D140...tran problem...what to do?

Before you pull the transmission check the key way on both sides.Remove the wheel there should be a square key way.I've seen them get worn from going up slopes and get rounded and slip when torque is applied from the hill.
 
Back to your original question, for your yard you should stay with the Deere and get something in the 300x series. Tons of them out there for sale
 
cdestuck said:
Back to your original question, for your yard you should stay with the Deere and get something in the 300x series. Tons of them out there for sale
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With 3-4 acres at least he should be in the garden tractor line.A X590 with a 54" deck would cut his time down and have the tranny to handle the hills.A x7xx series if 4wd was needed.
 
There are plenty of vidios on how to change oil in mower tranny, and to repair it if necessary. Google it. It helps a ton when you see someone do it.
 
lindacms said:
I purchased a D140 JD riding mower 3 years ago, it has 82 hours on it and will no longer go up hills. When I bought it, I didn't know the questions I should ask and my local JD dealer didn't ask me anything to get the right fit for me. Now, I have an expensive lawn ornament. I have about 3-4 acres of lawn with about 1/3 of it having slopes of 15-30 degrees. If I had known this mower was not appropriate for my needs, I would not have bought it. I didn't know what I should have been asking. I replaced the traction drive belt and a damaged V idler pulley in case that was causing the lack of power on the slopes. It barely made a difference. I paid $2000 for it and it would appear that this is commonplace that I have the wrong mower for the wrong job. I've been told that the tranny is "sealed" but that some have been able to remove them to add a different weight oil to the unit. I think that may be beyond what I can handle doing. I bought it from a local JD dealer so that I would have access to a reliable source when I needed them. That may have been my first mistake...only as strong as the weakest link. I've heard replacing the tran will easily be in the ballpark of $1600, I can't get it to the dealer so would have to have it picked up...selling it, I'm sure, would not give me much more than pocket change. Any suggestions out there on what to do next? Or which mower to go with? Needless to say, I highly doubt that the next machine will be a JD.
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Another John Deere transmission for the junk yard. I had a L130 that did the same thing. There are 2 clutch packs that you can buy and replace. I replaced one of the two and it helped but I didn`t want to go thru the hassle of breaking into the tranny again to change the other one. It`s a John Deere,these things don`t happen to John Deere products right?! I ended up selling the piece of junk,I will never own a John Deere product again. I thought the dealer/customer service people would care but they couldn`t have cared less. More than happy to take my money to replace the tranny with a new one for $2300:)
 
Same here, sort of. My JD L130 started slowing at 300 hours. Pulled the Krap46 transaxle and split the case, cleaned out the shrapnel and filled with good old 10w40 Havoline. Ran another 200 hours with a real weak reverse when hot. Replaced it with a Peerless 2000 unit. That Tuff Torq tranny uses the same oil for the hydraulics and the differential gears. Those gears are some type of pressed metal and shred metal particles that eat up the hydro pump and motor pretty quick. Probably the cheapest piece of crap available, see in just about every new riding mower today. The Peerless has a separate differential and hydraulic unit. I hate to think about buying a new mower today, when I look under the back of them there's that POS Tuff Torq, even on some pretty expensive machines too. Won't buy another mower with green paint for sure!
 
lindacms said:
I purchased a D140 JD riding mower 3 years ago, it has 82 hours on it and will no longer go up hills. When I bought it, I didn't know the questions I should ask and my local JD dealer didn't ask me anything to get the right fit for me. Now, I have an expensive lawn ornament. I have about 3-4 acres of lawn with about 1/3 of it having slopes of 15-30 degrees. If I had known this mower was not appropriate for my needs, I would not have bought it. I didn't know what I should have been asking. I replaced the traction drive belt and a damaged V idler pulley in case that was causing the lack of power on the slopes. It barely made a difference. I paid $2000 for it and it would appear that this is commonplace that I have the wrong mower for the wrong job. I've been told that the tranny is "sealed" but that some have been able to remove them to add a different weight oil to the unit. I think that may be beyond what I can handle doing. I bought it from a local JD dealer so that I would have access to a reliable source when I needed them. That may have been my first mistake...only as strong as the weakest link. I've heard replacing the tran will easily be in the ballpark of $1600, I can't get it to the dealer so would have to have it picked up...selling it, I'm sure, would not give me much more than pocket change. Any suggestions out there on what to do next? Or which mower to go with? Needless to say, I highly doubt that the next machine will be a JD.
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I am a retired heavy duty mechanic with many years of experience. I'm Having some trouble understanding some of your issues with this machine. If the transmission is failing, it should be getting blazing hot when under load. It is possible that the hydrostat has been damaged from overload, but if it was, it would be noisier than normal. Another way to tell it is failed is that it would travel slower on flat ground, with no load. Someone needs to check the mechanical linkage from the control lever to the transmission, take the pin out of the lever on the transmission end and see if the control lever and the transmission lever positions match each other at the max speed position. Of course, do this with the engine stopped. One thing about draining oil, if the transmission/hydrostat has failed, the oil will be discoloured, have a strong smell and be contaminated with lots of bright shiny metal particles. New oil or different oil will not fix that. I didn't see the old belts so don't know if slipping belt was/is an issue. If belt slippage was an issue, the pulleys even the belts might be glazed from overheat. Also, I didn't read anything about engine speed while the tractor won't go up the hills. does the engine speed get slower when the tractor slows down?
 
bertsmobile1 said:
hydrostatic boxes have a finite life due to the way they work.
For some unknown JD have them filled with an oil lighter than what the makers specify.
So the No 1 thing to do is to pull the tranny , drain the oil and replace it with 20w 50 fully synthetic.
Generally I don't see any problems with the box till around 500 hours, which is around the design life of the mower.
When you have it off check the pulley very carefully as some of them will rip the splines off when exposed to excessive loads.
Clean the box very carefully before you remove the filler / drain cap.
These things are made in surgically clean conditions. Dust in the oil will drastically reduce the service life.
Some times a simple oil change works wonders, other times it does not but at $ 50 ( aus ) + 3 hours, cheap enough to give it a try.

The problem is the oil required varies according to where you live, how you use the mower and the temperature you us it in.

I think JD specify light oil so the units run well as both a mower & snow thrower
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Hello,
I had a JD LT 155 that has a similar Tuff Torque tranny in it. I had the same issue with mine. What I found out is that the key way on the input shaft of the transmission was so sloppy (somebody else mentioned this also) that the sheave was slipping on the shaft when climbing hills. Tuff torque sells a replacement input shaft due to this poor design. I replaced the shaft and all is well. Your could be something different but its work looking at. Good Luck!
 
edward beday said:
I am a retired heavy duty mechanic with many years of experience. I'm Having some trouble understanding some of your issues with this machine. If the transmission is failing, it should be getting blazing hot when under load. It is possible that the hydrostat has been damaged from overload, but if it was, it would be noisier than normal. Another way to tell it is failed is that it would travel slower on flat ground, with no load. Someone needs to check the mechanical linkage from the control lever to the transmission, take the pin out of the lever on the transmission end and see if the control lever and the transmission lever positions match each other at the max speed position. Of course, do this with the engine stopped. One thing about draining oil, if the transmission/hydrostat has failed, the oil will be discoloured, have a strong smell and be contaminated with lots of bright shiny metal particles. New oil or different oil will not fix that. I didn't see the old belts so don't know if slipping belt was/is an issue. If belt slippage was an issue, the pulleys even the belts might be glazed from overheat. Also, I didn't read anything about engine speed while the tractor won't go up the hills. does the engine speed get slower when the tractor slows down?
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The K46 is low cost hydro. Its biggest problem is That JD puts in a fluid that is too thin. Under a heavy load the fluid bypasses around the pistons in the pump and motor at surersonic speed. That is where the whine comes from. Once it starts it is just a matter of time. Usually the whine of death will get louder as the hydro fails. Driving up a slight incline is considered a heavy load.
 
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