Changed carb on my Craftsman 6.5 Hp Wheel Trimmer (143.996516) . I also installed new ground wire and gov. link with new extension spring. After multiple adjustments (it was reeving at 4600 RPM at idle and full throttle) I got the RPM down to 3400 at idle by adjusting the Idle Restrictor Screw on the carb.
Here is the problem that I can't get a correct fix on. When I push the Throttle down to shut Trimmer off, it reeves up to 4400 RPM and will not shut down ( I need to pull Plug Wire off Spark Plug to stop.
This is a Tecumseh Lev 120 Specs 361047B
Got me baffled, any help would be much appreciated.
Got a much better understanding from the manual you sent,thanks. I am still not there yet. When I start up, the only way to make the High Speed Position Hole match up is to move the Throttle Control away from start position and up towards idle around a third of the way. Idle speed (Throttle up)at around 3400 and does not shut off. The rpm at full throttle is still high (4400-4800). I will enclose pics. Thank you so much for your time and stay safe out there.
Looks like you have the linkages hooked up properly, but I can see under the control plate to make sure. I’m going to ask a few questions, which you may have done, but I’m not there to see. Did you adjust the static governor lever according to the procedure stated in the manual? Have you tried adjusting the high speed screw on the underside of the control plate? Could you have install the throttle cable in backwards, so that it is opening the throttle, not closing when you move the handle control to idle/stop position? When you go to the stop position does the control arm (under the control plate) come into contact with the shut off switch? Pages 26-33 in the manual talk about what I’m asking.
I have attached pics. of the underside of control plate in idle position and Full throttle position. Yes I did adjust the static governor lever according to the procedure stated in the manual. Do not see high speed screw on the underside of the control plate you stated.. The only adjusting screw I see in the throttle stop screw on carb. Throttle cable is closing the throttle with handle control in idle/stop position. there is no contact with the shut off switch, its like a 1/6 " away from touching the "J" shaped wire.
It seems like everything is in order. The Governor linkage springs back at full throttle and is loose at idle.
When I try to back off the full throttle because or the high rpm and slowly go up to the idle position, the engine starts to flutter like it wants to back fire at the lower rpm.
As you can see from pics, the throttle cable has some bends in it. Not sure if this is part of the problem. I have ordered a new cable anyway.
Thanks again, Bob
First, loosen those two screws on the control plate and move the plate to get the lever to contact the shut off arm. Second, I’m think by your description you may have adjusted the governor the wrong way. Double check how you did it, against the manual, and make sure the throttle plate is wide open and you are turning the governor shaft in the correct direction. Then tighten the clamp nut.
Put on new cable and made all your suggested adjustments. Unfortunately no change. Still starts up at full throttle at real high RPM 4200-4800. I start pulling up the throttle towards idle,get it to sit at 3400 while it warms up. Once I head up to total idle engine putters and shuts off.
Is it possible that the new carb I installed is defective?
Thanks again, Bob
No, just had to be out of town for awhile. Do you have the correct throttle cable? Your pic number one shows the throttle in the fast position, but the other pics show the control in the stop position.
Yes, it is the right cable, (part # 740194MA) that I installed after those pictures were taken. As far as cable position goes all adjustments you and the manual suggested were made with the throttle down in full throttle position.
Not sure if you read my question in last post. Is it possible that the new carb that I installed at the beginning of all this is defective in some way?
Thanks, Bob
Yes, it asked if I had given up on you. You say you have a new cable, when you push the control handle all the way forward as in pic #1, is the control down by the carb all the way forward as in pic #2&4? Second question, on your new cable, is stop when you pull it back or push it forward?
Lol. The question I was referring to, was about the possibility of the new carb being defective,not you giving up on me. Answer #1 The old cable throttle control picture was just that, a picture to show you type of control. It was in a pull back (up) position. But with that said, the answer is yes.
Answer #2 Stop is when I pull back (up) on throttle control.
Going to enclose new pics. of setup as we stand now with new throttle control.
Pic (#1) will be with throttle control pulled back (up) position followed by pic (#2) of cable position down by
carb linkage.
Pic (#3) will be of throttle control pushed down in the start position followed by pic (#4) of cable position down by carb linkage. Pic (#5) of gov. linkage.
Thanks, Bob
Those pics look better to me. You said you set the governor following the instructions on page 27 and the high and low speeds following the instructions on page 29. Did you set the governor first, and then the speed?
Yes, I did the governor first and then the Speed. I just took another look at the manual (page 27 & 29). I will retrace my steps on the machine again tomorrow.
The one problem that I am not able to correct is .Fig 12 on page 29. Not sure what they mean by choke actuating lever.The only hole on the control plate is nowhere close to align it with the choke lever if that is what they mean.
Thanks,Bob
Had my brain in my ass. I thought it was saying to do both 12&13.
Retraced all the steps today to no avail. I put throttle control in the stop position,than loosened the screw on the governor clamp,held the clamp all the way to the left while pushing governor lever to left to open full throttle position and tightened screw in position (pic).
Next step, I aligned high speed pin position holes by moving throttle control up towards idle (it took a few clicks up towards stop position to align). Moved High speed tab to the left to decrease speed (pic). I changed positions a few times on the high speed tab, ran the same high rpm at all positions.
Thanks, Bob
Sorry I’m at a loss here and because I’m not there I don’t know what to tell you. If you have followed those directions, the only thing i can think of is that you may have an Internet problem. Only thing I can’t see, is the governor link, the one with the spring, going to the throttle control on the carb and the solid link going to the control plate? Just another thought. When you set the governor, did you twist the governor shaft in the same direction (CCW) as you pushed the arm and opened the throttle, before tightening the screw?
Thanks for your time, it is most appreciated.
Yes I did twist governor shaft in the same direction (CCW) as I pushed the arm to open the throttle before tightening screw again. For the sake of a clear mind can you just give me a last reply as to if the linkage set up is all correct. Pics. Would you happen to know what full and low RPM should be. I am thinking 3100-3600
Thanks again, Bob
Unless I’m missing something everything looks correct to me. On these type of units I normally set my low end RPM’s at 1800 and high end at 3200. If you have anything else to ask, please do so. Worst answer I can give you is I DON’T KNOW.
If you push on the gov arm with it running, does it resist? Or just move easily, with the only tension being from the spring from the throttle? The gov basically pulls back against spring tension to hold back the throttle plate as speed comes up, settling at a point of equilibrium (advancing the throttle puts on more spring tension, causing the gov to balance at a higher rpm. If the speed slows, the gov holds back less, the throttle plate opens, and it comes back up to speed and so forth). If the gov has failed internally, it can't hold back, and the tendency will be to overspeed. Changing a gov is not that bad, but will require opening the engine case if needed.
