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The engine is leaking oil under the carb & muffler assembly and I cannot see where it is leaking from.

On the attached diagram, part # 92049B is called the oil seal.

I am thinking it is that ???

Also, I cannot see what that attaches to, do I need to remove the engine to replace that part ??

Thanks!

The oil seems to be leaking at the oil seal part# 92049c and there is a shaft passing through that seal,
does anyone know what that shaft is or operates ??

Thanks

Is that the engine you were talking about on your other trend. It looks like if its a kohler its not a courage so it would have hyd. valve lifters. As far as that seal goes it looks to me like the seal for the governor shaft. Once you take the governor apart it can be a job to reset it. This is a job for someone who know what they are doing. One thing you will need is a tachometer to reset it if you do it yourself.

reynoldston said:

Is that the engine you were talking about on your other trend. It looks like if its a kohler its not a courage so it would have hyd. valve lifters. As far as that seal goes it looks to me like the seal for the governor shaft. Once you take the governor apart it can be a job to reset it. This is a job for someone who know what they are doing. One thing you will need is a tachometer to reset it if you do it yourself.

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Governor shaft is what you think it is ? The engine is a 15hp Kawasaki, FH45 1V BS04

I was hoping I could just replace the oil seal but from what you have stated, it is a job for an experienced technician because of the necessary adjustments. I guess you are sure about that rod that projects from the crankcase ?

Another question, is seems it only leaks oil when sitting, is that possible it leaks out only if the oil is slightly overfilled ?

Thanks - Rick

Rickcin, I am confused. Is the oil leaking around #92049C or #92049B? if it is #92049C follow reynolds recommendation and take it to the shop. You may end up spending big bucks if you do it yourself. Just my recommendation.

Rivets said:

Rickcin, I am confused. Is the oil leaking around #92049C or #92049B? if it is #92049C follow reynolds recommendation and take it to the shop. You may end up spending big bucks if you do it yourself. Just my recommendation.

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Yes, the oil is leaking out of the seal part # 92049C. What if I make all of the parts before removing them so I re-assemble in the exact same location? The governor speed should then be the same ?

I have no way to get it to a shop, actually my neighbors mower who brought it to my house since his Dad, a landscaper, had passed away.

Suggestions rae greatly appreciated!

Thanks

I would NOT attempt that unless I had a manual, a video camera, and 2-3 good friends. I have been doing this for 40 years and at times still go to the manual on some engines.

Governor adjustments can be very touchy. Make sure you have a tachometer and service manual if you do this job.

reynoldston said:

Governor adjustments can be very touchy. Make sure you have a tachometer and service manual if you do this job.

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Is it possible it is leaking through the oil seal because the oil is slightly overfilled and when the crankcase heats up ( when Running) that it will not leak ?

I am going to say no on this. A seal is eather good or bad. A good seal or O ring will hold back oil. I have seen engines with pluged crankcase vents blow oil pass a seal. You might want to check that.

Anything is possible. Try this trick to confirm that the oil is definitely coming from that seal. Wash and wipe the area clean and make sure it is very dry. I even use a heat gun or hair dryer. Spray the area you suspect with a fine powder. I have used baby, foot, even flour for this. Then let it sit and keep checking, it may take a couple of days. You should see a trail in the powder which will lead you to the source. I know this sounds kinky, but it works, we use this to find hidden hydraulic leaks on tractors.

Its been a few years back when I was working in a big shop on over the road trucks, as I remember they make a product that did this same thing that came in a aerosol can made to find oil leaks. It sprayed a fine power. Also it seems like I also can remember something you could put in the oil and then look for the oil leak with a black light. I am thinking back 30 years.

reynoldston said:

I am going to say no on this. A seal is eather good or bad. A good seal or O ring will hold back oil. I have seen engines with pluged crankcase vents blow oil pass a seal. You might want to check that.

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I am thinking just take it all apart, clean and look at the crankcase assembly,however the governor adjustment kind of knocks me out of the box.

I hate bringing it to a shop, always difficult to get an honest dealer to work on the mower especially durning the normal season.
If it were winter, I am sure one would get a much better deal. I never mind paying a fair price for some good work, but like most others, I hate to be taken advantage of.

I would say the way to learn is go for it. Mark all your linkage very close and try it. The most that can happen is it will run a little fast or slow which really not going to hurt anything. Without a tachometer you just won't the RPM's but just try to remember how it sounds right to you.

reynoldston said:

I would say the way to learn is go for it. Mark all your linkage very close and try it. The most that can happen is it will run a little fast or slow which really not going to hurt anything. Without a tachometer you just won't the RPM's but just try to remember how it sounds right to you.

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That was more or less what I was thinking. If the engine is racing when it has been reassembled, I would not run the machine until the problem is corrected. The 15hp Kawasaki just purrs when cutting, it seems it runs at a very moderate pace, not straining at all.

I just bought a new/complete tool set from Sears and I am looking forward to removing the engine on Sunday. Hoping to have some fun, learn and be able to make the repair myself, I hope !!!

Thanks for your guidance.

reynoldston said:

I would say the way to learn is go for it. Mark all your linkage very close and try it. The most that can happen is it will run a little fast or slow which really not going to hurt anything. Without a tachometer you just won't the RPM's but just try to remember how it sounds right to you.

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I would just like to thank your great advice and recommendation.

My neighbor and I did tear the motor apart, we carefully marked all of the control linkage, especially the governor rod and were careful not to let the crank or shaft move at all. We replaced the oil seal around the governor shaft and the bottom main shaft seal and carefully rebooted and sealed the crank case back together and guess what, the engine started right up and purrs like a kitten..and...no more leak!!!

I really enjoyed doing this and hope to learn and do more.

Thanks again for the advice and your words of encouragement. We all learn best by doing!

Rick

Congratulations!