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You all were instrumental in my successfully tapping and reaming a new spark plug hole. I was able to mow the lawn twice with absolutely no issues, but I was just finishing up the lawn yesterday, and the lawnmower just quit 9/10ths of the way thru. I was hoping for some additional help as I'm simply not very versed in this kind of stuff.

Its a Tecumseh LV195XA, spec 362089E, D.O.M. 07074GG1785, FAM: 7TPSK.196BC, off a Toro 22" Recycler.

So, after reaming a new spark plug hole, of course, I installed a new spark plug. It seems to me that since it is the only new part, and the chances of any other part failing so shortly after my spark plug issue seems remote, the spark plug is the problem. What are the chances a new one went bad this quickly? I took the spark plug out of the hole, taped it where I could see it, shut off the lights so it was very dark, and pulled the cord, but couldn't see, nor hear, a spark. I don't know how obvious a spark should have been, but thought it would be obvious. Is there another simple way to test a spark plug?

It doesn't seem like taking the spark plug wire cap off and putting it on the spark plug should have loosened it to the point the connection isn't made, but is that a real possibility? The connection seems tight, and even "clicks" when I put the wire on the spark plug.

Today, I pressed the primer bulb a few times and tried to start it, unsuccessfully. I unscrewed the spark plug, and it seems completely dry.

If the spark should have been obvious, then what's the likelihood of the wire being bad? Or the connection between the wire and spark plug? Or the coil? Where should I go from here?

Of course, if the spark isn't necessarily obvious, that brings up some other possibilities. My engine brake cable has some play. Didn't seem to be an issue before this. Is there any way to tighten it, or do I need to replace it?

My fuel is good, less than 2 weeks old.

Also, after I reamed a new spark plug hole, I changed out the oil, ran it for a few minutes, then changed the oil out again to endure there were no metal bits in the engine. When I pull on the starter cord, it still feels like there is good compression, as it isn't any harder or easier to pull.

Thanks in advance for all your help!

You did have the spark plug grounded to the engine block when you were checking for spark, correct?

No, no I didn't. How would I do that?

The metal of the spark plug, the tip or the threads must be touching, preferably the engine block, for a good ground so the spark will jump the gap.

There is no where I can hold or tape it to the engine block where I can see it when I pull the starter cord. I tried taping it to the engine block and listening for the "snapsnapsnap" sound as it sparks, but I couldn't hear anything. Next, I cut the cord off an old lamp I wasn't using, stripped both ends, and wound one end around the metal on the plug, and taped the other end to the engine block so I could move the plug where I might be able to see the spark, but I still didn't see a spark or hear it. I don't know if using a jumper like that would work, but it seemed like something to try.

jquack said:

There is no where I can hold or tape it to the engine block where I can see it when I pull the starter cord. I tried taping it to the engine block and listening for the "snapsnapsnap" sound as it sparks, but I couldn't hear anything. Next, I cut the cord off an old lamp I wasn't using, stripped both ends, and wound one end around the metal on the plug, and taped the other end to the engine block so I could move the plug where I might be able to see the spark, but I still didn't see a spark or hear it. I don't know if using a jumper like that would work, but it seemed like something to try.

Click to expand...

Tape?? Lamp cord?

Do it like the picture shows.




slomo

I can't pull the starter cord while holding the spark plug against the engine with any real force, which is why I used the tape and lamp cord. How hard do you have to pull the cord to get a spark? Or do you have to pull the cord a certain distance, but not necessarily hard?

When I did hold the spark plug against the engine and pull, again, with very little force, there was no spark, but I'm not sure if that means anything if I didn't pull it hard enough.

Thanks for your patience and help

You have to pull fairly hard to make the engine spin over to generate spark. Good quick pulls.

slomo

you have to pull it just like you would when you start it...
if you have an auto parts store near by, they should sell a spark tester.
I like this one because it's easier to see, but i prefer ones where the spark actually has to jump a gap so you know it's a good strong spark

Scrubcadet10 said:

you have to pull it just like you would when you start it...
if you have an auto parts store near by, they should sell a spark tester.

Amazon.com: Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester: Automotive

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I like this one because it's easier to see, but i prefer ones where the spark actually has to jump a gap so you know it's a good strong spark

Click to expand...

Those light jobs "show" spark only. They can't put a load on the coil like the PET-4000 can and the others with the bolt that screw in and out. You need a 6mm or roughly 1/4" gap to test with. Great video here explaining it. Just like electrical circuits, need to have a load to test properly.


slomo

which is why i said i prefer the ones where the spark actually has to jump a gap.

That will obviously work, but cutting up a lamp cord makes me realize I have lost sight of the bigger picture. Instead of a spark tester, in order to see if the spark plug is any good, all I really need to do is buy a new spark plug. If it doesn't work, I will get the spark tester, too, and let you know the results.

This is why we use various types of plug in spark testers.
The red ones are a lot easier to see but all they tell you is a spark is being generated .
The 3 point or sliding electrode type test the quality of the spark but are harder to see
When I get caught out without mine , usually because I left it behind on some ones mower, my next trick is to clamp a lock jaw plier onto the engine then force the threaded end of the plug through the handle