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John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

Pull the kill wire off the coil
If the problem remains the coil is bad
If the problem vanishes the wiring is faulty

Thanks I will try that .

What is the engine model and type?

shadetree#1 said:

What is the engine model and type?

Click to expand...

Model 31P677
Type 0132 B1
Code 071008ZD
Got it running but now it stalls when I engage the blades. Will not start again until it cools down.

Has symptoms of the electronic possibly failing in the magneto. (if it's not the spark plug)
You can find a magneto for less than $20. If it turns out to not be the magneto, you need a spare anyway, because they are prone to failure eventually.
Be careful and keep a heads up when loosening the two magneto 5/16 headed screws, they can twist off and both are needed I take a small hammer and give them each a few light taps to free the steel screws threads in the aluminum block. You can watch a you tube video about such.

Set the air gap at .010.

do the simple stuff first. change the plugs.

also: how did you check for no-spark?

It's possible that it's running rich which is why it starts and runs good cold. if so buy a cheap carb on ebay.

I have come across this a few times. 1) ensure that the ground wires are secure and are making contact. It usually has a bolt going through an eye let at the back of the engine on the frame, and 2) if you have a pull switch to activate the blades, make sure that the loom part is pushed all the way onto the switch. These models have been known for the plastic plug with the wires vibrating apart. And 3) your ignition switch-is it in good condition. I have had it where the ignition switch breaks on the inside and as soon as it has power going through it, the tang inside grounds out the coil circuit.

You can also check the effective ground between the coil and the engine mounting point. also, clean both the coil contact point where it contacts the engine and the same place on the engine side. Make sure the coil is tight to the engine with good groud between. Do Not over tighten the mounting screws, you can damage the mounting bosses. Use a business card to set the gap between the coil and flywheel magnets after reattaching the coil.

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

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If the spark is going away after 5 minutes(or motor warming up) then consider the coil being a problem. Coils that are failing with sometime work when cold but stop working when hot.

Your coil has either a hot open or hot short. What do I mean? The coil heats up during normal operation, but after they age the windings may either short to ground or breakdown. After it cools down they will return to their normal position and you can start the unit again and it will run until it gets hot again. Solution, replace the magneto. Should be part number 595304, but double check with your dealer before ordering.

Another possible issue is higher load starvation. Fuel flow limited. Could be the cause of a sticky fuel anti after fire solenoid, the electric device on the bottom of the carb. It shuts fuel off with the key off. If it does not move fully, it can starve the engine. Also a sticky needle and seat in carb float will do the same.

Make sure your gas cap is venting properly. Loosen the cap and see if it runs past your problematic 5 minute mark.

jshep1102 said:

Make sure your gas cap is venting properly. Loosen the cap and see if it runs past your problematic 5 minute mark.

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This is a very good point. Although I'm leaning towards an ignition coil issue in this situation, I will say that those cap vents can be a problem. Usually the engine runs approximately 10-20 minutes if the vent is clogged. That's usually how long it takes the vacuum in the tank to overtake the fuel pump. This is true with any fuel cap that has a vent hole. I have seen the holes get plugged with dirt from folks wiping the cap before fueling or by wax from folks waxing their machines after washing.

Do yourself a favor and buy a inline spark tester at harbor freight.Its probably your coil.Very common for a coil to give spark until it warms up when they go bad

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

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Likely a cracked coil. When it gets hot the crack widens, and you lose spark. Replace with a known good coil.

As others have suggested, try the sparkplug 1st, even new ones can be defective, if problem persists, put in a new ignition coil. A failing coil will fire until it warms up, then stops. After it cools the engine will run again until it gets warm.

Hello: I had the exact same problem with my Deere... Replace the coil....

regeland said:

Model 31P677
Type 0132 B1
Code 071008ZD
Got it running but now it stalls when I engage the blades. Will not start again until it cools down.

Click to expand...

Sounds like valve clearance is too small. I adjust it .001" looser so it takes longer between adjusts.

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

Click to expand...

It is a long shot but easy to check: At the bottom of the engine block there is a grounding bolt. This sometimes comes lose and if it does, you have intermittent spark .
Had this problem on mine, It would stall out like yours. Replaced the battery 2x before I figured out it was the ground wire and tightened the bolt.
Never a problem after that.

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

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Check the plug wire. A lot of them are carbon track core meaning there is a carbon coated string in the center. If the cap is mis-crimped on the string over time it becomes unreliable and just stops conducting. Had this issue with a Kawasaki vertical twin. One side was intermittent then just quit. Replaced the cap with a screw on NGK replacement. LB01EP

Hia
Had a similar problem a few years ago, tracked it down finally to the coil.
Then proved it by heating the coil up with my hot air gun (paint stripping air gun). When the coil had time to cool , the mower started faultlessly and ran for ages. I was told it was most likely condensation.
Whatever the reason, replacing the coil sorted the problem.
Hope you manage to resolve the issue quickly.

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

Click to expand...

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

Click to expand...

Have had

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

Click to expand...

This happens sometimes when the Low Oil Level safety triggers

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

Click to expand...

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

Click to expand...

Have had a couple bad coils. Intermittently would warm up and short out. It was awful to troubleshoot. But that’s what it was. Good luck!

Your magneto is bad. When it gets hot it breaks down. A fairly simple fix. Get your Model, Type, and Code information and go to Amazon. The part should be under $40 even if you want the genuine factory article or about $20 for a Chinese knock-off that will probably do just as well. The replacement is an easy afternoon job for anyone with a basic tool set. I don't remember the exact specification, but you'll want to be pretty careful setting the air gap. It's been a couple of decades since I shut the shop down. Should be available with a Google search as long as you have the Model, Type, and Code number.

like most said...change the plug first...clean the grounding surfaces between the coil and the engine mount...id also test the coil resistance...positive to the plug boot and neg to the external metal fork of the coil...resistance ohms should be between 2.5k to 5k ohms...anything above or below this range is bad ....

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ said:

Another possible issue is higher load starvation. Fuel flow limited. Could be the cause of a sticky fuel anti after fire solenoid, the electric device on the bottom of the carb. It shuts fuel off with the key off. If it does not move fully, it can starve the engine. Also a sticky needle and seat in carb float will do the same.

Click to expand...

AND it could be as simple as the gas cap can't breath as well. The carbs are cheap and easy to replace. I'd try it with the gas cap loose first and if that doesn't fix it buy a new carb. Then from now on at the very least add StaBil at the 2 year rate to ALL your gas and preferably run ethanol free.

My bet is one of these two things will fix it!

It's more than likely your coil is overheating which may be due to a mouse nest blocking air flow to cool the engine. If that's the case and you clean it out, the problem might go away. But the heat damage to the coil may require replacement.

Smokindog said:

AND it could be as simple as the gas cap can't breath as well. The carbs are cheap and easy to replace. I'd try it with the gas cap loose first and if that doesn't fix it buy a new carb. Then from now on at the very least add StaBil at the 2 year rate to ALL your gas and preferably run ethanol free.

My bet is one of these two things will fix it!

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if the engine runs for 5 minutes then dies after heating up...the carb is fine...the coil or grounding is an issue along with a possible gas cap vent issue...if you test the coil resistance and its good...gounding or gas cap is an issue. .if the engine stopping is an inconsistant time then debris in the carb...fuel line...or gas cap vent is a issue...

Does a John deer even have a magneto? Does it fly? As others said it’s probably your coil an easy quick check with a $5 spark check tool. Someone mentioned putting a meter on it to check ohm but you might not get a bad reading with an intermittent coil issue. Start simple, obvious, easy and cheap.

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

Click to expand...

Sounds like the coil is breaking down after it heats up, I had that problem once could not figure out the problem, I called my brother in law that lived 500 miles away told him about it he said change the coil and wire sure enough that fixed it

Sounds like the coil or Magneto for whatever kind of electrical system that's on it is breaking down after it warms up needs replaced

Bertrrr said:

This happens sometimes when the Low Oil Level safety triggers

Click to expand...

Quite true but not on a LA because they don't have one

skiman said:

if the engine runs for 5 minutes then dies after heating up...the carb is fine...the coil or grounding is an issue along with a possible gas cap vent issue...if you test the coil resistance and its good...gounding or gas cap is an issue. .if the engine stopping is an inconsistant time then debris in the carb...fuel line...or gas cap vent is a issue...

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IT all depends upon HOW it dies
A dead stop will be electrical
A gradual stop with a bit of surging will be insufficient fuel from a partial blockage
This is why we ask questions like how does it stop ?

While it is nice of all of you to throw suggestions it is best to gather all the FACTS you need before trying to make a diagnosis and when a possibility is thrown at the poster, give them a test to confirm or revoke that possibility
Otherwise the poster ends up doing a whole lot of unnecessary things which may or may not make things worse or break things that that were not broken in the first place .

I tried to stay out of this thread because there were plenty of good willed people happy to help .
However we are 5 pages into the post and yet to do a DIAGNOSIS which is where you should be starting .

So the instant the mower stops the spark should be tested
I use an inline red test light for no other reason that they are easy to see in the daylight.
This does not confirm that the plug is firing but it rules in or out a failing coil .
The other diagnostic tool is a can of carb cleaner, if a short shot down the carb the instant the engine stops makes the engine fire and you can keep it running by repeating the process then that rules out the coil and rules in the fuel system.

I

doug9694 said:

Sounds like valve clearance is too small. I adjust it .001" looser so it takes longer between adjusts.

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Not on this or any Briggs OHV engines.
They do not wear tight like a valve in block engine.
They wear loose and they will always be really looser than specs when you check one that's not been adjusted in a while.
You should adjust these to the tight side of the specs .004 intake even tight .004 and .005 - .006 exhaust..
The intake needs to be tight so the ACR works as well as it can where the exhaust is safer when it's loose for cooling the hotter valve and on a 31xxxx or 33xxxx series eng the exhaust has no affect on acr or cranking.

bertsmobile1 said:

Quite true but not on a LA because they don't have one

IT all depends upon HOW it dies
A dead stop will be electrical
A gradual stop with a bit of surging will be insufficient fuel from a partial blockage
This is why we ask questions like how does it stop ?

While it is nice of all of you to throw suggestions it is best to gather all the FACTS you need before trying to make a diagnosis and when a possibility is thrown at the poster, give them a test to confirm or revoke that possibility
Otherwise the poster ends up doing a whole lot of unnecessary things which may or may not make things worse or break things that that were not broken in the first place .

I tried to stay out of this thread because there were plenty of good willed people happy to help .
However we are 5 pages into the post and yet to do a DIAGNOSIS which is where you should be starting .

So the instant the mower stops the spark should be tested
I use an inline red test light for no other reason that they are easy to see in the daylight.
This does not confirm that the plug is firing but it rules in or out a failing coil .
The other diagnostic tool is a can of carb cleaner, if a short shot down the carb the instant the engine stops makes the engine fire and you can keep it running by repeating the process then that rules out the coil and rules in the fuel system.

I

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I agree. A lot of people who aren't techs just throwing out ideas or what they have had happen in the past.
That usually results in throwing parts at it and it's bad practice.

Wait until it dies and instantly check for spark. If no spark 95% chance it's a coil and don't buy from local dealer unless you want to pay a lot. Online aftermarket ones are fine and cheap.
The other 5% are chewed wires grounding out (just had a snowblower tonight like this) or kill switch messed up and in "kill" mode all the time.

Dpmulvan said:

Does a John deer even have a magneto? Does it fly? As others said it’s probably your coil an easy quick check with a $5 spark check tool. Someone mentioned putting a meter on it to check ohm but you might not get a bad reading with an intermittent coil issue. Start simple, obvious, easy and cheap.

Click to expand...

ive checked literally hundreds of coils this way over time...if it reads between 2.5K and 5k ohms...its good...outside this range is bad...worked every time...outside the lower and upper limits has identified if the coil is bad every time without exception...been doing this for almost 50 years...

Modern magneto coils have a timing chip inside since around 1990 when Atom Industries patient ran out
You can not test the primary coils because the chip is in the way
It works for car coils,
It works for coils that have points
It does not work for coils that have embeded chips
As coils ( called armatures when the embed a 10¢ the charge $ 50 ) are not repairable the only test worth doing is to remove the kill wire to ensure the coil is the problem & not the stop switch or any safety switch .
This is a forum for serious repairs not for spreading old wives tales & urban myths, that is what Face book & twitter is for .

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

Click to expand...

I had a mower do this one time, the gas tank had some bugs and rubber from the gas cap, blocking the gas flow to the carb. I removed the tank, cleaned it out and it's been running since.

bertsmobile1 said:

Modern magneto coils have a timing chip inside since around 1990 when Atom Industries patient ran out
You can not test the primary coils because the chip is in the way
It works for car coils,
It works for coils that have points
It does not work for coils that have embeded chips
As coils ( called armatures when the embed a 10¢ the charge $ 50 ) are not repairable the only test worth doing is to remove the kill wire to ensure the coil is the problem & not the stop switch or any safety switch .
This is a forum for serious repairs not for spreading old wives tales & urban myths, that is what Face book & twitter is for .

Click to expand...

Absolutely true! The problem is a lot of people on here think they're one or even 50 experiences from 1965 to 19 91 are indicative of everything that exists in the world today.
There is really no such thing as a good or bad coil from one test!
Even one, even old school one, that testified can easily break down in 10 to 15 minutes and do what so many coils do and then be fine once they cool off again..
There are even coils, even on small weed eater style engines that can mess up and the internal timing gets screwed up. There was a recall that Stihl had on this for they would start and run but wouldn't run well at all or rev up to have the power they should..
Just a few years ago I saw a rash of the old Kohler command coils going out on the singles which were very prominent up until around 2003.
It was just the fact that these things were becoming 20 years old and all the years of heat, cracks and moisture etc was taking its toll.
They would have spark and would run a little bit or for a while but some wouldn't even start. When you watch them spark or on a test or whatever you would see that about every two and a half to three and a half hits they would be no spark.
In these cases you might get an ohm test that works okay but there are just too many times when something will check perfectly in a static test or at a cool temperature but in actual use will break down quickly.
So there's really little point in troubleshooting that way. Get it to mess up and diagnose it then.

pay1920 said:

I had a mower do this one time, the gas tank had some bugs and rubber from the gas cap, blocking the gas flow to the carb. I removed the tank, cleaned it out and it's been running since.

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Very true that this can happen but we should always diagnose our problems before we waste time and money on repairs that may not be the problem.
People with a decent amount of experience with engines can usually tell whether one is a fuel or ignition issue when it dies. Ignition is usually abruptly like you turn the key off or sometimes we'll have a few crisp stutters or pops but it will be different than fuel starvation issue where it will more slowly lose power and get weak before it shuts off.
For the past 10 years or so, maybe longer, most of the problems are fuel related for whatever reason.
Could be gas tank, fuel lines, blockages, carburetor solenoids, debris and floating stuff in the carburetor, restricted Jets etc but it's far more common than ignition.
The go-to even today is still to try a new spark plug which is just a waste of time 95 plus percent of the time.
The most efficient way to start a diagnosis is to give it an external fuel source or more fuel.
You will often find that when one starts to mess up if you add choke quickly maybe not full choke but half to three quarter choke but some type of choke amount that if it starts to smooth out for at least a couple of seconds then you can guarantee it's a fuel issue.
Then you can do things like the easiest first of popping the fuel line off the carburetor to see if you have good flow sometimes having to crank it if you have a fuel pump or pulsator pump.
Then you can remove the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb and simply hold your finger on it if you have to to see if that solves the problem because it does a decent percentage of the time. Then you can either replace it fix it or whatever.
You should also try the the easiest fix when it is the problem of checking the fuel cap fit. I have found so many with a big chunk of dirt colored dust packed in there that you can literally suck out if you suck on them with your mouth and it's like a hard pebble.
You can use a small wire or air compressor blow gun tip to clear them out just don't blow the cap apart but usually you're okay.
I had an stx38 a few years ago that somebody brought me that wasn't getting enough fuel through the fuel line so the car bowl level was getting low. I found three ladybugs hiding down the fuel line.
They had probably been in there for years but the tank looked pretty clean. When I got around to blowing backwards on the fuel line the ladybugs and some other crap blew up into the gas tank.
I also had a Cub cadet zero turn that had so much grass that had worked its way down into the fuel line about 2 in past the exit point of the tank that it would start for fuel and not stay running with the blades on under load.
Even though these tanks are supposed to have a strainer or whatever it doesn't mean it always works. And both of these instances it was a very quick easy fix once you do what the problem was..
Luckily I diagnosed it quickly by pulling the fuel line off of the carburetor and found it was very much reduced flow.

bertsmobile1 said:

Modern magneto coils have a timing chip inside since around 1990 when Atom Industries patient ran out
You can not test the primary coils because the chip is in the way
It works for car coils,
It works for coils that have points
It does not work for coils that have embeded chips
As coils ( called armatures when the embed a 10¢ the charge $ 50 ) are not repairable the only test worth doing is to remove the kill wire to ensure the coil is the problem & not the stop switch or any safety switch .
This is a forum for serious repairs not for spreading old wives tales & urban myths, that is what Face book & twitter is for .

Click to expand...

skiman said:

ive checked literally hundreds of coils this way over time...if it reads between 2.5K and 5k ohms...its good...outside this range is bad...worked every time...outside the lower and upper limits has identified if the coil is bad every time without exception...been doing this for almost 50 years...

Click to expand...

skiman said:

ive checked literally hundreds of coils this way over time...if it reads between 2.5K and 5k ohms...its good...outside this range is bad...worked every time...outside the lower and upper limits has identified if the coil is bad every time without exception...been doing this for almost 50 years...

Click to expand...

The proper way to test a coil is with an oscilloscope You cannot test a coil properly with an ohm meter.

Dpmulvan said:

The proper way to test a coil is with an oscilloscope You cannot test a coil properly with an ohm meter.

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True. I'll hang out a coil is just the most very basic test a person can do and you should never rely on it too much.
Even with an oscilloscope you still don't know if the coil will get hot and break down or vibrations will take an effect etc but it's still better than just an ohm test.
Even if you had a higher quality more realistic style coil tester which they do make and you might remember some of them from some automotive displays for coils years ago... It was one of these you would have to let it run for a period of time to make sure it wouldn't break down.
All of these static tests are kind of moot.
The best way to diagnose anything is to get it to act up, which these things usually do pretty consistently, and then troubleshoot it from there like checking for spark..
Strange things happen and real use applications some that aren't supposed to.
The oscilloscope reminds me of an alternator I had one time and it's really the only one I've ever had that did this that was intermittent.
I'm sure it would have fully got out in a few days or miles but when I noticed the problem it was charging and then not charging and back and forth. It ended up being the copper rings for the brushes but it was RPM dependent. At certain RPMs it would charge fine and others it wouldn't. If this alternator was put on a tester even with a oscilloscope as opposed to the junkie ones the auto parts stores use it still would have been spun at a set RPM and might have been right where this alternator happened to be charging but put it on the vehicle where the RPMs are highly variable it would go in and out with the battery light coming on and the volt gauge dropping down repeatedly.

Dpmulvan said:

The proper way to test a coil is with an oscilloscope You cannot test a coil properly with an ohm meter.

Click to expand...

And that is just for the coil section you also need a signal generator to trip the Hall effect trigger .
And depending upon the actual circuit used some need a magnetic field generator.
And because the trigger is potted in then you really need to remove the potting mix to get to the coil proper .
However they are in effect not repairable so it is a moot point .
It either works or it does not work.
You can test the secondary windings, because the coil is in fact a transformer , the High tension lead & cap with an ohm meter but again most of the newer ones are soldered onto the secondary windings so again not replaceable .
When Briggs & Stratton took over Victa they put the price of the magnetos up to $ 180 ( Wholesale ) to make the old power torque engines too expensive to repair so I spent a lot of time looking for an alternative or method of repairing them .
Mower magneto coils have an easy life & the coil itself very rarely fail it is the timing chip that fails .
Chips cost around $ 1 ( Aust) to make and you buy them for $ 15 down here ready to fit so removing the chip from a dead coil and retro fitting the previous external chips became a viable repair method , thus I have pulled a lot of them apart.
The early ones ( made in Italy or Argentina ) had the HT fitted into a brass screw so it was easily replaceable.
The latter ones ( made is China ) have the HT lead soldered to the windings so is not replaceable without destroying the case

docdvae88 said:

Your magneto is bad. When it gets hot it breaks down. A fairly simple fix. Get your Model, Type, and Code information and go to Amazon. The part should be under $40 even if you want the genuine factory article or about $20 for a Chinese knock-off that will probably do just as well. The replacement is an easy afternoon job for anyone with a basic tool set. I don't remember the exact specification, but you'll want to be pretty careful setting the air gap. It's been a couple of decades since I shut the shop down. Should be available with a Google search as long as you have the Model, Type, and Code number.

Click to expand...

Magneto? Maybe in the 60’s

regeland:
What is the latest results of your testing?

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

I had a brand new zero turn with a Kohler motor that would run for 10 minutes and shut off, dealer said they had this problem with others and it was a casting flaw that was blocking a hole i forgot where. They shipped it back to me and Instead of using new valve cover gasket used red silicone too much I might add. Anyway got mower back did the same thing wasn’t fixed. I got pissed and called Hustler the rep came out with a new mower with a Kawasaki on it and took the Kohler back. Never did find out what it really was, it’s a shame because my older command from the 90’s is still running like a top after I did a valve job.

Dpmulvan said:

I had a brand new zero turn with a Kohler motor that would run for 10 minutes and shut off, dealer said they had this problem with others and it was a casting flaw that was blocking a hole i forgot where. They shipped it back to me and Instead of using new valve cover gasket used red silicone too much I might add. Anyway got mower back did the same thing wasn’t fixed. I got pissed and called Hustler the rep came out with a new mower with a Kawasaki on it and took the Kohler back. Never did find out what it really was, it’s a shame because my older command from the 90’s is still running like a top after I did a valve job.

Click to expand...

I've had 3 Chinese Loncin engines on riders that had a piece of wadding pushed up into carb inlet nipple. The 1st time was surprising, the 2nd even more that it happened twice....now I check anytime the symptoms are fuel starvation.
Point is, you diagnose by symptoms and methodically check in logical way until you find the reason for the symptom.

laurin800 said:

Magneto? Maybe in the 60’s

Click to expand...

Magneto, coil, ignition module

laurin800 said:

Magneto? Maybe in the 60’s

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Magneto, coil, ignition module, ignition coil.. Are all commonly used interchangeably. Whether it's technically correct or not...it doesn't matter. People refer to the thing that the spark plug wire comes out of as all of these terms so as long as we know what they mean.

laurin800 said:

Magneto? Maybe in the 60’s

Click to expand...

,

TobyU says:
People refer to the thing that the spark plug wire comes out of as all of these terms so as long as we know what they mean.

or it's sometimes also termed:
Check the thingamajiggy with the wire coming out going to the other thingy.

Boy this thread has taken a life of its own?

regeland said:

John Deere LA 115 19.5 briggs and stratton starts cold runs 5 minutes and cuts off. loses spark. Has a new spark plug new gas filter, new air filter. Anyone else have this problem?

Click to expand...

Sounds like the ignition coil has a bad coil winding inside it.

shadetree#1 said:

TobyU says:
People refer to the thing that the spark plug wire comes out of as all of these terms so as long as we know what they mean.

or it's sometimes also termed:
Check the thingamajiggy with the wire coming out going to the other thingy.

Click to expand...

Very true. LOL