Electrical woes

Where is it backfiring from exactly? Carb or muffler?

I'd be checking the flywheel key. It's a free test.

Also proper torque ON the flywheel bolt.
backfiring from the muffler. And it's only backfiring when the battery voltage gets low so I am assuming that's a firing issue with the coils and the lack of power from the stator and vr? I torqued the flywheel bolt to 60 ft lbs.
 
Great place to start. Or a local mower shop supporting the local community.
Our local shop is who I called first and they were having issues at the time with availability on the parts. I didn't know if that was because of the age of the mower or just a stocking issue in general from their supplier, so I broke down and searched on Amazon. I justified the Amazon purchase because the parts came from a "small business". I know I may have created more problems by doing that, but I can send most of the parts back. They weren't that expensive anyway so it can be a lesson learned. Could that be the problem? Should I just replace everything with OEM parts Ariens and what I can get from my local shop?

And yes, I blow off the engine cooling fins during the summer season and before putting it up for the winter with the compressor. I try to keep it as clean as possible from dirt and debris collection.
 
backfiring from the muffler. And it's only backfiring when the battery voltage gets low so I am assuming that's a firing issue with the coils and the lack of power from the stator and vr? I torqued the flywheel bolt to 60 ft lbs.
Our local shop is who I called first and they were having issues at the time with availability on the parts. I didn't know if that was because of the age of the mower or just a stocking issue in general from their supplier, so I broke down and searched on Amazon. I justified the Amazon purchase because the parts came from a "small business". I know I may have created more problems by doing that, but I can send most of the parts back. They weren't that expensive anyway so it can be a lesson learned. Could that be the problem? Should I just replace everything with OEM parts Ariens and what I can get from my local shop?

And yes, I blow off the engine cooling fins during the summer season and before putting it up for the winter with the compressor. I try to keep it as clean as possible from dirt and debris collection.
I just remembered that when I removed the flywheel to replace the stator, it was packed with dirt and grass between all the magnets. I took the compressor and a brass bristle brush and got all the dirt removed, but could that cause issues later on? The magnets seemed strong and had a lot of pull when I reinstalled the flywheel.
 
I just remembered that when I removed the flywheel to replace the stator, it was packed with dirt and grass between all the magnets. I took the compressor and a brass bristle brush and got all the dirt removed, but could that cause issues later on? The magnets seemed strong and had a lot of pull when I reinstalled the flywheel.
Should be fine as long as all the magnets are present. Any spots where it might look like a magnet was glued on?
 
Should be fine as long as all the magnets are present. Any spots where it might look like a magnet was glued on?
Everything looked normal or at least factory. I've never pulled the flywheel in 13 years and it's never been to the shop for that type of maintenance that required pulling the flywheel, so as far as I know the magnets are attached the same as when they left the factory. Nothing felt loose when I was cleaning it.
 
Model # 93605300/A22H46 Serial # 013012A008475

And regarding the blades disengaging in reverse, I know that is a safety feature, was just pointing out that when I replaced the ignition switch the position to keep the blades engaged changed. Didn't know if that might contribute to an electrical issue somewhere else.

As far as me cleaning out my bank account buying parts, if the original parts are still good then I will have spare parts laying around that I can use later if I can keep the mower going another 13 years, and considering the age of the mower and that I've never replaced anything on it except batteries and blades, spending a little money and doing a little tune up isn't going to harm it. I might have spent that much in parts and labor anyway, who knows. I am not opposed to taking it to a shop, but I came on her to try and learn something before I take that step. I was hoping I could gain some insight on electrical since I know it's not my strong point, but it seems like the responses I've gotten so far are just to take it to the shop instead of gaining a little knowledge.

Appreciate your response.
Diagnosing electrical issues via the internet is not always the easiest thing to do.
 
backfiring from the muffler.
That tells me the ignition timing is off.

Again, check the flywheel key. Make sure flywheel bolt is torqued to proper spec.

Or possible excess fuel or lack of in the muffler lighting off running super lean or rich.
 
What other have said^^^

People here have on occasion posted that some alternator systems need a near fully charged battery to work correctly. Charge the battery again, and then check the voltage on it before starting the mower. Check it again with it running to see if it is higher or lower.

DISCONNECT the battery when you are charging it just to make sure you don't toast the new VR
 
The battery is not charging:

What others have said and
Looking at the wiring diagram:
Does yours have the AC ammeter on the dash?

Have you checked the stator output as 28v AC? (this is wire to wire, not to ground)
The case on the regulator MUST BE GROUNDED GOOD to get a charge

If these check ok jumper the red wire from the regulator to the pos post on the battery through a 15 amp in-line fuse. start the engine and measure the battery voltage at high throttle.

Intermittent backfiring might be caused from contaminated fuel.
Does it backfire out the exhaust or carb?????
 
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