Cub Cadet with Briggs and Stratton motor

[garry6913]

I have a Cub Cadet Lt1042 that was giving me problems. It had a Kohler SV600 20 hp motor in it. It would keep shearing the keyway. it really needs a new crankshaft and flywheel. Near the keyway is a chunk missing and on the flywheel there are a few deep grooves. I have tried JB weld to a epoxy i used at a place i worked we used for motors and pumps and it sealed everything up. Instead of spending about $300 ( $85 used crank and $200something for flywheel) i had a running Briggs and Stratton 21 hp Intek V Twin Cylinder motor. I swapped the motors. The Briggs motor pops, burps, farts, backfires through the carb and muffler. When i do get it running it idles nice but has no power to move. I have put new plugs in it, changed the carb with new fuel solenoid, adjusted valves, checked timing, (now it wont run at all after checking) and drained all old gas out and put in new gas. The motor sat for about 2 years. It acts like too much gas is going into the cylinders but when pulled the plugs they were little carboned up and no gas on them. After changing the fuel i did clean and change the fuel filter and pump and took the carb back off and cleaned it again as a precaution that the gas was bad. When the fuel solenoid is unplugged it sounds better when trying to start. Only thing i haven't done is check compression. In spinning motor over without plugs in it and fuel disconnected you put your hand over spark plug hole you can feel good compression. exhaust isn't plugged either.

 

[Rivets]

You are going to call me a real A$*2&.$, but your post throws up so many red flags that I don’t know if you have the experience needed to make any repairs. I’ll try by asking a few questions in a different way. First, shearing a flywheel key, in your case, is primarily caused by improper torquing of the flywheel nut during reassembly. This explains the damage to both the crank and flywheel. Have no idea of what you mean by deep grooves on the flywheel. JB weld on parts, WAY WRONG. Second, swapping Kohler engine to Briggs, who did the electrical retiring? Third, throwing parts at it, hoping something will stick. From your description I know you have no idea how a carb works. If your carb has a fuel shutoff solenoid, your engine should NOT run when you unplug the solenoid. You say yours starts and runs rough, which makes no sense. Fourth, acts like it’s running rich, but plugs are dry, tells me it’s not running rich. If it is running rich you would see black smoke. Fifth, testing for compression with your thumb is very old school and a DIY guy has no idea of what this is telling them. Sixth, why would you be looking at a plugged exhaust system?

Because I’m hundreds if not thousands of miles away it is really hard to tell you how to proceed. Please explain each of the areas I addressed and provide us with all engine numbers, model, type and code for Briggs engine and model and spec numbers for the Kohler engine. Sorry, but I have to be brutally honest, part of my upbringing.

 

[StarTech]

I see I am not the only getting tired of the Space Cadets here.

I even had one SC to show up at my place at 2am Sunday demanding me to fix his mower right away. When I gave him my rate for after hours Sunday work he call me a AHole and I ordered off the property. Double the rates. He started to come back but got the point rather quickly when he saw my Comanche in my hand...

I just don't some potential customers just because from home they want to think I am available 24/7.

 

[garry6913]

You are going to call me a real A$*2&.$, but your post throws up so many red flags that I don’t know if you have the experience needed to make any repairs. I’ll try by asking a few questions in a different way. First, shearing a flywheel key, in your case, is primarily caused by improper torquing of the flywheel nut during reassembly. This explains the damage to both the crank and flywheel. Have no idea of what you mean by deep grooves on the flywheel. JB weld on parts, WAY WRONG. Second, swapping Kohler engine to Briggs, who did the electrical retiring? Third, throwing parts at it, hoping something will stick. From your description I know you have no idea how a carb works. If your carb has a fuel shutoff solenoid, your engine should NOT run when you unplug the solenoid. You say yours starts and runs rough, which makes no sense. Fourth, acts like it’s running rich, but plugs are dry, tells me it’s not running rich. If it is running rich you would see black smoke. Fifth, testing for compression with your thumb is very old school and a DIY guy has no idea of what this is telling them. Sixth, why would you be looking at a plugged exhaust system?

Because I’m hundreds if not thousands of miles away it is really hard to tell you how to proceed. Please explain each of the areas I addressed and provide us with all engine numbers, model, type and code for Briggs engine and model and spec numbers for the Kohler engine. Sorry, but I have to be brutally honest, part of my upbringing.

It's fine. First off the keyway sheared by my wife hit a root while mowing. The key scored the inside of the flywheel where the keyway sits. It also broke a chunk of the shaft. Second the JB Weld was steel epoxy that has/is used in repairing issues like the one I had with the Kohler motor. Many videos on it. I tried but my stuff was too far gone. As far as the wiring goes,I had to change a few wires but it is mostly the same. Third I never said it ran with the fuel solenoid unplugged. I tried to run it when valve covers were off and solenoid unplugged so it wouldn't start. Every time it has run the solenoid has been plugged in. That is also when yes I put my over the spark plug holes to feel for compression. Yes it is old school, but I was also just looking for any type of difference in pressure. Yes I know a few lbs can make a difference. Was looking for something glaringly different. As far as plugged exhaust it would cause back pressure into the motor causing issues.

 

[garry6913]

I mean if you don't want to help them don't. Working on lawnmowers is not my profession. If you don't want to help people or call them space cadets then don't help them and I will go somewhere else for help. Thought this forum was here for help not to be called names for someone trying to save money

 

[Rivets]

The way you worded your first post really doesn’t help us help you. That’s probably why I asked for clarification. You say you are claiming to ask for help, but as a technician for 50+ years I’ve seen it multiple times where people are unable to understand what we do and how we do it on this forum. We can’t help you unless you provide us with a better picture of what you are dealing with. And you still can’t find any model numbers? Even though I have helped hundreds of people on this forum, your last post confirms to me that I will be of little help in solving this problem, so this will be my last post, unless your attitude toward the people trying to help you, CHANGES BIG TIME.

 

[garry6913]

The way you worded your first post really doesn’t help us help you. That’s probably why I asked for clarification. You say you are claiming to ask for help, but as a technician for 50+ years I’ve seen it multiple times where people are unable to understand what we do and how we do it on this forum. We can’t help you unless you provide us with a better picture of what you are dealing with. And you still can’t find any model numbers? Even though I have helped hundreds of people on this forum, your last post confirms to me that I will be of little help in solving this problem, so this will be my last post, unless your attitude toward the people trying to help you, CHANGES BIG TIME.

My attitude is fine. I asked for help that is all. Instead I get ripped for asking for help. Called different names and I am supposed to find with it? Yeah I have model #'s that I forgot to put in because I was a little upset with the way I was talked too.

 

[StarTech]

Yes some that comes here are Space Cadets sorry but it is the truth; just don't want to listen but want to argue those that are more experienced.

Personally I have never gotten JB Weld to work on anything. Everytime I tried it, it was major disappointment. I got an idea you used a steel key when you replaced the first sheared key and under torqued the flywheel which lead to the damages.

When you changed the carburetor you probably purchase a cheap clone which are to be mostly improper carburetors.

As compression test on this engine it is of no use as the engine has an automatic compression release system. You would need to perform a lead down test. Also when you adjusted you adjust the one closest to flywheel as the exhaust valve. Also you need make sure both rockers are moving the same amount. If they not moving the same then the camshaft has a worn lobe which causes problems.

One other thing these engines have two inherit problems. The ACR on camshaft are bad to fail as is the head gasket. ACR failure is by the lack of movement of the intake rocker as the engine approaches TDC compression stroke. And blown head gasket are found by doing the leak down test and listening at the push rod galley with the rocker cover off.

BTW the first of the model is probably 33.

 

[garry6913]

Your right JB Weld failed. I used Kohler keys. When it first sheered the cub cadet ran fine for 3 years before it sheered. When it sheered I noticed then the grooves and chunk missing. Yes first time I changed the key I didn't torque it down. After that I did torque it down. What was the torque I do not remember off the top of my head. This happened last year end of season. I tried again the beginning of this season to get it to start but it just sheers it. Tired from trying to get it to run I turned to my other mower. That motor ran 2 years ago when it was parked. It kept eating main belts. Yes I would go to tractor supply and purchase belts for it. So I switched the motors. I changed the plugs did the wiring I had to do since I can't afford to buy the wire adapter for it. When finished installing I tried to start it. Of course didn't want to start right away. Did finally start and run for a minute then stall. While trying to start it would backfire through the car and through the muffler. When it stalled it backfired and stalled out. I pulled the plugs and the driver side plug was loaded with gas and the the passenger side was carboned up. I changed the plugs and the carb. Yes I did find a cheap $40 carb and tried that. Once again it took a few minutes then it would run and run beautiful for a few then backfire and die. Try to restart it and it would only backfire. The carb did not fix the problem. It backfired before I put the carb on and after I put the carb on. Thought was maybe solenoid gummed up since it sat for 2 years. Checked valve clearance next valves were out of adjustment (between 4-6). I set them all to 5. That is when I turned it over with the plugs out. I put it all back together and tried to start it. Started ran for maybe a minute then backfired again and died. It backfired through the carb and muffler. Next I figured I would check the timing on it. While I had the flywheel off I cleaned the magnets and the ring. Put it back together and same thing. I think I sheered the key this time (torqued to 150 ft lbs). I ordered keys and won't be here till next week. I did change the gas in the mower, replace the fuel filter and fuel pump.

Cub cadet is a LT1042 with Kohler 20 hp (SV600)
Troy bilt with Briggs and Stratton 21 V Tek Twin Cylinder OHC. 809H

The Briggs and Stratton motor model # is 407777-128-1E

Cub cadet SV600. That is about all I can tell you on the motor.

 

[StarTech]

That changes things as what I was referring to was the 21 hp Single Intek engine. The v-twin is not know for ACR failures or head gasket issues.

Model number correction 407777-0128-E1 Actually was rated for 22 hp Gross.

If no been inside the engine the mechanical timing should be right. Kinda wish the engine was in the shop as I try a set ignition coils as one of them may have failed timing wise. Very unusual to have engine back firing (Intake side) and after firing (exhaust side) at the same time.

One thing to check is the intake manifold I have heard them splitting and causing problem from lean issues. Haven't seen it personally; although, I did have replace one due someone heavy fist tightening the screws attaching it the cylinder heads and warping the flanges.

And have seen worn camshaft lobes on these camshafts.