Cub Cadet RZT 50 alternate decks?

[k_damore]

The original (cheap) factory paint is basically sprayed over bare metal, with very little surface prep work. It is then oven baked dry too quickly which hardens the paint and makes it brittle. Good for a couple of years, then it flakes and peels. Lawn equipment is not painted like a conventional automobile.

The paint is very poor quality on just about every CC that I have seen in recent years. I usually catch them before the rust get terrible and sand them down, then brush paint them with POR 15 (epoxy) restoration coating.

After that, spray them good ole' yellow Krylon paint that is close enough to CC yellow.

Blowing them off with shop air and a long wand works very well and avoids the excess water sitting too long. A leaf blower also works very well.

i've been refurbing the decks first with a needle scaler as it gets thru the rust and flaky paint quick and in tight spaces to avoid removing the spindles and pulleys because those screws always break and ruin the spindle. Then hand scrape or wire brush any leftover flakes, clean with alcohol, then spray with rust reformer and finish with paint. I have used Bondo on occasion to smooth out deep pits or welded areas but not a whole lot. Still unsure how long Bondo would hold on to a deck with all that vibration, but over 5 years haven't heard anything from 35+ tractors i've sold. Also i've stripped the underside and painted with truck bed liner but again haven't followed up or heard how long that would last.

 

[k_damore]

Swapping decks other than the exact correct deck on any mower will involve lots of modification and time, unless you get lucky. The wash port is a total gimmick and doesn’t work.

the deck washing system only works if you use it all the time AND lower the deck to the ground while washing. if you have dried up,caked up grass in there it won't necessarily knock it off. Also remember to raise the deck up when done washing and run the blades for a couple of minutes to dry the underside