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I got a V twin that's smoking out the oil fill tube. The only way I know which side it might be leaking on is the spark plug. The #1 cylinder (drivers side) is coated real bad. Is there another way of knowing which side would be leaking?

Couple of things. I'm guessing these heads have hydraulic lifters. I seen no way to adjust them. So when I put everything back in, is there something specific and/or important to remember about putting it back together.

And just by chance, could this be the reason why the it only runs good at 1/2 to 3/4 choke? Inside of the carb didn't look bad. It had a dark tint to it. The holes I could get to, weren't clogged, the mixture holes (3 tiny ones at the top of the carb, just before the intake) were all clear. As well as the other.
Funny thing about this solenoid, it had a jet at the bottom of it. Reminded me of the bowl nuts that have the hole on both sides that meet in the middle. It was a little clogged. But clean now. After checking all the holes I could get to, poking them, spraying carb cleaner through them and blowing the out, seems the engine didn't need as much choking, as before. Sometimes, i can actually get the choke about 7/8th open. But not for long.
This carb is one with pump on the side of it, as well as the actual plastic fuel pump on the side of the blower housing. I've never dug into one of these. My old boss says to NEVER take the top plate off (triangle shape with the one screw that has a wire grounding to it.)

Any insight on this information will be appreciated. Thanks

P.S. Something I forgot to mention. It was white smoking pretty bad before I cleaned out the carb. Gas makes black smoke, so I'm not sure how they're connected. But after putting the carb back on and firing it up, it smoked for just a few seconds then stopped. I let it run for about 15 minutes, at mid to high idle, and the smoking, except a little on start up, just quit.

Sounds like a blown head gasket. There is a process to bleed the lifters in the manual you can download from kohler. If you don't mix them up you can put them back with out bleeding. Just handcrank the engine around a few revs before starting.

The idle circuit for the carb is under that triangle shaped piece that your boss said not to remove. It should be removed to clean the idle passages.. That pump on the side is the accelerator pump like the old auto carbs from years ago. The white smoke is most likely oil. No unusual for the Command to smoke slightly on start up due to oil seeping past the rings.

Bt now you should we need the equipment numbers.

To non invasive test an engine you use a leak down tester. Most use 100 psi to test things but the one from HFT that I got uses only 12 psi. With OHV engine if you disable the valve train you can test the entire cylinder stroke. This is useful finding ovaled and taper cylinders. Leak down tests cylinder, head gasket, and valve problems.

Harbor freight offers two different version. It is the cheaper one that I use.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=cylinder leak down tester

Hammermechanicman said:

Sounds like a blown head gasket. There is a process to bleed the lifters in the manual you can download from kohler. If you don't mix them up you can put them back with out bleeding. Just handcrank the engine around a few revs before starting.

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The last guy I worked for, showed me a stuck valve. He didn't explain much about it. Something about not being able to squeeze it.

He didn't explain much. Said if he showed me too much, I'd put in against him. LMAO.. The guy was almost everyone's go to. In fact, and he was really good at small engine repair, but most of the other shops only got what he couldn't get to. During mid summer, he was 2 to 3 months out on getting stuff fixed. But that's neither here nor there.
Bottom line, I'm a little scared of this. But hoping it'll be like most things I've come across since I started working on small engine. Scared to get into it. But once I do, I find that it's nothing to be scared about.

I kinda that way about my shop made tools. I simple don't loan them nor do let anyone have a good look either or I would need to get the CIA involved.

StarTech said:

Bt now you should we need the equipment numbers.

To non invasive test an engine you use a leak down tester. Most use 100 psi to test things but the one from HFT that I got uses only 12 psi. With OHV engine if you disable the valve train you can test the entire cylinder stroke. This is useful finding ovaled and taper cylinders. Leak down tests cylinder, head gasket, and valve problems.

Harbor freight offers two different version. It is the cheaper one that I use.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=cylinder leak down tester

Click to expand...

I was just checking these. Seems the one you're talking about is "in store pick up" only. And the reviews aren't very good. The more expensive one, is about $45 to $50 more. But can be shipped. I'm about an hour away from a Harbor Freight. Which isn't no big deal, really. But if I go into a Harbor Freight, with money in hand. I come out with no money in hand. LOL

Do you have any trouble with the less expensive one?

The only problem I had which was my fault is you can not leave it set. You deregulate or zero out the input side before storage and reset everytime you go to use it as initial air shock from the compressor can damage the percentage gauge. I know I destroyed my first one. Not a problem if you are not too lazy.

I don't have going in with money in hand as I don't have any normally with me just the near max credit card. Keeps me from buying other things while I there.

BTW the the closes HFT is 45 min one way for me too even I go to the store that is a little farther as the traffic is a lot lighter; hence, safer to travel. I got a bad habit of plowing into idiots; you know those last second pull outs.

My wife used to hate harbor freight till i told her it was all deductible as a business expense. They have way too much of my money. Toolaholic ya' know

Hammermechanicman said:

My wife used to hate harbor freight till i told her it was all deductible as a business expense. They have way too much of my money. Toolaholic ya' know

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THE first time I walked into a HF store, the first thing I grabbed was my wallet. Sort of like the first time I went to a titty-bar. Luckily my Mrs. Penny-Pincher was there to calm me down.
The 2nd time I went, she wasn't with me. And I over did it a bit. Well, a lot, actually.
But, to their credit, I still have most of what I bought. Some of their stuff is actual junk. But knowing that, keeps me from abusing it. Like the drill press I bought. (and the little 110 welder (on my 2nd trip)), both are still working pretty good. Except for the chuck on the drill press. It likes to pop out sometimes.

BTW, can someone tell me where I put the coil to this mower? I had everything together, In one container. Except the coil.

Do these coils have legs? HA HA HA HA HA

On that drill the chuck is probably a tapered fit. It does take quite pressure to get it seated properly. Now of course I got the floor model (not to be confused with the store's demo one) and haven't had any problem; although, I run it at the slowest speed.

And yes some of their stuff is nothing but junk. Like the tap and die set I brought that was poorly made and the puller set that the forcing screw was off axis, THe first puller set was good until I broke it try to pull off a hub that had torqued to 300 ft-lbs.

PTmowerMech said:

BTW, can someone tell me where I put the coil to this mower? I had everything together, In one container. Except the coil.

Do these coils have legs? HA HA HA HA HA

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PT, Are you pulling a Logan?

Before you start put your brain in gear. Having it in Neutral isn't going to get things done. You it in that place where no one else could find it and now you can't either.

StarTech said:

On that drill the chuck is probably a tapered fit. It does take quite pressure to get it seated properly. Now of course I got the floor model (not to be confused with the store's demo one) and haven't had any problem; although, I run it at the slowest speed.

And yes some of their stuff is nothing but junk. Like the tap and die set I brought that was poorly made and the puller set that the forcing screw was off axis, THe first puller set was good until I broke it try to pull off a hub that had torqued to 300 ft-lbs.

Click to expand...

An air blower, with the 6" nozzle leaked the first time I put air to it. I still have it, for some stupid reason. Maybe just to remind me not to buy another from them. LOL

PTmowerMech said:

BTW, can someone tell me where I put the coil to this mower? I had everything together, In one container. Except the coil.

Do these coils have legs? HA HA HA HA HA

Click to expand...

It gets worse believe me. CRS is a terrible thing!

StarTech said:

On that drill the chuck is probably a tapered fit. It does take quite pressure to get it seated properly. Now of course I got the floor model (not to be confused with the store's demo one) and haven't had any problem; although, I run it at the slowest speed.

And yes some of their stuff is nothing but junk. Like the tap and die set I brought that was poorly made and the puller set that the forcing screw was off axis, THe first puller set was good until I broke it try to pull off a hub that had torqued to 300 ft-lbs.

Click to expand...

I bought the earthquake, not the Bauer, 1/2 battery impact. Had it about a year now. Very impressed with it. Yet to have something it won't take off. Been beating the crap out of the $40 Hercules 4.5" angle grinder. Holding up so far. Threw away the worthless POS air ratchet and air saw. Big floor model drill pres holding up well. The $80 tap and die set is actually pretty good. Got more HF stuff than i can count. Bought myself the US General 56" top and bottom toolboxs last year for Christmas. Use it every day. Awesome box for $1000. HF has Some trash and some treasures.

Hammermechanicman said:

It gets worse believe me. CRS is a terrible thing!

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Hey I resemble that. I can lose my glasses right in front of me. Then have to go get the other pair to find the ones I laid down.

ILENGINE said:

The idle circuit for the carb is under that triangle shaped piece that your boss said not to remove. It should be removed to clean the idle passages.. That pump on the side is the accelerator pump like the old auto carbs from years ago. The white smoke is most likely oil. No unusual for the Command to smoke slightly on start up due to oil seeping past the rings.

Click to expand...

Inside the accelerator pump, the diaphragm didn't feel bad, as stiff as it is (unlike a 2 cycle carb).

According to the new bleed down test, everything was tight. I got some air coming out of the dipstick and the vacuum hole in the one valve cover. But the gauge stayed at at least 10%. The excessive smoke from the oil fill tube is quite a mystery now.

Here's a video of the smoke I was talking about.


BTW, when it's running, the PTO comes on like it's supposed to. But if you try to speed up, the PTO kicks off. As long as I stay at the same speed, I can mow for hours. But once I press it to go passed a certain speed, the PTO shuts off. Obviously, there's no speed sensor on this thing. And it has to be related to the electrical current. So I'm thinking safety switch? The seat switch is disconnected. (does the same with it connected)

With the PTO off, and the hydro pedal pushed about 3/4 of the way down, the PTO won't come on. But, at about 1/2 pressed, it'll come on fine.

I think you are overthinking the smoke out the oil fill tube. Some smoke is normal. it gets a lot worse with a blown gasket. Something to consider. Could the mower be thinking is is going into reverse when you push the pedal all the way down.

ILENGINE said:

I think you are overthinking the smoke out the oil fill tube. Some smoke is normal. it gets a lot worse with a blown gasket. Something to consider. Could the mower be thinking is is going into reverse when you push the pedal all the way down.

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I think you're right on both accounts. The new leak down tester said everything was fine & dandy.

The red and green wire to the transmission are cut or broken off. The end of the red wire is exposed. Without regards to any safety issue, if I tape the end of the red wire, would it allow the mower to mow in reverse, and ultimately solve this? Or should the wires be fixed and reconnected?
PS.. for this customer, i'm going to fix them, just because of who they are. So the question above is for my own personal knowledge.

Try taping the wire won't hurt anything for shop testing. It will work or it won't

ILENGINE said:

Try taping the wire won't hurt anything for shop testing. It will work or it won't

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Yes sir, that's what I did, just to test it. And the PTO stayed running. After repairing the wires and get them back in place, trying to back up, it did what it was supposed to do. Thanks for your help.