Cub Cadet I1042 starter issue and more

[Baiteater]

Hey Gang,
First the particulars...I'm a first time poster with a 2008 Cub Cadet i1042 ZTR mower sporting a Kohler Courage 18 engine. The engine model is SV540S and the Spec. # is PS-SV540-0020. I bought it used from a neighbor who had moved and it's been quite good mower. However, lately it's becoming tougher and tougher to start and now it's just about impossible. If I keep the battery on trickle charge overnight it seems to have just enough oomph to crank it over. The battery shows 12.5 volts static but my load tester was stolen so I'm not sure the voltage under draw but it's new last year and is stored indoors during the winter. When I turn the key the starter engages the flywheel and tries to motor the engine but can't quite make the grade and then smoke comes out of the inside of the starter and it just groans. And often times the starter solenoid does not release and the starter remains engaged to the flywheel after the key is released. If I jimmy with the flywheel just a bit the starter gear will reset into the starter cylinder. The flywheel spins easily with the spark plug removed so there's no seizure or binding within the motor that's readily apparent. With that much information my question is this. Can I reliably assume that the issue is the starter itself and the solution is replacement of that component? I found a replacement starter, part #KH-20-098-10-S, direct from Cub Cadet for $114.04. Are there any OEM suppliers within your collective data base that can do better? Any advice and input is appreciated.

And now for the more...My engine is equipped with the Oil Sentry Pressure Switch. It appears that there's a microscopic crack in the switch at it's leaking oil just below where the electrical tab connects. That puts the leak adjacent to the flywheel and the cyclone effect makes a chocolate mess of the whole engine compartment. I've ordered a replacement switch already but I'm curious if anyone has ever had one of these switches crack. There's no stress or strain on the part and it simply sits there waiting to turn on a light. And now it leaks. Curious.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can provide some insight into my starter issue.

Regards,
Baiteater

 

[logan01]

For a starter directly from a mower manufacturer, that's not a terrible price. Here's an alternative with a year warranty. Sometimes they're junk but I have found most aftermarket parts to be just fine. The only thing I look at with starters, depending on the engine brand, some engines accept both regular and heavy duty starters. The hd starters will typically have a longer length than a non-hd therefore you want to get the maximum starter possible. Regarding the switch, I'm not shocked that through continuous vibrations from the mower that it may have cracked. Normally not seen but it doesn't surprise me. New Starter 19 21 HP Kohler 2009801 2009801s 2009805 2009805s 2009806 2009808 | eBay

 

[Baiteater]

Thanks for the link. The replacement part # matches the Cub Cadet website so it should be compatible. I'll give it a try.

 

[Baiteater]

To be clear, would you agree that the starter is faulty, considering the smoking, etc?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Before you rush out & replace the starter, check the valve lash.
Chances are it hs opened up and the auto decompressor is not working
Can not count the number of times I get a "Can't start" mower into the shop with a new battery , new starter, new switches and all it needed was the valve lash tightened

 

[Baiteater]

My first thought when you said "valve lash" was "sky hook" and "snipe hunting". But I see that's a real thing...who knew? YouTube here I come!

 

[logan01]

As bm1 has indicated the valves likely need adjusting for sure. I'd be surprised if the starter isn't cooked. Hope not. If you do get another starter make sure the valves have been adjusted first. There's multiple ways to adjust the valves. Though it takes a few minutes longer I believe the method where you adjust one valve, rotate the crank/flywheel, adjust the next, etc gives more accurate results, especially for the weekend wrencher. Make sure you locate the correct intake/exhaust valve settings for your engine.

 

[bertsmobile1]

My first thought when you said "valve lash" was "sky hook" and "snipe hunting". But I see that's a real thing...who knew? YouTube here I come!

gee, I thought all you Utah folks were nice clean living church going types :ashamed:

We used to call it tappet clearance in the old days so you can Utube that as well and Valve clearance too if you like.
Chances are you will find a video of your exact motor.
If you are a bookish type person you will find the engine service manual here "K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"

 

[logan01]

gee, I thought all you Utah folks were nice clean living church going types :ashamed:

We used to call it tappet clearance in the old days so you can Utube that as well and Valve clearance too if you like.
Chances are you will find a video of your exact motor.
If you are a bookish type person you will find the engine service manual here "K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"

Now that's funny. That's always my first thought whenever I see anything involving someone from Utah. I think it goes back to the Osmonds. However I was / am highly impressed with Elizabeth Smart. You must be a Yank living down under.:smile:

 

[Baiteater]

Not only a Yank, a Motor City transplanted Yank. Never had auto shop in Catholic schools, though, so I'm starting at a disadvantage. Thanks for the tips, guys.