Deck actuator

[PTmowerMech]

Bad Boy ZTR 60"
Model # 6000 ZT
S# BBZ6027K002102249

Not a whole lot of info on this. I did a search of this site for badboy accuator and come up with nothing. From what I've read around the internet(s), it's a pretty simple task, R&Ring the actuator, cleaning it out, getting it back on the screwshaft.
Is this something I'm gonna need to rigger-nig, to keep it from unscrewing too far again?

I haven't done one of these yet.

 

[StarTech]

I haven't done either.

Just change the RH hydro on a MZ 54". And I decided while I was at it change the drive belt. Boy what a pain to do. I had to drop the LH transaxle too about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch so the belt would clear the pulleys along with idler tension arm. Glad I had the unit up on jack stands. Kinda glad I did while I was changing the RH hydro. Now I tear down that hydro and rebuild it for resale. Got to replace the center section, cylinder pump, and cylinder motor.

Now I know I need to charge two hours of labor to change the drive belt.

 

[PTmowerMech]

I got the actuator off, and just my luck, the video I see of someone with this problem, was the exact opposite. He was able to get something to hold the threads while he turned the other end. On this one, there's NO room to hold onto the threads at all.

 

[StarTech]

Just remember you are learning something new as I am too so take your time and make notes along with photos if possible. Kinda like to see what you are dealing with.

 

[PTmowerMech]

Where I circled it, is where I'm supposed to grab it ( between the casing and the stainless tubing) and turn the other end. But there's just not enough room to hold onto anything. My bent, small needle nose will fit in there. But won't hold the shaft tight enough to turn the other end.

 

[PTmowerMech]

Just remember you are learning something new as I am too so take your time and make notes along with photos if possible. Kinda like to see what you are dealing with.

I'm gonna take the casing off, exposing the gears and see if there's something in there I can get a good hold on. I've already checked the gears. They look fine. So I'm thinking there something under the stainless tubing, like a couple of nuts that's locked together or bottomed out so tight that it's froze.

 

[StarTech]

Are referring to the three or four holes I am seeing? If so you would need a pin wrench. An adjustable version would be nice like the one I got for ATV CVT clutches. Just depends on the size of the holes. You may even able to make you own.

 

[PTmowerMech]

I'll take some more pics and post. If you need me to. But I've got it loose now. I took the casing off and was able to hold the end (under the casing) with a pair of vice grips. And gave the other end a pretty good turn. And it free'd up. Gonna investigate a little more, but not much. That's stainless tubing is crimped in about 3 places. So I'm guessing there's not going to be a way to shim anything with a washer, to keep it from binding up inside there. Inside the tubing, as far as I can see, is the only place it can bind up.

 

[StarTech]

I wonder who BB source that assembly from as BB want a pretty penny for it.

As for turning I would think the problem might be the gear box itself or the motor but I not there and yet a similar unit to give problems.

I only seen a couple Gravely's ZTR and a JD ZTR powered deck lifts so far and both of them are hydraulic driven.

The BB MZ I am finishing up on I actually need a decent wiring schematic instead that stupid line drawing with connector IDs which doesn't what they are actually going to. I email last night a complaint about it and requested a decent schematic for the MZ. I thinking the problem with the brakes being destroyed is an electrical design problem as the engine should die when the parking is engaged and the motion arms are pull inbound but it don't. IT even be why the RH hydro went out.

I still got to tear down the old unit to see just how bad the center section is damaged. I know I am losing complete motion with it. Then I can come up with a list parts I need to rebuild it. Whatever happen was due to BB electrical design so the customer is out $1100. I reckon five years is not too for it to happen.

 

[PTmowerMech]

I wonder who BB source that assembly from as BB want a pretty penny for it.

As for turning I would think the problem might be the gear box itself or the motor but I not there and yet a similar unit to give problems.

I only seen a couple Gravely's ZTR and a JD ZTR powered deck lifts so far and both of them are hydraulic driven.

The BB MZ I am finishing up on I actually need a decent wiring schematic instead that stupid line drawing with connector IDs which doesn't what they are actually going to. I email last night a complaint about it and requested a decent schematic for the MZ. I thinking the problem with the brakes being destroyed is an electrical design problem as the engine should die when the parking is engaged and the motion arms are pull inbound but it don't. IT even be why the RH hydro went out.

I still got to tear down the old unit to see just how bad the center section is damaged. I know I am losing complete motion with it. Then I can come up with a list parts I need to rebuild it. Whatever happen was due to BB electrical design so the customer is out $1100. I reckon five years is not too for it to happen.

I just talked to the customer this morning. He said for me not to worry about messing with the actuator. He said it's done it a long time. His solution was simple. He just hits the bracket where it's attached with a hammer a few times, and it unsticks.
So, I told him I wouldn't charge him for the labor of what I did. As I didn't actually find out why it binds up, because there's no way to get to where it actually binds up. All that's incased by the stainless tubing.

But I did learn something. Learning does have value.