Cub Cadet GT 1554 just clicks won't turn over

[meri0809]

My Cub Cadet just clicks at the fuel solenoid when I try to start it. Here's what I have have done so far. Replaced the following: starter, starter solenoid, and ignition switch. Pulled the fuel solenoid, cleaned and reinstalled. Battery is good, I had O'Reilly's test it for me. There seems to be a bad connection between the ignition switch and the starter. I can jump the mower and it kicks right over. I had a friend come over and test things for me using a light meter. The only thing we found is a dead post in the old ignition switch, that was replaced today, but still getting the same click. I am guessing there is a loose wire or connection somewhere, but darned if I can find it. Any one have any suggestions?

 

[GearHead36]

If the engine spins over when you short across the solenoid, then:
- the battery is good
- the battery terminal connections are good.
- the starter is good.

Check the simplest things first. Is the park brake set? Is the PTO switch off? Does this mower require someone in the seat for it to crank? Some mowers do, some don't. Some have a switch on the discharge chute. Verify that you don't have one of those, or verify that it is working properly. I.e. the chute is activating the switch. Verify that the transmission is not in reverse. Some mowers have a reverse lockout switch.

If all that checks out, I'd suspect a safety switch. Do you have a test light? If so, check to see if 12V from the ignition switch is getting to the solenoid. There are YT videos out there detailing how. Basically, disconnect the small wires from the solenoid, then hook up the leads from the test light to those wires. Turn the ignition switch to the start position. The test light should light up. If it doesn't, then the problem is upstream of that. Either a bad safety switch, bad ignition switch, bad relay, bad wiring, etc. It could also be a safety switch that came unplugged. The wiring harnesses are designed so that the safety switch must be plugged in and working for the engine to crank.

 

[meri0809]

Thanks. The PTO switch is not engaged. The park brake is not set and no, no one has to sit in the seat for the engine to crank over. And tranny is not in reverse. The mower does not have a discharge chute. I don't have a test light, but had a friend come over and test all the electrical connections, including the fuse. The only thing we found was a bad post in the ignition switch. I replaced the ignition switch yesterday. Still getting the same click. It jumps fine, using my battery pack, positive to starter, negative to bare metal and kicks right over. I cked all the wiring as the electrical components were replaced and can't find any sign of bad wiring.

 

[GearHead36]

The park brake must be set for the engine to crank.

Did your friend verify that 12V was getting to the solenoid?

 

[meri0809]

I step on the brake and push the throttle up to engage the auto choke. Yes he cked the voltage from the battery to the solenoid. Good connection.

 

[GearHead36]

Does your solenoid have 3 connections? Or 4? All solenoids will have 2 large terminals for carrying the heavy current from the battery to the starter. All solenoids have a coil, which must be energized to activate the solenoid. Some have one connection to the coil, and some have two. The coil needs 12V and a ground to activate. If your solenoid has one coil connection, it grounds through the body of the solenoid through the frame of the mower. If it has two connections, you (or your friend) needs to verify that there is 12V across those two wires. It sounds like your friend verified that 12V is getting to the solenoid. The 2nd wire could be broken.

I would also try: use your jump box, and put negative to bare metal, positive to each of the big terminals of the solenoid. One of those terminals should send current to the starter. If neither of them cause the starter to spin over, you have a bad cable to the starter.

 

[meri0809]

The solenoid has 3 connections, (2 bolts and one clip). There is also a ground wire. I will try your suggestion in the morning using the jump box and see what happens. Thanks for your help, I appreciate you!

 

[meri0809]

Tried your suggestion re jump pack to solenoid. The jump pack has big clips, I purchased it to jump my 3/4 ton diesel. The clips are to big to reach the solenoid. I am going to bring it to the shop next week see if they can figure out what's going on. Thanks much for your help and suggestions.

 

[rickpaulos]

I had to replace one of the battery cables that connects to the solenoid. For some reason one terminal kept dissolving the bolt & nut and cable connector until I used stainless steel bolts, washer and nuts on the battery terminals. The cable could carry 12 volts but not enough amps to turn the starter. Just too much resistance in the corroded cable. I also took my starter apart and cleaned the armature contacts and lubed the bearings when it acted up. Your new starter won't need that.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Check for a broken ground (black wire) that doubles from the headlights and back to the start solenoid. I have seen that strange wiring issues on a couple of models. Creative engineers create confusion.