Cub Cadet GT2542 - Hydro Dump Valve Rod - Bypass

[Buford T. Justice]

Cub Cadet GT2542 - Transmission Release Lever / Hydro Dump Valve Rod - Bypass

I have a Cub Cadet GT2542. The Hydro Dump Valve Rod (747-3417A) fell off in my yard (~2 acres) so I have been searching for it with a metal detector. I haven't found it yet. I don't even know how long this rod is. Anyway, I changed the transmission fluid and filter using Rotella 15w-40 and a Bosch 3402 oil filter. I didn't know there was a purge procedure involving the missing rod so I cannot do that. Now the mower will not go forward or backward. Is there a way to bypass the rod until I find it so I can mow? The rod should hook up to #4 here but I cannot find this plate anywhere...

Cub Cadet GT2542 (14A-2D2G010) - Cub Cadet Garden Tractor (2009 & After) Drive Line Diagram and Parts List | PartsTree.com

 

[bertsmobile1]

Jack up the mopwer and put it on axel stands, front and back so the mower is level.
Start it up , get under and work the control levers by hand to purge the box.
You will need to sip a bit of plastic between the seat switch contacts in order to release the brake without a bodly in the seat.
Although haing some one there, working the forward / reverse pedal will be easier than trying to do it from underneath , done it both ways on 2000 series Cubs.
You can tie wire the lever in the drive position when you have finished.
I have never managed to find a lost control linkage when looking for one and when they eventually get found most are not in a servicable condition .
You are going to spend $ 300 woth of your time looking for a $ 20 part.

 

[Buford T. Justice]

I metal detect for fun so it is no big deal for me to look for the original though I have had no luck to date finding it after searching 90% of the yard.

I tried the controls with the help of another person doing the pedals. Forward and back and so on. The rear wheels never turn unless I hand-spin them. One tire goes forward and the other backward. I guess I will have to order a new rod then if there is no way to bypass it. My understanding is that you put the transmission into neutral via the rod, work the forward and backwards controls a few times, re-engage the transmission with the rod, and work the pedals a few more times and the tires are suppose to turn...

https://www.tufftorqservices.com/EnvEEdefault/FlatHTML/TechInfo/docs/AirPurging.htm

However, I am not even seeing the plate where the rod is suppose to hook up to. Judging by the parts diagram I linked to earlier, it should be near the transmission oil filter right?

 

[logan01]

Would you happen to know, or can you read the tranny label, which model tuff torq you have. I assume what the manual calls the dump vale is the more commonly used term "bypass valve).

Looking at the schematic, see the left end of the rod that you would push/pull?

See where it connects at the "chunk" part of the tranny? It appears that round part with multiple holes will rotate a little clockwise/counterclockwise thus putting it in neutral or engaged mode.

See if you can go one direction or the other to go to neutral. Might require a tool if you can't do it by hand. If you can get to the point of having purged the air, as stated earlier, you should be able to secure it in the engaged position with wire, zip tie, etc.

When you get the rod it looks like it's held in with a cotter pin or other style pin. If so, bend it or whatever's necessary to minimize it working itself out.

 

[Buford T. Justice]

The rod should be around 12" long so it would go past the disc brake (round thing with holes in it). I looks like it hooks up to #4 in the diagram but I am not even seeing #4 on my tractor. If I can ever find #4 and judging by its design, it seems it naturally wants to be in the engaged position whereas pulling the rod disengages it to bypass the transmission so it is in neutral.

 

[logan01]

Gotcha. trying to figure out how #4 engages.disengages tranny. Looking for more detailed illustration.

 

[Buford T. Justice]

OK. The plate the rod attaches to is also missing on my lawn mower. I never took this off in the past so either it broke off or whoever worked on it in the past removed it for some reason. That's not important. I found the button the plate would press in. So I started the mower and had my helper work the pedals as I pressed the button in and out trying to purge the air out of the transmission. The rear tires never move unless I spin them by hand but they spin in different directions. So that must mean the transmission is engaged and pressing the button in is not bypassing it. I am not sure where to go at this point. Still puzzling over it.

EDIT 1...

After puzzling on it, I think I have an answer to the problem. It's the oil filter. For any Cub Cadet model which uses "Cub Cadet Drive System Fluid Plus" in the transmission, it is OK to use Rotella 5w-40 or 15w-40. However, you cannot use a motor oil filter since it will not let you purge the air out of the system. I am assuming this is because the motor oil filters usually have an anti-drainback valve. So you have to use the Cub Cadet Hydraulic Filter instead. For the GT2543, it is part # 923-3014. I used a Bosch 3402 motor oil filter which has an anti-drainback valve in it. It is going to be a couple of hours before the 923-3014 hydraulic filter and some more Rotella 15w-40 get to me. I'll report back with my results.

EDIT 2...

Yup that was the issue. I drained out the Rotella to reuse it, installed the correct hydraulic filter, put the Rotella back in, purged the system, and the wheels are now a turnin'! Here are some alternative filters to the 923-3014 I found, BUT THEY MUST BE HYDRAULIC in order to work...

AC-Delco PF2049
Fleetguard HF6096, HF6164, HF6446, or LF4015
Fram PH2844
Motorcraft FL-268
NAPA Gold 1410
Wix 51410 or 57102