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I can’t seem to get a good handle on the diameter of the crankshaft where the drive pulley and electric clutch are bolted into it. It appears to be 4 5/16” long based on my measurement but I can’t determine if it’s a 1” or 1 1/8” diameter crankshaft?

Thanks

1 inch unless you have the Donaldson style air cleaner which has 1 1/8 inch.
Your manual. Search for cv20.

https://www.kohler-engine-parts.ope..._page=document_general_info&products_id=34596

Tha is for your reply. I did pull up that manual and it does show that diameter at 1”. But it also shows the length of the PTO shaft at 3.321”. Mine is 4 5/16” or 4.312” which is an inch or so longer than the diagram reflects?

Thanks again....

In the front section should be the specifications & dimensions.
There you will see that the shaft length is measured from the base height of the engine ( mower floor if you like ) and not the lip of the oil seal which can add a lot to the length..
Having said that all mower engine companies will make custom cranks if the factory orders enough units.
That is where the second & third parts of the model number come in handy, but only if you have access to the B & S Power Portal.

Yes I agree with Bert........... There are different size cranks for different applications on engines..... Example, You have a riding mower, so your crank is going to be 3 5/32 inch long.... Briggs, kohlers, kawasakis all have that standard size shaft for riding mowers on vertical shaft engines.....

Pressure washers, common types are vertical shaft also with a 5 or 6 HP engine..... Those shafts or short and not even good to put on a push mower frame..... It won't cut low enough......

Even though you have a Kohler engine you still have a 1 inch X 3 5/32 shaft or real close to 5/32...........

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

The only correct way to know what you have is to remove everything off the shaft and measure it.

The Kohler dealer website shows your crankshaft is a 1-1/8 by 4.3 inches.

Thanks to everyone for the replies and information.

ILENGINE said:

The Kohler dealer website shows your crankshaft is a 1-1/8 by 4.3 inches.

Click to expand...

That's odd my service manual for that engine shows 3.3 inches........

Either way he has a riding mower so if he is replacing the engine it's a win win situation if he's going with a Briggs or ??

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

That's odd my service manual for that engine shows 3.3 inches........

Either way he has a riding mower so if he is replacing the engine it's a win win situation if he's going with a Briggs or ??

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Click to expand...

I looked it up on Kohlerplus by spec number, went to the crankshaft parts diagram, and clicked on the attachment icon and it pulled up the picture of the diagram with the dimensions.

Not sure if I’m going to replace it or rebuild it. I’m not particularly savy on what engines might bolt back onto the frame without much trouble and it’s been a very long time since I’ve been inside an engine. I’m sort of in between a rock and a hard place trying to decide on how I’m going to proceed.

But again, I do appreciate the responses.

Any engine will bolt on being Briggs, Kawi, Kohler, ETC ETC........ When the pulley is off you can measure the shaft with a tape or some calipers, you can hand make calipers and then transfer that to a piece of paper then measure with a ruler.......

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Boudreaux. So, basically any motor of this HP or close to it is drilled and tapped sufficiently for universal mounting on that plate the engine is bolted to? Or something like that? If true that would be great! I would just need to find a motor with the right PTO shaft and bolt it all back together? That sounds too easy....

Thanks

Toltec said:

Boudreaux. So, basically any motor of this HP or close to it is drilled and tapped sufficiently for universal mounting on that plate the engine is bolted to? Or something like that? If true that would be great! I would just need to find a motor with the right PTO shaft and bolt it all back together? That sounds too easy....

Thanks

Click to expand...

That is correct ...... Even if your shaft is 1 1/8 inch you can use a Briggs or other with a 1 inch shaft..... You just have to swap out pulley or electric clutch.......

I do quite a few repowers here at my shop.... I have a very low overhead so I can save most people money, I even have engines and parts delivered to peoples doors that live out of state......

Toltec............ What does your air filter look like ????? The big round one on top of the engine or the flat one on the side ????

Got my curiosity up...... That question was asked earlier in the first couple post I think......

Plus Tard............

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Toltec............ What does your air filter look like ????? The big round one on top of the engine or the flat one on the side ????

Got my curiosity up...... That question was asked earlier in the first couple post I think......

Plus Tard............

Click to expand...

IPL shows a short round donut style filter that is high mounted, so the air filter cover faces up instead of forward, like most vertical Kohler cammand that are in the cylinder V.

Must have missed that question on the air filter. It’s on the side. I would characterize it as being on the front of the engine when looking at the mower from the front. It’s a circular paper filter with a foam ring around it.

Either way you go, you will have to remove the pulley/clutch etc.
Why not do that first and measure?
Why do you think that you need a new engine?

Engine is off the mower. I just today measured the diameter of the shaft and it’s 1 1/18” and it’s either 4 5/16”or 4 3/8” long. It started smoking and consuming quite a bit of oil. If spark plugs are a clue it’s burning oil in the right front cylinder.

Pull the head on that side, look for a bad head gasket. Just pull the head and look.

Ok. Will do Fish. Thanks.

ILENGINE said:

IPL shows a short round donut style filter that is high mounted, so the air filter cover faces up instead of forward, like most vertical Kohler cammand that are in the cylinder V.

Click to expand...

Yeah I got on Kohler Plus also and looked at the IPL's and they showed the xtra heavy duty filter engines at 1 1/8 and the front mounted filters at 1 inch..... That's why I was curious about it........

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

That’s odd Boudreaux since I did put a caliper on it and it measured 1 1/8” and it has that front mounted air filter? Anyway, I’m going to pull that head like Fish suggested and look at the head gasket and go from there.

Thanks

Ok. I pulled that head today but I really don't see any issue with the gasket? But, I'm not an expert. I'm posting a couple of pics to see if any of you experienced folks can see anything... Thanks

Picture 1 and 3 top right corner next to the bolt hole is what looks like a burnt head gasket between the cylinder wall and the oil return passage for the head.

Since you want to replace the engine, pull the other head and post pics...

ILENGINE said:

Picture 1 and 3 top right corner next to the bolt hole is what looks like a burnt head gasket between the cylinder wall and the oil return passage for the head.

Click to expand...

Plus 1^^^.

That would certainly cause oil intrusion & burning issues. Easy enough fix..

That one valve has some serious pitting on the top of it... ???

I'll pull it tomorrow and post some pics. Don't necessarily want to replace it if Head Gaskets and Valve cleanup is a solution.

Thanks again to all of you who reply with your knowledge on this matter.

Toltec said:

I'll pull it tomorrow and post some pics. Don't necessarily want to replace it if Head Gaskets and Valve cleanup is a solution.

Thanks again to all of you who reply with your knowledge on this matter.

Click to expand...

If you have a "Leak down" tester, that would save you pulling the other head and finding any leakage (and where it's coming from).

I have a compression gauge that screws into a cylinder if that’s the same thing?

No a compression test is for the cylinder compression only...... A leakdown test is for the rings, valves and head gaskets ETC..........

It works with a compressor.....

I'll throw a link up in a lil bit ..........

here's a video on a Harbor Freight model leak down tester.......... The video shows how and what to look for and listen for ..........

A very useful tool in our shop saving time for sure...........

https://youtu.be/jc3j4ShE-tk

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

here's a video on a Harbor Freight model leak down tester.......... The video shows how and what to look for and listen for ..........

A very useful tool in our shop saving time for sure...........

https://youtu.be/jc3j4ShE-tk

Click to expand...

Yup ^^^.

It'll also give you an idea of the INTERNAL health of your engine overall.

That little head gasket leak, doing a compression test, wouldn't leak out fast enough and would show GOOD compression.

The leak down tester, you would see on the gauge how mush it's leaking and from where.


From a very old Stihl chain saw, two stroke, (partial basket case) I worked on:
(major leakage)

Sorry for the long delay in posting an update on my project but have been otherwise busy.

I decided to replace the head gasket and clean up those valves. Engine is back running great!

Thanks again to everyone e who took time to help me on this matter. What a great forum!

Glad that it was all that you needed!!

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Any engine will bolt on being Briggs, Kawi, Kohler, ETC ETC........ When the pulley is off you can measure the shaft with a tape or some calipers, you can hand make calipers and then transfer that to a piece of paper then measure with a ruler.......

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Click to expand...

My old cv20s blew a connecting rod. Was 1 inch by about 4. Bought used engine and shaft is 1 and 1/8 . I cannot find a pto clutch that will fit my scag sthm. Any words of wisdom? Thanks

All of the PTO clutch makers have an on line catalogue
All of them make a range of 1.125" clutches because the commercial engine have a 1.125" crank ( one reason why they are more expensive )
The really tricky bit is getting one with the same connectors as yours.

look at your clutch.
It will have the makers name , model & serial numbers on it

OR

23 pages of 1.125" PTO clutches
Find one with the same size pulley and a pig tail so you can wire it into your mower
Check the photos to see what anchoring holes / slots it has
You can just about put any one one
The really important thing is the pulley size as that controls the blade speed
Check the application ( right click the More button ) and see what it is fitted to
Find one that is used for the same size or next larger deck size as yours.