Grass Mower
Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2016
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 13
New member here. I have a 1988 John Deere SX-95 mower with a Kawasaki FB460V engine, serial no. FB460-225099 that has a curious problem that has me stumped. The engine was surging, and then, over a period of intermittent use (weeks), began running rich, with sooty exhaust and increased fuel use. I cleaned the air cleaner (not much dirt), and running it briefly with the cleaner element off didn't make a difference. I replaced the fuel lines and fuel filter and cleaned the fuel tank. The fuel tank cap has a crack in it, so there's no restriction on venting. Also tried two new spark plugs. I had removed and cleaned the carb and all its parts and was preparing to do it again when it developed a seemingly new problem. I could not start the engine, although it cranked well.
I bought an ignition spark tester and hooked it up between the spark plug wire cap and the (new) spark plug and it fired right up. There is a good spark in the 3/16" gap of the tester. Removing the spark tester and attaching the spark plug wire to the plug, it won't start (cranks well). I've gone back and forth many times and it starts well with the tester in the circuit and not at all with the spark plug wire hooked directly to the spark plug. The cap on the spark plug wire seats well on both of the new plugs I've tried. I measured the resistance between the cap spike (where it screws into the end of the spark plug wire itself) and the center electrode of the attached plug to be close to the 4000 K ohms value stamped on the side of the spark plug cap. So it seems to be that the increased resistance introduced by hooking up the ignition spark tester is somehow compensating for the problem preventing starting.
Could the problem be the ignition coil? I'm sure you all will have plenty of ideas, which I'd love to hear.
I bought an ignition spark tester and hooked it up between the spark plug wire cap and the (new) spark plug and it fired right up. There is a good spark in the 3/16" gap of the tester. Removing the spark tester and attaching the spark plug wire to the plug, it won't start (cranks well). I've gone back and forth many times and it starts well with the tester in the circuit and not at all with the spark plug wire hooked directly to the spark plug. The cap on the spark plug wire seats well on both of the new plugs I've tried. I measured the resistance between the cap spike (where it screws into the end of the spark plug wire itself) and the center electrode of the attached plug to be close to the 4000 K ohms value stamped on the side of the spark plug cap. So it seems to be that the increased resistance introduced by hooking up the ignition spark tester is somehow compensating for the problem preventing starting.
Could the problem be the ignition coil? I'm sure you all will have plenty of ideas, which I'd love to hear.