Working on a kohler engine, my first one, that will only turn one rotation in either direction before coming to a hard stop. Pulled engine and oil pan, also valve cover and rocker arms, but found no damage, plan on pulling the head tomorrow unless Im going in the wrong direction. What do you guys that know kohlers think the problem is? And while Im here, I looked at parts diagram and did not see a oil pan gasket and there wasnt one on the engine. Does that mean I use form a gasket? What type?
#2
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Can you rotate the engine a few turns with the sump off of it ?????
#3
dfbroxy
Thanks for replying. No, it will only rotate approx 1 turn with sump off. Is it possible one of the lifters is broke and if so are they accessed by removing the camshaft?
Thanks for replying. No, it will only rotate approx 1 turn with sump off. Is it possible one of the lifters is broke and if so are they accessed by removing the camshaft?
I forgot to add another reply earlier ...... I was thinking that a plug came apart and something is in the cylinder stopping the piston to go all the way to TDC ....... If that happens then the crank can't go full over and come back down again to go back up for another stroke whether it be the compression stroke ETC ETC ....
There is definitely something blocking the piston ...........
Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!
#5
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
One more thing to your question on the lifters / tappets....... Yes you can take the cam out and remove the lifters....
I do it all the time on Briggs engines..... Line up the timing marks so the valves are closed... That way there's no pressure on them ................
This engine has hydraulic lifters, so unless you have mechanical experience (or just figure you can get it back together) I wouldn’t remove the cam. There is no sump gasket, us a good RTV sealant when reassembling. What did you find when you pulled the head? This manual might be of some help. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Ko...13-CV14-CV15-CV16-CV460-CV465-CV490-CV495.pdf
When you post back, please include the engines spec number.
#7
dfbroxy
Once again thanks for the response. You are two of the experts I was hoping would respond. So here are todays answers to the mystery. Engine Spec is 21525. When I pulled the head there was so much rust and corrosion it was stopping the piston from traveling more than half way. Cleaned the gunk and used a hone to smooth out cylinder.(needs to be honed anyway) Oiled and removed piston to check condition of rings. Bad news, they are toast. More bad news is that I havent found any online new for less that $75. What are my options? The engine seems to be well built. Much better than new ones. I could pay the money, and whatever else and keep it myself. Or keep the frame and wait for another to come around to repower. Frame is in excellent condition minus the hood. Or part it out over the next year to try to get my $100 back. Opinions?
#8
Scrubcadet10
I cant believe the rings are so expensive.
I did find a set of Oversize rings for 45 bucks.
#9
dfbroxy
Ok here is another question. Are the internal parts from a cv15s interchangeable with mine? Found one close by on a poulen missing a carb and trans trashed. Motor was running before carb was sold. Price is very cheap. Was thinking of putting my crankshaft and carb on it so it would run on my deere.
Measure the piston & bore then order then from Total Seal or Perfect Circle should be around $ 25
However they need the bore, piston diameter width of the ring groves & depth of the ring grooves.
A kohler anything to them would be speaking Chinese/
#11
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Here's a link for some rings ............ 63 bux.......... Some sites are showing it's the piton kit with everything ... That might be why the higher price.....
Here’s a couple of answers and a few questions. You can’t use oversized rings unless you get an oversized piston. Second, you shouldn’t order any parts until you properly measure the bore to see if it is still in specs and not out of round. You need either a special gage or telescoping gages and a mic or calipers. Then to do so properly you do six different measurements. First, is 1/2” down in the same direction as the wristpin. Second, is in the center of piston travel and the third is 1/2” from the bottom of the cylinder. Then you take the same three more measurements 90 degrees from the first three. With these six measurements you can accurately tell if the cylinder is in specs and not out of round. Pistons from a CV15 are different than the CV13. Your crankshaft has the same crankshaft number as a BASIC CV15, but you will need the spec number from the 15, as they may have changed the crank. You say the cylinder needed work and the rings were bad. I suspect that the piston lands and grooves may be bad also. Would be a good idea to check it against the specs in the manual. To me this looks like an expensive project, unless you love the engine and unit. Ask yourself, “Is the cost worth the effort and possible failure.”
#13
dfbroxy
Rivets, Thanks for your input. It hadnt occured to me about cylinder being out of round. I will check this weekend when I have access to my sons tools,(auto mechanic). The piston is in perfect shape. To be honest, the rings looked fine untill I broke them trying to get them unstuck. Price is a concern, I had hoped to get this running as a cheap mower for the overgrown 1/3 acre behind my house and to pull a trailer. I do not want to destroy my zero turn. I like how the motor is made but I dont want to put a lot into it. What you said gave me the idea that before I put any money in it I better go through the rest of it.....ie the carb, coil, rectifier....etc.
