Take it easy rabbit.
Some people actually work.
Now unless you have removed both of those screws, which are the jets you have not cleaned the carb.
Some carbs have a shield around them which can simply be cut off.
His looks like a newer model designed specifically to prevent you doing just that.
Must have taken the entre board of the EPA a long time to work that one out.
The ends of the jets have a spline that takes a special tool that I can not get from my wholesalers either & I am now a certified & fully liscenced small engine repairer.
It is only available to select certified technicians who arre connected to a retail outlet that sells the equipment with this particular carb attached.
Even down here there are $20,000 fines for selling one the the "wrong" person.
However you can undo them ( normal right hand thread ) with a pair of tweezers.
Once out they can be slotted with dremel cut off disc and then you can adjust them with a watchmakers or jewlers screwdriver.
Downside of the tweezers is you can not screw them in till they seat so you do not have a starting setting when they go back in.
The other way to make a tool is to go down to a hobby store and buy a length of thick walled brass tubing a little smaller than the diameter of the hole.
Tap the tube lightly and the steel serrations will cut into the sides of the tube creating the "EVIL FORBIDDEN INSTRUMENT" but don't tell the pencil d..k at the EPA who comes up with these idiot ideas.
Be very gentle as the entire carb is only zinc and a slightly too havy tap will strip the threads so you have a good tool but a broken carb
Every trimmer in contintntial USA running too rich for every second of an entire year will still not put as much unburned hydrocarbons into the air as a single engine on an ageing DC10 idleing 100 yards down the ruway on rich burn.
As yours idles fine. the needle you are worrying about is the H ( high ) needle which is the one furthest away from the engine.
