ECHO SRM 3020 With Brush Cutter In Action - First Time Use

kblackmer100

kblackmer100

Member
I love this attachment pretty easy to install and man does it cuts, the SRM 3020 has a ton of power and pushing that blade is nothing.
In this video I cleared a lot.

What do you use to clear this kind of brush?

 
Is there a barrier bar installed on your trimmer? I didn't see one. It's really best to use a bike handlebar trimmer and harness when using any type of rigid blade, but as a minimum a barrier bar should be used, and only with certain types if rigid blades. Usually a barrier bar come with brush cutter kits, at least all of the ones that I have seen.
 
Better than the chain saw video.
But again poor technique.
Brushcutters should always be cutting on the right side of the blade.
This is very important from a safety point of view as debris it thrown forward away from the operator.
It also important from a control point of view as the reaction force to the cutting action pushes the tool harder towards the operator rather than ripping it out of their hands .
When you are using a solid cutting head this applies double.
Handle bars as previously mentioned are always highly recommended when using solid cutters as they allow for better grip and much much greater control over the blade.

It is also very good procedure to walk the area to be cleared before you start cutting.
You may well have done it but you did not mention it,
Finding things like rusted off steel fence pickets in scrub is not funny.

This is border line advertising which is outlawed on this site.

As for what I use, if there are few rocks and none of the saplings are over 2" in diameter I use my Victa Super 24 mower or in more open ground the Rover Rancher II with up front slasher.
The fence lines I clear ( can not call it mowing ) will grow 10' tall hardwood gum trees in 6 months if the weather is good.
 
The thing about using a bike handlebar unit a with harness is that the blade can't hit the operator unless it does so in pieces. There is no way that the business end of it can kick into you unless it comes unclipped from the harness somehow.

I run a Stihl 22 tooth circular blade on mine - the kind that you sharpen with a chainsaw file - as well as a 3 pointed "brush knife." That works fine for some annual trimming that I do on my property and an "unmowable" section of a factory yard that I also cut annually. The circular blade cuts brush and samplings like crazy but bump one rock and it needs sharpening. The brush knife is much more forgiving of rocks.

I also have a Shindaiwa 3 bladed plastic flail-type blade head. That's more suitable for a loop handled trimmer instead of a rigid blade and for trimming where rocks and other solid objects are present. That's what I would recommend for a loop handled trimmer.
 
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