Cajun power
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2023
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- 86
thanks, and I appreciate your feedback. I apologize for not updating this thread more quickly. Please read my reply to BOATMOTER.The diodes that you were alerted to are not a service replacement part
They are embedded into the coils along with the Hall Effect trigger chip.
So do as advised, remove both kill wires from the coils and get back to us.
In nearly every case surging is coused by an air : fuel ratio that is too lean for the engine to maintain a constant speed.
Engine slows down so governor relaxes, throttle opens up engine gets a big gulp of air which sucks harder on the main jet causing what should be a richer fuel mix into the engine ( this is why it accelerates quickly ) .
In the case of surging, the sudden glup brings the air : fuel ratio back to normal so the engine picks up speed.When it stops accelerating , the velocity of the air passing the main jet slows down so it no longer is sucking extra fuel
With no extra fuel the engine is then back into a too lean situation so it slows down which causes the governor to relax which allows the throttle plate to open up wide & thus the cycle continues at infinatum.
SO either not enough fuel is being added by the carburettor or air is entering the engine after the carburettor .
Now back to you.
As you have replaced so many items there is the real possability that one or more of them will be defective or damaged during the replacement.
Very common for defective carburettors to be sold on the sites invented for thieves to sell stolen goods or crooks for selling scrap metal pretending to be good parts .
Two simple tests
1) remove the air box and either apply the choke if you can or partially cover the air intake with some card ( not your hand )
work the governor linkage to open & close the throttle
If the engine stops surging with a partial blocking of the intake then it is definately a lack of fuel situation .
2) Remove the blower housing , start the engine and saturate the region from the throttle plate shaft ( the bit the throttle butterfly sits in ) to the engine with WD 40 from a trigger pack, ( not a spray can ) .
While doing this work the governor rod back & forth to make the engine accelerate hard & back off .
IF you get white smoke from the exhaust then you have an air leak .
Do this and get back with the results
blown head gaskets..both...small leaks. Also see what I replaced them with. solid copper head gaskets with copper spray dressing (permatex). No surging...compression is awesome and leak down is negligible. Probably failed because of bad factory install/design problem with the simple stamped aluminum metal gaskets COMBINED with a cousin who does not listen to good advice and thinks it's just fine to spray cold water on a hot air cooled engine "to clean it off".
I appreciate everyone who gave advice. I read all of your comments and followed many of the suggestions.
lesson for me: start with a compression and leak down test for engine performance problems. before any part is replaced or doing any other troubleshooting. the silver lining is I have plenty of spare parts. and some deeper knowledge of this kawasaki motor.
THANK YOU!