Electrical woes

I apologize if I missed it but what is the AC voltage coming off of your stator? And with the key on, are you getting battery voltage to the voltage regulator? I may have missed this too, but what engine is it?
 
TxTodd said:
Good evening. I am at a loss. I would like to begin by saying that automotive electrical is not my best subject. I try, but I end up with a mess usually, or I feel like everything works against me to create unique and unheard of issues. All that to say I need major help. I will try to cover everything I have done up until this point, because I may have messed something up along the way. Here we go:

2013 Ariens A22H46 lawn mower.

Lots of backfiring and battery kept draining. I replaced the coils and plugs, battery, major cleaning of the carb, changed oil. Battery was on the charger. Seemed to help, but then she started backfiring again and then wouldn't start. Bought a new battery and she ran great, then mower blades wouldn't engage and she wouldn't start anymore.

Replaced electric PTO switch and ignition switch and solenoid. Charged battery. Worked for a while until the PTO just quit. Read that it might be alternator so sure enough, not charging battery when checked with multimeter. Replaced stator and voltage regulator, checked inline 20 amp fuse (still good), still not charging battery. Don't know what else to do and don't know how to use a multimeter to its full potential.

To recap, these are the items that have been replaced with new parts: (and I bought them all from Amazon, but they seemed to be small businesses working with Amazon)

Ignition switch
PTO switch
solenoid
coils and plugs
stator
voltage regulator
checked fuse and it is good

still no charge at battery when engine is running. And battery is now showing 10.75 volts and will continuously drop voltage when it is running, no blades engaged or lights on.

I have bypassed the safety switch in the seat because it had finally given up the ghost. I bypassed it by removing the metal sleeve type thing in the harness under the seat. I saw a video on it but can't remember any more details about it.

Oh, and the ignition switch seems backwards. I used to have to turn it back one position to keep the blades engaged while backing up, that position has changed now. I no longer have to turn it back, and if I do, the blades will disengage when backing up. It's like the poles have reversed or something.

I think that is it. Again, I am not the best at automotive electrical and could really use some help. I want to learn because I know this hinders me and I won't let it beat me. Thanks for any advice.
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Typical parts cannon.
 
Probably easier to update everyone in one post. Left the battery on the charger overnight and it was at 12 volts. I just put it on and started the mower and it is now charging at 13 volts, so I am assuming that was the issue after changing stator and vr because it was at 10 volts then and I had to jump it off. Appreciate all of the help and suggestions. I think I understand a little bit more about auto electrical, but I would still like to learn more about how to check the amps coming out of the stator with the multimeter. Thanks for all the help
 
TxTodd said:
Probably easier to update everyone in one post. Left the battery on the charger overnight and it was at 12 volts. I just put it on and started the mower and it is now charging at 13 volts, so I am assuming that was the issue after changing stator and vr because it was at 10 volts then and I had to jump it off. Appreciate all of the help and suggestions. I think I understand a little bit more about auto electrical, but I would still like to learn more about how to check the amps coming out of the stator with the multimeter. Thanks for all the help
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Voltage....not amps.
 
Lots of info online about your electrical questions and how to use a electrical tester.

Normally the Stator AC amps is not tested, just the AC volts at hi rpm,s.
 
TxTodd said:
I will check them again. I've only checked battery ground and cleaned where the voltage regulator bolts to the engine.

I will take it to a shop if we can't figure it out on this forum, which is what I was hoping for when I posted. I suppose listing the parts I've replaced wasn't the smartest thing to do because that's all anyone is focusing on. I thought listing the parts would help diagnose the problem, but I also don't mind spending money on my mower since I haven't had to do any major work on it since purchasing it. Figured after 13 years, some of these things were bound to start failing so it's a win/win for me. But since I've replaced everything and still having problems, was wanting a little guidance on fixing it myself since I don't want to take it to a shop every time something goes wrong with it if it's something I very well could fix myself if I had the knowledge. And that's why I am here, to learn, if possible, from people who have more knowledge than I do.

Appreciate the suggestion to check the grounds again. Will do that when I get home from work. Hopefully that is all it is.
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You may have a couple different and separate problems, your voltage regulator may be bad that is what is causing your battery to run down, if you have VOM (volt ohm meter) check at the battery with the motor running and you should have around 13.5 to 14 volts, if not the regulator is probably bad or the stator that supplies AC voltage to the regulator. If the regulator is bad and not keeping the battery charged then that could be what is causing your blades to not engage when you pull the switch because of low voltage at the battery. The back firing may or may not be a separate problem. If you don’t have a VOM you can buy a cheap one off Amazon or at Walmart for around $10
 
I have noticed this. (and especially true BEFORE doing electrical troubleshooting)

Understanding how a system is supposed to operate before troubleshooting is a foundational principle of effective diagnostics. This approach ensures you identify the actual root cause rather than just treating symptoms, enabling you to distinguish normal from abnormal behavior and pinpoint exactly where a process fails.
 
Love your work, I have a 35 year old Nissan Patrol Petrol carbureted, that was misfiring and would not rev past 2000rpm. Non of the shops really wanted to look at it, asked a few questions and started ordering parts. First was coil, helped a bit but didn't resolve, new cheap chines Carby, then came the distributor cap, I switched out the electronic module for points, had to order new condensers, then scratch my head that didn't work, told to clean the earth, and at the same time ordered new rotor button. Boom revved to 4500rpm. Did I waste my money on some of the parts Yes, overall I would have spent the same or more if I could have gotten a mechanic to look at it on labour.
A good mower shop/mechanic shop is a great thing to have and I support them when I can. Also, if I ask for advice, I reward that with a 6 pack, is that bribery?
 
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