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Electric clutch reinstalled wrong (not to torque specs) now has a problem.

#1

R

Ranger II

Hello. I'm a new member of your forum. I recently lost a son-in-law, which was good, but in that I also lost my mechanic, which was bad but still a good trade.

I replaced the trans drive belt on my 54" Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro. In re-assembly of the clutch, unknown to me, my air compressor was failing and did not torque the bolt correctly. I started the mower and heard a metal to metal screech. I took the clutch off and found that the rotor and the armature were rubing against each other and the casing was partially separated. When I found out a little later that the compressor had failed, I came to the conclusion that the bolt was loose and allowed the separation.

I don't know if my theory is correct, but if so, I do not know how to correct the situation. I don't know if just re-installing with the correct torque will force it back in alignment or if that will cause more problems. I know little about how the clutch works so I'm hoping I don't have to crack it open to fix this problem.

Any advice will be appreciated.


#2

StarTech

StarTech

Well first you never use impact as a substitute for a torque wrench. You can either under torque or over torque things.

As the clutch it may be beyond hope as it sound like it is now damaged. PLus you might installed the drive pulley the wrong way too. An expensive lesson to learn.


#3

H

hlw49

The clutch has a magnetic brake built into it. The disc on the pulley side of the clutch fits between the brake and the electromagnetic side of the clutch. An impact is not a torque wrench. Most clutches torque from 48 to 55 foot pounds. Any less and the clutch could fall off, any more could ruin the bearings.


#4

B

bertsmobile1

You should not be able to damage the clutch from doing it up to tight .
In theory all of the compression travels through the inner races which locate onto shoulders .
OTOH I think you probably have the rotor on the wrong side of the brake magnets as previous posters mentioned .
The worst you will do from overtightening is to strip the threads off the bolt as they are only grade 5 to start with


#5

H

hlw49

Well you may or may not be right but when you buy a clutch from Xtreme they caution not to over tighten it as it can ruin the bearings. They send directions in each clutch stating this. By the way Xtreme it a really good clutch and they are priced a lot of the time far cheaper that the OEM. For example a clutch back through the manufacturer of one of the brands we sell is $643.95 and through Xtreme it is around $250.00.


#6

StarTech

StarTech

bertsmobile1 said:
You should not be able to damage the clutch from doing it up to tight .
In theory all of the compression travels through the inner races which locate onto shoulders .
OTOH I think you probably have the rotor on the wrong side of the brake magnets as previous posters mentioned .
The worst you will do from overtightening is to strip the threads off the bolt as they are only grade 5 to start with
Click to expand...
True but the compression can crush the softer metal in the integrated spacers. And as for the bolt being grade 5 most here are grade 8 or metric equal. Also the rotor is less likely to be damage as it is the armature that can be easily damaged if on the wrong side of the magnets. The rotor is too thick to even allow a bolt up if it is on the side.

This image not a version with the magnet brake but shows the general assembly.
1646050583251.png


#7

R

Ranger II

Thanks a lot for the advice. Lesson learned, big time, on the torque wrench.

To start with, I have already decided that this clutch is more complicated than my training and interests are prepaired to master, so I will replace it. However, I'll take one last shot at saving it. Referencing the question about the rotor being on the wrong side of the brake magnets, I've attached a picture which, I think, based on your feedback and video, shows the rotor on the correct side, just rubbing against the magnets. In this view, is pressing the two sides together ~1/8" an effective possibility?

On another note, I have searched the web in vain for a service/repair manual for this machine. Any leads will be appreciated.

Regarding the clutch bolt, the one on this machine is a metric gr. 5.

Thank you.


#8

R

Ranger II

For got the pic

Attachments





#9

StarTech

StarTech

Yes they are correctly positioned. Can't tell for sure but armature springs may be damaged. This something I have see in person to be sure.
1646132295977.png
And far a factory service manual none exist in the public domain that I have found. A lot of the equipment that I repair don't have service manuals.


#10

R

Ranger II

In your opinion, assuming the springs are not damaged, might I be able to press things back in place and test?

And if so, might friction damage to the mis-mated surfices be a another road block?

Thanks again.


#11

M

mmoffitt

Ranger II said:
Hello. I'm a new member of your forum. I recently lost a son-in-law, which was good, but in that I also lost my mechanic, which was bad but still a good trade.

I replaced the trans drive belt on my 54" Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro. In re-assembly of the clutch, unknown to me, my air compressor was failing and did not torque the bolt correctly. I started the mower and heard a metal to metal screech. I took the clutch off and found that the rotor and the armature were rubing against each other and the casing was partially separated. When I found out a little later that the compressor had failed, I came to the conclusion that the bolt was loose and allowed the separation.

I don't know if my theory is correct, but if so, I do not know how to correct the situation. I don't know if just re-installing with the correct torque will force it back in alignment or if that will cause more problems. I know little about how the clutch works so I'm hoping I don't have to crack it open to fix this problem.

Any advice will be appreciated.
Click to expand...
First I'm hearing of a built in compressor driven torque wrench? but times are a changing! I do have the self sharpening blade system on mine though


#12

B

bertsmobile1

mmoffitt said:
First I'm hearing of a built in compressor driven torque wrench? but times are a changing! I do have the self sharpening blade system on mine though
Click to expand...
They have been using them on assembly lines for at least 50 years
When GM , Toyota & Ford all closed down their assembly plants here I was hoping to get some commercial grade air tools but apparently most of them went as a bulk lot to Thailand & Malaysia


#13

StarTech

StarTech

There are torque limiting impact extensions available. But it just easier to use a torque wrench and be sure,


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