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Engine swap, splicing into existing connector?

#1

J

jbmortensen

I am putting a new Loncin engine into an old craftsman rider. I found the wiring diagram for the harness on the engine, but I am wondering how to best make the physical connections. Is it possible to find a mating connector to this? Or do I just cut it off and spice using crimps? What are your thoughts?

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#2

StarTech

StarTech

The mating housing is Molex 50-84-1060. Can't tell if the current has all sockets, all pins, or mixed but these comes separate and require an open barrel crimper.


#3

J

jbmortensen

Thanks. So based on this blow up image, what would I need to put in the mating connector? Pins?

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#4

StarTech

StarTech

Appears to be all sockets so you need the pins (male terminals).
1684525669197.png


#5

B

bertsmobile1

Nd what ever you decide, do not crimp the wires together .
The plug is there for a reason
And before you try & start the mower remove the blower housing and then the magneto kill wire
Start the engine and check that the kill wire never shows any voltage or you will fry it
Easy to mix up wires and have the carn solenoid crossed with the kill wire .


#6

J

jbmortensen

Nd what ever you decide, do not crimp the wires together .
The plug is there for a reason
And before you try & start the mower remove the blower housing and then the magneto kill wire
Start the engine and check that the kill wire never shows any voltage or you will fry it
Easy to mix up wires and have the carn solenoid crossed with the kill wire .
Great advice. That kill wire is always no voltage until the switch is turned off?


#7

B

bertsmobile1

Kill wire is a ground wire
No ground = engine runs
Ground = engine off
Some people have trouble getting their heads around that
The kill wire is connected to a little circuit that replaces the points
If that circuit ever sees any + voltage it is blown & the coil is trash
Some cheap Multi meters can in fact blow the circuit


#8

J

jbmortensen

Question about the big picture.
I am going to delete the plunger from the carb solenoid valve. That leaves the kill wire and two "red" wires that I need to connect to.

1685047594084.png

The old engine looks like the following:
1685047741134.png
The DC on this is white and red. However, the two wires on the new motor are both red and pin out says DC(+)?! Shouldn't one be negative? I'm confused!


#9

J

jbmortensen

Also,
I believe this is the fuel shutoff solenoid, but have never seen in a side to side orientation...usually at the bottom of the float bowl vertically. I am going to cut off the plunger, but it looks different than the others I have seen?
1685124291358.png


#10

S

slomo

Since this is on a high vibrational device with extreme conditions, I would butt connect with crimp and seal connectors and call it a day. Unless you are looking at removing this connector on say a daily basis?? No need to find slash order pins and such drama.


#11

S

slomo

Also,
I believe this is the fuel shutoff solenoid, but have never seen in a side to side orientation...usually at the bottom of the float bowl vertically. I am going to cut off the plunger, but it looks different than the others I have seen?
View attachment 64678
That is the main jet anti back-fire solenoid all right.


#12

S

slomo

Yellow wire is battery voltage.
Engine stopping is a ground.
2 red wires are both DC voltage.


#13

J

jbmortensen

Yellow wire is battery voltage.
Engine stopping is a ground.
2 red wires are both DC voltage.
Why two red wires? Why not one? Are the two wires there to provide more current? Could I just hook up one of them?


#14

J

jbmortensen

That is the main jet anti back-fire solenoid all right.
Thanks for the sanity check...I am going to cut it off...backfires are fun!


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