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Finally decided it was time to repower our Deere LX176 (had the Kawasaki 14hp with 1421 hours).
Got a deal on a B&S Intek 19hp engine and have it mounted up but having some issues figuring out the wiring. Any help would be appreciated!
Looking at the wiring diagrams and a bit confused. Have a black/yellow and black/white wire that has me stumped and thinking Im missing something...
Anyone here know what wire goes where?

Post up the engine numbers of the briggs. are we looking at two blacks and a white, or is there also a red one.

B&S Model# 33R877-0003-G1. Intek 19 hp.
The Briggs has a single 4 wire plug: white (fuel), black, a red, and an orange. The Kawasaki had two blacks and a white.
Im especially confused by the Deere's black/yellow and black/white wires as Im not finding them in any diagrams.

remove the blower housing on both engines and see where the wires go to
The pats that need electrical connections are simply the magneto ( kill wire ) the fuel solenoid ( power wire ) and the alternator.
Don't give a wrinkled wrats rectum about the colours, just trace them to where they go.

Briggs use a few different alternators.
They colour code the wires & the plugs so they are easy to identify.
Unfortunately you could have not takes 3 less useful photos if you had tried.
What is important is the colour of the wires that the red & orange wires join to and the colour & shape of the plug that joins them to the alternator.

Has said above take off the cover and check all wires.....be careful do NOT put power where it shouldn't go....

Funny enough they are in the John Deer Technical manual for the LX series of tractors.

They are AC wires that go to the rectifier/regulator which on the LX 178 was mounted under the dash and not on the engine like the Briggs .
Now this is going to cause you grief if you do not have a reasonable understanding of circuitary .
Locate the voltage rectifier / regulator and unplug it.
Run the red from the plug to the red and the orange to the red & yellow on the mower.
Remove the blower housing and remove the black wire from the magneto to prevent accidential damage.
Connect the battery and check that at no time you get 12V on the black wire.
Start the engine and again check for voltage on the black wire, if none then connect it and replace the blower housing.
The diagram below comes from the Technical manual which I would recommend you get from John Deer woth 10 times what they charge for it and will more than pay for itself the first time you use it.

View attachment LX 172-188.pdf

Thanks much bertsmobile. Incredibly helpful and just ordered it. So I'd be basically bypassing the mower's regulator.
So I can connect the new motor's red wire to the red going to the rectifier, but am not seeing any red/yellow wire on either the mower or diagram. Did you mean connect the motor's orange wire to both red and yellow on the mower?
The two other wires (black-or brown/white and black-or brown/yellow) both went directly to the stator. Would those then get spiced to the red on the new motor?

DirtyLittleSecret said:

Thanks much bertsmobile. Incredibly helpful and just ordered it. So I'd be basically bypassing the mower's regulator.
So I can connect the new motor's red wire to the red going to the rectifier, but am not seeing any red/yellow wire on either the mower or diagram. Did you mean connect the motor's orange wire to both red and yellow on the mower?
The two other wires (black-or brown/white and black-or brown/yellow) both went directly to the stator. Would those then get spiced to the red on the new motor?

Click to expand...

yes you are bypassing the rectifier fitted to the mower and using the one fitted to the engine.
So the DC ( red ) wire from the engine's rectifier goes to the red wire attached to the old rectifier on the mower.
The striped wires at the engine plug go nowhere and get connected to nothing as they are the old AC wires that went from the Kawasaki stator to the rectifier which you are bypassing.

Now I threw you a red herring or rather a red & yellow herring.
The orange wire on the new engine plug should go to the Yellow & black wire coming out of the old rectifier.
So you will unplug the 6 pin plug that the rectifier connects to and the red & orange wires into there.
The other 4 terminals shall remain empty.
As I read the diagram that means the battery light will always be on or will never come on depending upon how it was wired into the rectifier.

On a completely different tack, if you get back onto who ever sold you the engine and ask them if you could swap your current alternator & rectifier for a 10Amp stator that has 2 yellow wires in place of your single yellow wire then you could simply plug the yellow wires into the striped wires and use the original rectifier.

Now that I have thought about it you may have been sold the wrong engine as the alternator fitted might not be powerful enough to charge the battery and power the clutch at the same time.

Finally got time to try this again and wired it as such. As soon as I hook up the battery it turns over as if the ignition switch is now bypassed. Looked at the diagram again and looks like it should work. I’m now wondering...what am I missing?

somewhere you have rook up the 12v+ to the solenoid.