Replaced both spindles on old Murray 42" deck after one of the bearings took a dump. Now, the blades are really hard to turn by hand, (blade brakes held open). What did I miss?
Preassembled new spindles replaced old. Neither new nor old had spacers between bearings. Do I torque the pulley and blade nuts to a spec to seat the bearings? Can't find torque specs for any nuts on the deck. If I loosen the pulley bolt the blade will turn with one finger, it doesn't spin freely like the idler pulley, but it turns with one fingers pressure. All I need is this thing coming apart from loose bolts but there is much resistance when I tighten the bolts. I am going to take it back apart and make sure no crud dropped into the bearing pockets and try again.
#4
StarTech
Which spindles are these? Part number reference needed. Also havingthe mower model will help to look up the info you are asking for.
You're right. I looked at the old ones and there is a spacer on the axle. It looks all of one piece because of the crud factor and I didn't bother to clean them up yet. Of course the spacer won't budge after 15 years or so. Have yet to take the new ones apart to check but I'll do so prior to torquing them, just to be sure.
Thanks for your help,
Follow up. Spindle / axle desn't have a seperate spacer. It is machined into the spindle and the bearings rest on the machined spindle. So, took it all apart applied healthy coating of grease on all rotating areas and torqued it to 35 ftlbs. Wow. Spins easily now. Will reattach to mower and run it for a few minutes and recheck the torque.
Thanks for your help...the difference between a newbie and experience is vast
#9
StarTech
Then it sounds a new design that I haven't seen yet as the spindle shafts that I am familiar with are straight 5/8 shafts with the appropriate machining on each end and a sleeve for a spacer. The inner spacer prevented inner part of the bearings from being side loaded too much.
It may be done the new way so robot assemblers can do the job easier. Good to know of the new design as I would have tried to get shaft out without one bearings being removed.
It does sounds like you got the problem resolved and some of us may have learned something new too or at least I did.
I got this mower 2nd hand and have had it for 10 years. The parts I took off appeared to be original (all the self threading bolts were the same and none of the other deck bolts had been replaced ie no wrench scars or rounding). No removable spacers used in the old spindels and the new replacement spindels didn't have spacers either. The top (pulley) bearing and axel (with blade removed) will fall out readily but the bottom (blade) bearing must have been pressed in. The bearings have machined pockets but the top one is loose enough for the bearing and axel to fall out. The axel has machined steps on each side that act as the spacer. It may be a new design but it is probably 15 years old.
Did biller get his Murray repaired to his satisfaction?
#12
LT1045wrh
Just torqued mine down to 80 ft lbs since I couldn’t find torque specs in the manual. Used the torque from other mowers I have.
wow if I loosen them up to they might fall apart!
