should have voltage when the key is turned on , this opens the fuel flow to the carb, sounds like the connection there is faulty, connect a separate 12 volt supply to the solenoid and start the machine, if it runs good then your wire from the key switch to the solenoid is shorted , easy fix with a new wire
Click to expand...
Thank you I will give it try.


#9

H

Hardluck

Hardluck said:
Thank you I will give it try.
Click to expand...
The wire has 12volts.
I ran a now wire from the battery just to double check the switch. Got the same results.
Clicking and humming sound. After it is on for 20 or 30 seconds it stops making the noise. Weird huh .
I will order a new solenoid and give it a go.
I am running if options!


#10

B

Bertrrr

Might just be the solenoid if the power is constant and clicking continues


#11

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Hardluck said:
The wire has 12volts.
I ran a now wire from the battery just to double check the switch. Got the same results.
Clicking and humming sound. After it is on for 20 or 30 seconds it stops making the noise. Weird huh .
I will order a new solenoid and give it a go.
I am running if options!
Click to expand...
cut the plunger off the solenoid and see if the engine continues to run properly.
this part is not required in any way shape or form for the engine to perform safely or properly


#12

H

Hardluck

I am hoping. I ordered one.


#13

B

Bertrrr

The plunger stops it from backfiring when you kill the machine I think , I removed mine when trouble shooting the same problem and experienced this. Good way to test though


#14

H

Hardluck

Bertrrr said:
The plunger stops it from backfiring when you kill the machine I think , I removed mine when trouble shooting the same problem and experienced this. Good way to test though
Click to expand...
It won't start with it unplugged. Should it start with it unplugged.
It doesn't!
What thread size so
I can maybe plug the hole and see if runs.


#15

B

Bertrrr

Not sure thread size but it's a machine thread with an o ring if I remember correctly, when you unplug it , it returns back into the seat which shuts off fuel, it take voltage to retract the plunger and allow fuel to get into the carb bowl.
It appears it works for start up but might be loosing voltage and shutting you down when running. You can cut the plunger off with pliers and re attache to the bowl and see if it runs or not, you've already ordered a new one but I think your problem is with the voltage feed wire.


#16

S

slomo

That is an after fire solenoid. Battery voltage holds the plunger down away from the carb or detracts the plunger. No power to the solenoid extends plunger shutting off fuel to carb main jet.


#17

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10 said:
cut the plunger off the solenoid and see if the engine continues to run properly.
this part is not required in any way shape or form for the engine to perform safely or properly
Click to expand...


#18

S

slomo

Can't believe you offered this up. I put this out a while back. Tons of guys said never snip the plunger.

I do the snip deal all the time. Shut off the fuel with an inline valve, all good playboy. Or get a small bolt with the same threads as the solenoid.


#19

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

slomo said:
Can't believe you offered this up. I put this out a while back. Tons of guys said never snip the plunger.

I do the snip deal all the time. Shut off the fuel with an inline valve, all good playboy. Or get a small bolt with the same threads as the solenoid.
Click to expand...
only the uninformed who think the plunger keeps your carb from flooding out....


#20

H

Hardluck

Thanks for all of the great replies.
I have ran a wire directly from the battery to the solenoid and got the same results and the same humming and clicking noise from the solenoid. I'm trying to find some new fuel line but doik ow what the correct size it I bought some it was too small OD and very thin wall , it would probably work but I think the thicker wall would be better. I need some fuel line to add a shut off as my mower doesn't have one. ( Cheap Badboy) Not inexpensive but cheap! My new solenoid shouldn't be in by Friday. I am hoping


#21

H

Hardluck

Thanks for all of the great replies.
I have ran a wire directly from the battery to the solenoid and got the same results and the same humming and clicking noise from the solenoid. I'm trying to find some new fuel line but doik ow what the correct size it I bought some it was too small OD and very thin wall , it would probably work but I think the thicker wall would be better. I need some fuel line to add a shut off as my mower doesn't have one. ( Cheap Badboy) Not inexpensive but cheap! My new solenoid shouldn't be in by Friday. I am hoping


#22

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

should be 1/4" Internal diameter.. Auto parts stores will usually sell it by the foot.


#23

H

Hardluck

Scrubcadet10 said:
should be 1/4" Internal diameter.. Auto parts stores will usually sell it by the foot.
Click to expand...
Thank u


#24

B

bertsmobile1

Should only click once when you turn it on and once again when you turn it off
Check the ground connection as it is often done through a flimsy screw in the heat shield
Remove it and check that it snaps on & off.
Debris builds up inside the plunger that stops them retracting properly
Also check the mowers main ground wire .
I use a 9 Volt transistor battery ( pinched from my volt meter ) to test them


#25

H

Hardluck

Thank you.
How do I check the ground? This only has 1 wire , hot, going to the solenoid,,


#26

H

Hardluck

The ground from the battery is good.


#27

F

Freddie21

Remove the solenoid. There should be a spring plunger arm on the inside of it. Some have a rubber black cap. Should move freely. For test purposes, clip the small arm off. This will disable the solenoid function of shutting off fuel when the power is turned off. Reinstall and do not connect the power to it. Run the engine and see if it makes a difference. If it does, you can run the engine this way until you can order a replacement solenoid.
Also, if it has not bee suggested, loosen the gas cap.


#28

T

takeflight12

Does this motor have a low oil sensor on it? I have seen that on small engines that start and then stop almost immediately


#29

packy51

packy51

Hardluck said:
I am apply for help again as I can not get my Kawasaki to stay running.

i have:

Changed the fuel ,drained the tank 3 times
changed Spark plugs , They are getting fire
changed the fuel pump. it is pumping fuel
Cleaned or changed the the air filters
Cleaned the carburetor.
Checked the safety switches , they are working are the engine won't turn over (correct)

I hate to beg but I am very desperate for help. If there is a better site to get help please let me know. I am in my mid 70's a not as capable at repairs as I used to be and or I would push mow it if I could

Thank you, All ideas and suggestion are greatly appreciated .
Click to expand...
I would look on YouTube. There are many videos out there on issues dealing with the FR series Kawasaki. From what I've seen, it appoears that the FR series is not one of Kawasaki's best lines. I have found many of these videos very helpful. I have an FR651 with no issues but it only has 200 hrs so far and hope it stays that way.


#30

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

Hardluck said:
I am apply for help again as I can not get my Kawasaki to stay running.

i have:

Changed the fuel ,drained the tank 3 times
changed Spark plugs , They are getting fire
changed the fuel pump. it is pumping fuel
Cleaned or changed the the air filters
Cleaned the carburetor.
Checked the safety switches , they are working are the engine won't turn over (correct)

I hate to beg but I am very desperate for help. If there is a better site to get help please let me know. I am in my mid 70's a not as capable at repairs as I used to be and or I would push mow it if I could

Thank you, All ideas and suggestion are greatly appreciated .
Click to expand...
When a small engine quits suddenly, it is often spark not fuel. The Kawasaki 's most often have a trigger on the side of the block easily replaced which can be intermittent. you can buy a cheap inline spark neon bulb to watch if the spark disappears when it quits.


#31

S

Silviasil

Hardluck said:
Thanks for all of the great replies.
I have ran a wire directly from the battery to the solenoid and got the same results and the same humming and clicking noise from the solenoid. I'm trying to find some new fuel line but doik ow what the correct size it I bought some it was too small OD and very thin wall , it would probably work but I think the thicker wall would be better. I need some fuel line to add a shut off as my mower doesn't have one. ( Cheap Badboy) Not inexpensive but cheap! My new solenoid shouldn't be in by Friday. I am hoping
Click to expand...
To make a long story shorter, I took that solenoid off, turned it upside down and sprayed carb cleaner in the plunger side and got out really fine grit. Works fine now. I think the fine dirt was keeping the fine spring from totally collapsing barely allowing the plunger to open for fuel to flow. Good luck


#32

S

slomo

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ said:
When a small engine quits suddenly, it is often spark not fuel. The Kawasaki 's most often have a trigger on the side of the block easily replaced which can be intermittent. you can buy a cheap inline spark neon bulb to watch if the spark disappears when it quits.
Click to expand...
You can duplicate it with any mower. Pushers are easy. Let go of the deadman lever and listen to the engine slowly wind down. This kills the ignition. Hold the lever in just a touch from not touching. This keep the flywheel brake away from flywheel. Flywheel will slowly wind down from engine compression.


#33

H

Hardluck

Thank you I'll give that a try. That one is something I wish I had thought of weeks ago.


#34

H

Hardluck

Tried cleaning the solenoid with carb cleaner and still no go. It still makes the clicking sound.

Question, With the solenoid out of the carb and the wire attached, touching the ground to. get a small spark (of course) but no clicking or solenoid pin moving. Does that seen right. Shouldn't it click or move in and out? What is the clicking sound coming from when the solenoid is installed in the carb?


#35

S

slomo

Hardluck said:
Tried cleaning the solenoid with carb cleaner and still no go. It still makes the clicking sound.
Click to expand...
Sound has zero to do with it working. Plunger shaft could be corroded off. Solenoid still clicking away. You need to visually test this part with a 9 volt or turn the key on and off. Simple as that. No need for 4 pages of correspondence.

2 wires on most solenoids. One has 12 volts key on. 0 volts key off. Other wire, last one in the harness, no other wires present, is the ground. So we've narrowed it down to 2 wires. Everyone with us?

All you have to do is remove the carb bowl looking AT the after fire solenoid plunger. Turn the key on and off. Plunger should extend and retract. That's it guys. And I'm spent.....


#36

H

Hardluck

Thanks.


#37

H

Hardluck

Looking for a replacement carburetor for this badboy.
I have replaced everything else. It now starts pretty easy but only runs for a few seconds..... Again.I did replace the carburetor solenoid, which was also bad and it at least starts again.
It seems to a fuel problem and I have replaced the fuel filter and pump. I tried to clean the carb but didn't take it apart. It's beyond my capability as old and disabled as I am.

I am hoping to be able to remove and replace the carburetor with a new one.
Kawasaki
Engine model is FD731V-AS09.
Kawasaki parts lookup is terrible. They want you to go to a dealer even to get a part number.
Where can I a reasonable priced carb?


#38

B

bertsmobile1

Hardluck said:
Thank you.
How do I check the ground? This only has 1 wire , hot, going to the solenoid,,
Click to expand...
In that case it grounds through the carburettor body
On rubber mounted carbs there should be a grounding strap that goes on one of the carb studs .
These often break or fall off unnoticed when the carb is removed as there is generally a fir bit of gunk there .
heck the body of the carb to the engine for continuity and same with the solenoid
Pull the plug off the solenoid and check if the solenoid has 1 or 2 pins
Never seen a Kawakasi engine with a single pin solenoid , usually they are 2 pin


#39

H

Hardluck

bertsmobile1 said:
In that case it grounds through the carburettor body
On rubber mounted carbs there should be a grounding strap that goes on one of the carb studs .
These often break or fall off unnoticed when the carb is removed as there is generally a fir bit of gunk there .
heck the body of the carb to the engine for continuity and same with the solenoid
Pull the plug off the solenoid and check if the solenoid has 1 or 2 pins
Never seen a Kawakasi engine with a single pin solenoid , usually they are 2 pin
Click to expand...
Thanks, solenoid was bad and has been replaced. The new one works fine. But engine dies I. A second or siy. It restarted immediately. Repeat repeat and so in.


#40

H

Hardluck

I am looking for a video on cleaning the carburetor . I saw


#41

H

Hardluck

I have the bowl off the carburetor , carb is still on the engine. The bowl has four tunnels if you would can I just spray carb cleaner in them to clean or are their jets or something in them that need to taken out. I just don;t want to ruin it.

I saw a video a few weeks back on;line but I cannot locate it again. I have spent hours looking watching other videos but none for this carb , with this bowl design.


#42

H

Hardluck

Another update.
Cleaned the carb. Helped a little but not enough. Put the old fuel pump back on.
Better. But not perfect
It dies at least run for several minutes if you keep pulling the choke on and half off.
As after running for a couple minutes, and restarting several times I can get it running about 2/3 throttle and 1/3 choke it runs pretty steady.
If I increase the throttle to full the RPM surges.
As t least it runs just not good enough to mow yet.
It seems a new carburetor maybe my only option.
Where can I get a good one cheap enough that I can afford.it seems most eBay and Amazon stuff is crap. At least what I purchase.


#43

S

slomo

Snip off after fire solenoid plunger inside the carb. Reinstall solenoid.

Pull coil kill wire off for testing. Should run fuel tank dry if coil is good.

Engage the choke when engine starts loosing power. See if she smooths out.

Get a cheap hot plate from a yard sale. Remove all rubber and plastic parts from carb. Boil carb in water and degreaser for an hour. Take fishing line or small gauge bread ties to rod every hole you can see. Rinse with fresh water. Blow out with compressed shop air and SAFETY GLASSES both ways. Make sure the emulsion tube is perfect. Do NOT use welding tip cleaners. Those are hardened steel. They will enlarge main and pilot jets with one pass. Jets are soft brass.

Make sure carb float level is spot on.

Pressure test carb needle/seat at 7psi with a wet needle. Should hold for >30 mins.


#44

H

Hardluck

Thanks,

I did what I could do. I am not as capable at repair as I was .I'm getting to old to work on this stuff I'm afraid, Solenoid issue solved. Can't pressure test the carb. I can get it running with about 2/3 throttle and 1/3 choke. Full throttle dies and fuel choke dies as well as no choke.


#45

H

hlw49

Don't sell yourself short I am 74 years old and work on these things every day. Right now in the shop have a 27 HP Generac off a Dixie Chopper Silver Eagle. It has the govenor blown in it. Got it off with the help of one of the other guys. It was a bear since the clutch was stuck on the crank shaft. Was able to work the engine off with the clutch on and finally got the clutch off. Sprayed it with Super Zilla and took a small chisel and drove it between the motion pulley and a washer just above the pulley below the crank. So as to not harm the crank shaft. Got it to move. Took a bigger chisel and got it to move more. Took a hammer and was able to tap it off.


#46

H

hlw49

packy51 said:
I would look on YouTube. There are many videos out there on issues dealing with the FR series Kawasaki. From what I've seen, it appoears that the FR series is not one of Kawasaki's best lines. I have found many of these videos very helpful. I have an FR651 with no issues but it only has 200 hrs so far and hope it stays that way.
Click to expand...
The FR-FS and the FX are the same basic engine. They just have different external parts. Carb, air filter, blower housing. All the engines in a block size are the same. Like FR651-691 and 730 are the 730 block. FX751-801 and 850 are built on the 850 block. The difference I can see is the carb. They have stops on the throttle shaft in difference places limiting the opening of the throttle. So I would say you could make a say FR651 a FR730 by changing the carb.


#47

H

Hardluck

I always write and say it's a FR but actually it is an FD 731.
Need to edit my post


#48

H

Hardluck

Well I removed the Carburetor cleaner and reinstalled of a few minutes it started and ran for a little bit, I tried to mow and the thing quit again after about 5 minutes of mowing. Now it is stuck about 80 yards from the house and only starts and dies within 2 seconds again.

What now?
Get me a cheap place to buy a new carb and fuel pump online please.


#49

S

slomo

Hardluck said:
What now?
Click to expand...
You ignored most of my free offerings. Or unaware how to. Should ask if you get stuck. We have no clue if you even cleaned or did anything proper to fix it. Some people say yeah I cleaned the carb. To them, that means sprayed cleaner on the outside of the carb. Inside is what counts. Let's start small.

1.Crack open fuel tank cap. Shot in the dark your cap vent is not working.

2.Need to verify strong spark. As in taking an old plug. Gapping it to 0.25" or 1/4" wide. See if she fires strongly one one or both cylinders. Ground the plug to the engine block. Crank the engine over.

3.Buy/build an auxiliary fuel tank, plastic 2 liter bottle, what ever that holds gas. Line down to carb. See if she runs the pony tank dry. Use a new fuel line from pony tank to carb fuel inlet pipe. Report back.


#50

H

Hardluck

slomo said:
You ignored most of my free offerings. Or unaware how to. Should ask if you get stuck. We have no clue if you even cleaned or did anything proper to fix it. Some people say yeah I cleaned the carb. To them, that means sprayed cleaner on the outside of the carb. Inside is what counts. Let's start small.

1.Crack open fuel tank cap. Shot in the dark your cap vent is not working.

2.Need to verify strong spark. As in taking an old plug. Gapping it to 0.25" or 1/4" wide. See if she fires strongly one one or both cylinders. Ground the plug to the engine block. Crank the engine over.

3.Buy/build an auxiliary fuel tank, plastic 2 liter bottle, what ever that holds gas. Line down to carb. See if she runs the pony tank dry. Use a new fuel line from pony tank to carb fuel inlet pipe. Report back.
Click to expand...
Sorry. I thought I said everything that I had did in previous posts and answers.
Removed and cleaned / replaced air filters
Getting spark both cylinders, replaced spark plugs, changed fuel pump , tested it removed and I stalled the original fuel pump it had slightly better flow.
Drained fuel tanks and changed fuel three times. Changed fuel. Cleaned carburetor with carb cleaner spray. Replaced solenoid valve. Tested it and it works. Could not snip off the pin on the solenoid as my cutters would not cut it.
Loosen and even removed the fuel tank caps, removed carburetor and disassemble everything I could and cleaned with carburetor cleaner. Reassembled and installed.
Did run some better not nothing has worked so far. Thanks for help.
I'm am trying to buy a carburetor and verify my correct carb number is 15004-2063 for FD731V AS09 . Needing a good price and place to purchase. Replaced fuel with new ethanol fuel Everytime I drained and replaced fuel from tank . Added extra ground wire.
I do not know how to remove pull the hot coil wire.


#51

S

slomo

Hardluck said:
Sorry. I thought I said everything that I had did in previous posts and answers.
Removed and cleaned / replaced air filters. Need to remove the air filter for testing only. I've seen perfectly good clean "looking" filters choke an engine down making it sputter. New air filter, she ran perfect.
Getting spark both cylinders can each jump a 1/4" gap in free air?, replaced spark plugs, changed fuel pump , tested it removed and I stalled the original fuel pump it had slightly better flow.
Drained fuel tanks and changed fuel three times, No mention of FLUSHING out or blowing with shop air both ways. Changed fuel. Cleaned carburetor with carb cleaner spray It might take 4 cleanings to get her clean internally. Most likely you need to boil it then blow out with shop air and eye protection. Replaced solenoid valve. Tested it and it works. Could not snip off the pin on the solenoid as my cutters would not cut it. You don't have any wire cutters? Dikes? Hacksaw? Beavers? Dremel Tools?
Loosen and even removed the fuel tank caps, removed carburetor and disassemble everything I could and cleaned with carburetor cleaner. Reassembled and installed.
Did run some better not nothing has worked so far. Thanks for help.
I'm am trying to buy a carburetor and verify my correct carb number is 15004-2063 for FD731V AS09 . Needing a good price and place to purchase. Replaced fuel with new ethanol fuel Everytime I drained and replaced fuel from tank . Added extra ground wire.
I do not know how to remove pull the hot coil wire. The kill wire is the small gauge wire on the coil. There is a kill wire and the plug wire. Nothing else to talk about.
Click to expand...
See above in red.


#52

S

slomo

Here is what I could pull up to be your carb. Verify this is yours. This might not be 100% accurate in being your carb.

Kawasaki Engines Parts Lookup | Kawasaki Engines USA

Access a complete list of Kawasaki Genuine Parts and other maintenance products and service parts with our convenient parts lookup tool, which includes illustrated parts diagrams.
kawasakienginesusa.com

Here is an ebay search for that model of carb. Again verify that carb fits your machine.

www.ebay.com

15004-2063 for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for 15004-2063 at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!
www.ebay.com


#53

H

Hardluck

slomo said:
Here is what I could pull up to be your carb. Verify this is yours. This might not be 100% accurate in being your carb.

Kawasaki Engines Parts Lookup | Kawasaki Engines USA

Access a complete list of Kawasaki Genuine Parts and other maintenance products and service parts with our convenient parts lookup tool, which includes illustrated parts diagrams.
kawasakienginesusa.com

Here is an ebay search for that model of carb. Again verify that carb fits your machine.

www.ebay.com

15004-2063 for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for 15004-2063 at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
That is what I came up with also for part number.


#54

K

krackerjack9

had mine at dealer for 2 weeks new coils new plugs, valves adjusted, they say carb is fine, new fuel lines , fuel pump is fine, but it runs for 14 seconds exactly then bogs down to 2200rpm for exactly 8 seconds then back to full power for 14 seconds, they have had it for 2 weeks working on it. talked to them today they said their doing some research to see if theirs something they missed


#55

H

Hardluck

said:
Sorry. I thought I said everything that I had did in previous posts and answers.
Removed and cleaned / replaced air filters. Need to remove the air filter for testing only. I've seen perfectly good clean "looking" filters choke an engine down making it sputter. New air filter, she ran perfect.
Getting spark both cylinders can each jump a 1/4" gap in free air?, replaced spark plugs, changed fuel pump , tested it removed and I stalled the original fuel pump it had slightly better flow.
Drained fuel tanks and changed fuel three times, No mention of FLUSHING out or blowing with shop air both ways. Changed fuel. Cleaned carburetor with carb cleaner spray It might take 4 cleanings to get her clean internally. Most likely you need to boil it then blow out with shop air and eye protection. Replaced solenoid valve. Tested it and it works. Could not snip off the pin on the solenoid as my cutters would not cut it. You don't have any wire cutters? Dikes? Hacksaw? Beavers? Dremel Tools?
Loosen and even removed the fuel tank caps, removed carburetor and disassemble everything I could and cleaned with carburetor cleaner. Reassembled and installed.
Did run some better not nothing has worked so far. Thanks for help.
I'm am trying to buy a carburetor and verify my correct carb number is 15004-2063 for FD731V AS09 . Needing a good price and place to purchase. Replaced fuel with new ethanol fuel Everytime I drained and replaced fuel from tank . Added extra ground wire.
I do not know how to remove pull the hot coil wire.


#56

H

Hardluck

slomo said:
See above in red.
Click to expand...
Quick answer is
yes, this engine has a radiator on top, not shroud. the top of the engine is exposed if you remove the filter case. IT debris blows out very good with a blower after ever mowing, I did inspect it well while working it this season.


#57

H

Hardluck

Like Reply
I think I answered everything, i tried to to a cut and paste with your red highlights but I also couldn't d that as well.
I did blow out the carb after cleaning with compressor and air hose.


Footer Links 1

Top