Export thread

exmark quest solinoid question

#1

K

kaju

2012 exmark quest will not start. battery is strong. I cleaned all terminals on battery and on solenoid. When I turn the key I get a strong click coming directly from the solenoid. I tried to cross the posts on the solenoid but it does not spark or turn the starter, As if there is no electricity coming from one post to the other. I do not have an amp meter but I do have a multi-tester. I get 12 volts from battery to post on battery side of the solenoid. I get 12 volts from solenoid on starter side when the key is turned. I am not a real mechanic. I know just enough to get me in trouble. but good enough to follow directions and fix it when I know exactly what is wrong. Please help


#2

B

bertsmobile1

:welcome:

Sounds like the stater is dead.
Take a jumper from the battery + lead around and touch it to the + terminal on the starter.
If their is no flash and the starter does not turn, it is shop and time for either a new starter of get it repaired at least.
So try that and get back to us.


#3

BlazNT

BlazNT

You need to jump the starter directly and see what happens. Lets hope it tries to start.

Im too slow. Bert beat me to it.


#4

K

kaju

I put a wire jumper on it. The started spun strong. I turned the key on and it spun a long time but didn't crank.
Now what☺


#5

B

bertsmobile1

BlazNT said:
You need to jump the starter directly and see what happens. Lets hope it tries to start.

Im too slow. Bert beat me to it.
Click to expand...

Because of the time difference.
You are making zzzzzzzzz while I am reading the forum over breakfast coffee.


#6

B

bertsmobile1

kaju said:
I put a wire jumper on it. The started spun strong. I turned the key on and it spun a long time but didn't crank.
Now what☺
Click to expand...

OK.
So the starter spun when jumped but the the engine did not start ?
Please be careful with your language as the words you use are the only information we get.
Cranking = spinning

Thus we are now confused as to what you are rying to tell us.
If you are saying that the starter spun when jumped but still did not when key was turned on then it is new solenoid time

If you are saying that the starter spun when jumped but the engine would not fire when you turned the ignition on that is a bit different.

I am going dwn ino the workshop now so Blaz can have a go till I come back up because I have to go :laughing:


#7

K

kaju

bertsmobile1 said:
OK.
So the starter spun when jumped but the the engine did not start ?
Please be careful with your language as the words you use are the only information we get.
Cranking = spinning

Thus we are now confused as to what you are rying to tell us.
If you are saying that the starter spun when jumped but still did not when key was turned on then it is new solenoid time

If you are saying that the starter spun when jumped but the engine would not fire when you turned the ignition on that is a bit different.

I am going dwn ino the workshop now so Blaz can have a go till I come back up because I have to go :laughing:
Click to expand...

Sorry. Let me clear this up. The wire jumper made the starter spin strongly. I did it again with the key on. The starter spun strong but the engine did not fire.
I hope that made it more clear and thank you for the help thus far


#8

BlazNT

BlazNT

Im going to bed. Will work on this in the AM.


#9

K

kaju

I'm sure it is a ground problem or a corroded connection somewhere. I just don't know where to begin to look.


#10

B

bertsmobile1

Gees look at this we have a real time world network, just like the computer geeks.

Crank the engine and check for a spark if there was none .
Now pull off the engine cover and find the thin black wire attached to the ignition coils.
Follow this back and if it goes to a single plug near the starter unplug it.
Crank the engine and check for a spark again.

Make sure all controls are in the correct position for running.

On the solenoid check for 12V at the small control wire.
Let Blaz know what your find, I am going to work in the plantation.


#11

BlazNT

BlazNT

Back to work.


#12

K

kaju

bertsmobile1 said:
Gees look at this we have a real time world network, just like the computer geeks.

Crank the engine and check for a spark if there was none .
Now pull off the engine cover and find the thin black wire attached to the ignition coils.
Follow this back and if it goes to a single plug near the starter unplug it.
Crank the engine and check for a spark again.

Make sure all controls are in the correct position for running.

On the solenoid check for 12V at the small control wire.
Let Blaz know what your find, I am going to work in the plantation.
Click to expand...

These mowers have a safety check built in that stops the coil from firing when something like this goes wrong. I am positive of this because that was a problem when I had to replace the brake module. Because the brake module was not working it stopped the ignition system from firing. When I replaced the brake module it started firing again. So I am already sure the coil is not firing. But if you still want me to do that I will.
With safety switches and modules and connectors all over the place I do not know where to begin to hunt the issue down. The mower was fine one minute and not the next minute. If it has a corroded connector somewhere that is causing it to not ground, how do you find that?


#13

BlazNT

BlazNT

Bert is telling you how to check if one of the safety devices is not working. Follow his instructions and it will get narrowed down to the faulty one. Report back with findings.


#14

K

kaju

Will do. it is raining here right now. As soon as I can Ill do as you ask


#15

BlazNT

BlazNT

We all know how frustrating it is to work on lawn mowers. We will get you through this.


#16

K

kaju

When you say check for spark I'm sure you meant at the spark plug. as far as the solenoid which wire is the small control wire

Attachments





#17

BlazNT

BlazNT

Green wire should be ground and Blue wire should be 12v with key in start position. Clean the solenoid off. I don't know how its not shorting out when you turn the key.


#18

K

kaju

bertsmobile1 said:
Gees look at this we have a real time world network, just like the computer geeks.

Crank the engine and check for a spark if there was none .
Now pull off the engine cover and find the thin black wire attached to the ignition coils.
Follow this back and if it goes to a single plug near the starter unplug it.
Crank the engine and check for a spark again.

Make sure all controls are in the correct position for running.

On the solenoid check for 12V at the small control wire.
Let Blaz know what your find, I am going to work in the plantation.
Click to expand...

I pulled the spark plug and cranked the engine and there was no spark while it was grounded to the engine. I pulled the cover and found the black wire coming from the ignition coils. I unplugged it and cranked it and there was no spark. I pulled the blue wire from the solenoid and with the key in the crank position I read 11 volts on my multi-tester.


#19

K

kaju

Hello?!!! Anyone there?


#20

B

bertsmobile1

Well that is really bad news.
Double check the air gap from the coils to the flywheel and check for spark when cranking again.
NO spark with the earth wire disconnected means the module is gone and they are not cheap so worth the double check


#21

K

kaju

bertsmobile1 said:
Well that is really bad news.
Double check the air gap from the coils to the flywheel and check for spark when cranking again.
NO spark with the earth wire disconnected means the module is gone and they are not cheap so worth the double check
Click to expand...

This is a case when you need three hands. I double checked it I had someone else hold the wire while I ran the jumper form battery to starter. When I done so the engine fired up. the engine started running. as it was running I could see the spark from wire to a ground. I turned the key off and hooked the wire back up. tried to start the engine again and got just a click. When I tried again with the coil wire unhooked turned the key just a click but with the jumper wire from battery to starter the engine would not fire if the wire was grounded. but with the wire not grounded it would not fire and run. I turned the key off.


#22

B

bertsmobile1

Which wire , what wire where ?
No need to turn the key, just run your jumpers to the starter motor to spin the engine.
Make sure you are pulling the correct wires off the ignition coils.
The two wires from the coils should come together at a plug then go on to another plug to hook up with the tractor wiring.
Invest in a pair of inline spark testers, leave the plugs in and the testers hooked up so you only need one pair of hands.


#23

K

kaju

bertsmobile1 said:
Which wire , what wire where ?
No need to turn the key, just run your jumpers to the starter motor to spin the engine.
Make sure you are pulling the correct wires off the ignition coils.
The two wires from the coils should come together at a plug then go on to another plug to hook up with the tractor wiring.
Invest in a pair of inline spark testers, leave the plugs in and the testers hooked up so you only need one pair of hands.
Click to expand...

OH boy. please excuse me. I am so sorry for the confusion. the wire I pulled was the wire that came together from the two coils. it had a plug close to the starter. I pulled that plug and tested it for a spark. When the wire I spoke of in the previous sentence was not grounded or connected to anything I jumped the starter with a and the engine fired up and was running. then grounded the coil wire and seen a spark. I turned the key off. left the coil wire grounded and the starter cranked (spun ) but the engine did not fire. I then hooked everything back up and here I am now.


#24

B

bertsmobile1

OK, the wire you disconnected is the kill wire and it completes a circuit to ground so you should see a spark if you disconnect or reconnect the wire with the engine running.
The fact that the emgine started with this wire disconnected tells you the ignition modules are fine and you have a problem in the tractor wiring.
there are 4 circuits that will earth out that wire and kill the engine.
1) ignition switch
2 ) Brake + motion controls
3) bake + seat switch
4) Pto switch + seat switch

All of the above work through the engine kill relay so make that your first item to check.

Now before we got to confusing details.
how confidant are you with electrickery and what electric tools do you have on hand.


#25

K

kaju

bertsmobile1 said:
OK, the wire you disconnected is the kill wire and it completes a circuit to ground so you should see a spark if you disconnect or reconnect the wire with the engine running.
The fact that the emgine started with this wire disconnected tells you the ignition modules are fine and you have a problem in the tractor wiring.
there are 4 circuits that will earth out that wire and kill the engine.
1) ignition switch
2 ) Brake + motion controls
3) bake + seat switch
4) Pto switch + seat switch

All of the above work through the engine kill relay so make that your first item to check.

Now before we got to confusing details.
how confidant are you with electrickery and what electric tools do you have on hand.
Click to expand...

I have a strong working knowledge of A/C electricity and a novice knowledge of D/C electricity. I can follow directions pretty good. Lets say I am medium confident with electrickery. I have a multi tester on hand. I replaced the brake module last month. so It should be good.


Footer Links 1

Top