Cub Cadet AGS 2130 won't start
- Thread starter dcfrable
- Start date
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 65
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- 24,995
Well here is the deal here.
We have next to no idea what you are talking about unless you tell us exactly what you have .
Engine make & model numbers, mower serial number.
Then properly describe you problem and what you have dome so far
There are a dozen ways to "jump a solenoid"
Next we have specific wording problems with Start, crank catch and fire because every one uses them slightly differently.
Your problem can be anywhere from some simple corrosion giving you a bad ground through to a siezed engine based only upon what you have said.
Start by taking the blower housing off to watch what the starter actually does.
While the blower housing is in your hands see if you can find some numbers on there , it really helps us
Explain what you see as if you were talking to a blind person.
It is a free forum, you are not charged by the word so there is no such thing as "too much information"
Now if you don't want to pay it that way, here is the how to diagnose starter problems 101 written for a poster with a ZTR..
\Before you start, pull the spark plug & try to rotate the engine by hand.
No use checking the electrics if you have a hydraulic lock, seized engine or jambed belt overloading the stater motor.
Assuming the engine turns freely.
I like to start from the starter motor and go backwards .
Do the following 5 tests, regardless of the results from an or all of them as there can be more than one problem and you want to isolate where the problem lies.
Elimination of individual parts is important so you know by the end, the battery, solenoid & heavy power circuits are all in good order.
1) try to jump the starter motor directly from your car or truck.
Starter turns = starter good
2) do the same directly from the mowers battery
Starter turns = mower battery good
No turn = duff battery, recharge it & try again.
3) check for voltage ( + 12V ) at the solenoid trigger wire with the key in start position
3a) same with ground trigger wire ( 4 wire solenoid ) or body of solenoid ( 3 wire solenoid)
( I like to test V from the battery hot terminal to ground terminal rather than ohms as they give funny readings )
4) leave ground jumper in place ( from step 2 ) & try key start.
Starter turns = power connection good but ground connection suspect ( most common )
Confirm it by trying again, extra ground removed
I run a secondary ground from the grounding bolt to one of the starter mounting bolts & paint over both with liquid electrical tape.
5) Remove the trigger ( thin ) wire / wires from the solenoid.
Ground one & bridge from the hot terminal to the other.
Starter cranks = solenoid good.
Solenoid is not polarity sensitive, BUT THE WIRING IS so make sure you remove the thin control wires.
Note a thinner wire on the hot terminal is not a control wire. It is the main power feed to the mower.
From here on things become very mower dependant as starting circuits are getting changed all the time.
Basically the power goes in a loop from the hot side of the solenoid ( saves wire, no other reason ) through the fuse to the B terminal on the key switch then to the PTO switch then to the parking brake switch then to the solenoid trigger switch , easy peasy after you grow the 3rd arm. Use a test lamp and follow the power.
However a lot of mowers with a 4 pole solenoid, run a secondary ground control circuit to the ground solenoid wire through the lap bars.
Then to stop this interfearing with the normal safety function of the ground kill, it goes to a relay with the ground as the switched connection.
These are a PIA as the + control wire to the relay comes from the power loop above and the ground side of the control comes via the normal cut out functions of the lap bars.
Be very careful because if you have a system like this and accidentally send 12V down the ground loop you can fry the magnetos on some circuits.
We have next to no idea what you are talking about unless you tell us exactly what you have .
Engine make & model numbers, mower serial number.
Then properly describe you problem and what you have dome so far
There are a dozen ways to "jump a solenoid"
Next we have specific wording problems with Start, crank catch and fire because every one uses them slightly differently.
Your problem can be anywhere from some simple corrosion giving you a bad ground through to a siezed engine based only upon what you have said.
Start by taking the blower housing off to watch what the starter actually does.
While the blower housing is in your hands see if you can find some numbers on there , it really helps us
Explain what you see as if you were talking to a blind person.
It is a free forum, you are not charged by the word so there is no such thing as "too much information"
Now if you don't want to pay it that way, here is the how to diagnose starter problems 101 written for a poster with a ZTR..
\Before you start, pull the spark plug & try to rotate the engine by hand.
No use checking the electrics if you have a hydraulic lock, seized engine or jambed belt overloading the stater motor.
Assuming the engine turns freely.
I like to start from the starter motor and go backwards .
Do the following 5 tests, regardless of the results from an or all of them as there can be more than one problem and you want to isolate where the problem lies.
Elimination of individual parts is important so you know by the end, the battery, solenoid & heavy power circuits are all in good order.
1) try to jump the starter motor directly from your car or truck.
Starter turns = starter good
2) do the same directly from the mowers battery
Starter turns = mower battery good
No turn = duff battery, recharge it & try again.
3) check for voltage ( + 12V ) at the solenoid trigger wire with the key in start position
3a) same with ground trigger wire ( 4 wire solenoid ) or body of solenoid ( 3 wire solenoid)
( I like to test V from the battery hot terminal to ground terminal rather than ohms as they give funny readings )
4) leave ground jumper in place ( from step 2 ) & try key start.
Starter turns = power connection good but ground connection suspect ( most common )
Confirm it by trying again, extra ground removed
I run a secondary ground from the grounding bolt to one of the starter mounting bolts & paint over both with liquid electrical tape.
5) Remove the trigger ( thin ) wire / wires from the solenoid.
Ground one & bridge from the hot terminal to the other.
Starter cranks = solenoid good.
Solenoid is not polarity sensitive, BUT THE WIRING IS so make sure you remove the thin control wires.
Note a thinner wire on the hot terminal is not a control wire. It is the main power feed to the mower.
From here on things become very mower dependant as starting circuits are getting changed all the time.
Basically the power goes in a loop from the hot side of the solenoid ( saves wire, no other reason ) through the fuse to the B terminal on the key switch then to the PTO switch then to the parking brake switch then to the solenoid trigger switch , easy peasy after you grow the 3rd arm. Use a test lamp and follow the power.
However a lot of mowers with a 4 pole solenoid, run a secondary ground control circuit to the ground solenoid wire through the lap bars.
Then to stop this interfearing with the normal safety function of the ground kill, it goes to a relay with the ground as the switched connection.
These are a PIA as the + control wire to the relay comes from the power loop above and the ground side of the control comes via the normal cut out functions of the lap bars.
Be very careful because if you have a system like this and accidentally send 12V down the ground loop you can fry the magnetos on some circuits.