Engine Swap - Help with Charging

[MeatballG]

I picked up an older B&S 19.5hp twin “Turbo Cool” to swap onto a Cub Cadet LTX 1045. All is well so far, and I’m happy with the power and smoothness—more so than the (tired) Kohler 20hp that was replaced.

My Question: The new motor has a 3 wire connector with a kill wire, a wire outputting 14V AC, and a red wire (with a diode in series) that outputs 30-40V DC at roughly 3000rpm. I don’t have a voltage regulator yet for this setup, so what will I need to get in order to arrive at a charging voltage of 13-14V DC for the starting battery?

 

[MeatballG]

New engine model and type: 42E707 2631 E1

 

[StarTech]

Dual Circuit Stator
Briggs 790292 J&N 230-22148

 

[Auto Doc's]

New engine model and type: 42E707 2631 E1

Hello M.,

StarTech found what you need to make this work. For some reason I was thinking these did not need a regulator.

 

[StarTech]

Hello M.,

StarTech found what you need to make this work. For some reason I was thinking these did not need a regulator.

Normally the battery provides the necessary load to bring down the peak voltage. Most likely the OP is seeing the open circuit peak voltage not the average load voltage. I have never checked the open circuit voltage of these dual circuit stators. Briggs only specs the amp rating of the DC side.

 

[MeatballG]

Dual Circuit Stator
Briggs 790292 J&N 230-22148
View attachment 72328

Thanks! What are the connections that need to be made then, with this regulator? What goes where? Is it red DC from alternator into red on regulator, then regulated voltage out on yellow wire?

 

[StarTech]

Unless some idiot has cut the end off the stator wires it should self explanatory. That would be the plug and play setup. But just in case. The stator normally would a two wire male terminal setup into a two wire female terminal setup. If present it is simply disconnect and install the regulator.

If they did remove the terminal then it is the yellow wire with the female terminal that goes to the red wire with the diode in it coming from the stator.

Either way make sure the regulator case is grounded to the engine's crankcase.

 

[MeatballG]

Good deal, thanks again.

Yep, I do have the connector on the stator wires still. On mine, that two pin connector goes into a 3-pin connector that incorporates the kill wire too.

 

[StarTech]

As I said its self explanatory. Only connects one way.