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CraftsmanT-130 18.5 HP Briggs & Stratton Issue

#1

D

DLCarson

I am a self-employed lawn mower repairman, and have been repairing small engine equipment for many years. I am currently working on a Craftsman T130 that is causing me major grief! Following is the issue with the mower, along with parts I have replaced:
When I try to start the engine, it tries to start, but will NOT spin completely over. It acts like the engine is locked up, but engine is NOT locked up. Then the starter gets warm/hot along with the cable end at starter.
I am next going to check the forward-neutral-reverse switch and plunger on the rear-end for shifting rod.
I have replaced the following parts:
1) two new belts 5) new positive battery cable terminal
2) two new safety switches (brake and blade engaged) 6) new starter
3) fixed park brake with new "park index control" 7) charged battery
4) New solenoid
ALL TIPS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!





#2

I

ILENGINE

From your description most likely one or both of the following causes. Assuming OHV the valve are out of adjustment preventing the ACR from working or the ACR on the camshaft is broke and laying in the bottom of the engine sump waiting to do damaged to other vital parts leading to factory smoke release. Getting us the model number info will allow us to assist you better.


#3

R

Rivets

First thing I would check is valve clearance.


#4

Craftsman Garage

Craftsman Garage

ILENGINE said:
That's a broken compression release for sure. Happened to every Briggs single cylinder I've ever had, and I have seen the same symptoms. It is somewhat easy to replace, just remove lower sump and it's right there on top. Usually a one hour job for me. I'm a self-employed mower mechanic as well... I'm 14 :)
Click to expand...


#5

R

Rivets

Craftsman, please tell me where in this thread you found the IL quote you posted? I hope you didn’t do that confusing post on purpose. It helps no one.


#6

I

ILENGINE

@Craftsman Garage In my experience not always. You get some were the intake clearance is sometimes as high as .020. So valve adjustment is the first thing to check, and then check for compression release since it doesn't work with too wide of valve clearances.


#7

I

ILENGINE

Rivets said:
Craftsman, please tell me where in this thread you found the IL quote you posted? I hope you didn’t do that confusing post on purpose. It helps no one.
Click to expand...
Rivets, Craftsman is having issues when he quotes somebodies post it replaced the quote with his own text. So it gives the appearance of quoting something that was never typed by the quoted person

Rivets said:
Kind of like this.
Click to expand...


#8

Craftsman Garage

Craftsman Garage

ILENGINE said:
Thanks ILENGINE, rivets, he is right. I got a new computer and it craps up my replies. I've tried everything, it's my only way of posting. It has been driving me nuts.🤬
Click to expand...


#9

R

Rivets

Ok, I understand, but you can see how confusing it looks.


#10

Craftsman Garage

Craftsman Garage

I do, I'm sorry for the confusion


#11

I

ILENGINE

Craftsman, I suspect when you hit reply to somebodies post it is highlighting what is in the quote box, and then when you start typing it overwrites the entire quote. What is should look like is the quote in a colored box and then your cursor below that box.


#12

D

DLCarson

Rivets said:
First thing I would check is valve clearance.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I'll check this.


#13

D

DLCarson

Rivets said:
First thing I would check is valve clearance.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I'll check this.


#14

D

DLCarson

ILENGINE said:
From your description most likely one or both of the following causes. Assuming OHV the valve are out of adjustment preventing the ACR from working or the ACR on the camshaft is broke and laying in the bottom of the engine sump waiting to do damaged to other vital parts leading to factory smoke release. Getting us the model number info will allow us to assist you better.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your assistance on this. I will supply more model number information. It is a 2019, T-130, 540 cc, 18.5 gross HP Briggs & Stratton riding lawn mower. Briggs & Stratton "features" is listed on the top of the engine. Also stated on top of the engine is "cranks like a car, no choke starting." I can take the spark plug out with a hot battery and it will spin over every time. Then when I put the spark plug back in, with a hot battery, it will NOT spin over, acting like the motor is locked up. I then hook the battery charger to the battery, and it will then spin over and crank every time and runs good. I'm thinking I may need a larger cranking Amp battery?? Any suggestions?
Thank you!


#15

Craftsman Garage

Craftsman Garage

Yes, sometimes have been able to bypass the broken compression release with a new, stronger battery. It won't fix the broken camshaft though.


#16

StarTech

StarTech

Craftsman Garage said:
Yes, sometimes have been able to bypass the broken compression release with a new, stronger battery. It won't fix the broken camshaft though.
Click to expand...
But in the long it will destroy the starter.

Briggs did recently make a design change on the camshafts in these 310000 series engines. Or at least the last camshaft I received had a design change to the ACR.


#17

Craftsman Garage

Craftsman Garage

Did it look more durable?


#18

StarTech

StarTech

Craftsman Garage said:
Did it look more durable?
Click to expand...
Can't really tell other than the lifter/tappet is not hitting it as much. They hour glassed the pin so the only contact is at the camshaft lobe.


#19

R

RevB

DLCarson said:
I am a self-employed lawn mower repairman, and have been repairing small engine equipment for many years. I am currently working on a Craftsman T130 that is causing me major grief! Following is the issue with the mower, along with parts I have replaced:
When I try to start the engine, it tries to start, but will NOT spin completely over. It acts like the engine is locked up, but engine is NOT locked up. Then the starter gets warm/hot along with the cable end at starter.
I am next going to check the forward-neutral-reverse switch and plunger on the rear-end for shifting rod.
I have replaced the following parts:
1) two new belts 5) new positive battery cable terminal
2) two new safety switches (brake and blade engaged) 6) new starter
3) fixed park brake with new "park index control" 7) charged battery
4) New solenoid
ALL TIPS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!
Click to expand...
Ever test the battery? Charging a battery with sketchy internals does nothing.


#20

F

fordman55

have you checked the starter?? it may have a dead spot on the armature where it will crank , then quit. relase the key and try again and it cranks, or keep trying key , ive had it where the cable and starter get warm to hot after trying for a few minutes, because of the brushes or comutator on the armature not being in good shape. maybe try another starter? or have this one rebuilt?


#21

mpqualdie

mpqualdie

DLCarson said:
I am a self-employed lawn mower repairman, and have been repairing small engine equipment for many years. I am currently working on a Craftsman T130 that is causing me major grief! Following is the issue with the mower, along with parts I have replaced:
When I try to start the engine, it tries to start, but will NOT spin completely over. It acts like the engine is locked up, but engine is NOT locked up. Then the starter gets warm/hot along with the cable end at starter.
I am next going to check the forward-neutral-reverse switch and plunger on the rear-end for shifting rod.
I have replaced the following parts:
1) two new belts 5) new positive battery cable terminal
2) two new safety switches (brake and blade engaged) 6) new starter
3) fixed park brake with new "park index control" 7) charged battery
4) New solenoid
ALL TIPS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!
Click to expand...
The compression release on your camshaft is broken so it won't release the compression, not allowing it to spin past the compression stroke. It's an easy fix if your mechanically adept. Remove the motor, drain the oil, flip it over and remove the bottom, change the camshaft and lower seal (on the removed engine bottom) and then put it back together. Adjust the valve rockers. Take painstaking time to ensure all of the shrapnel from the broken compression release is cleaned out of the motor. Take your time to clean the crankshaft and put the bottom back on as well or the seal will leak when done.


#22

R

Rivets

MP, replacing a cam shaft is not as easy as you describe. You forgot to mention that the valve clearance will need to be checked and adjusted after assembly. For the inexperienced guy this can be a challenge.


#23

StarTech

StarTech

Not mentioning some seals tend to roll if a seal installation sleeve is not use allowing the gather spring to become dislodge causing oil leakage.


#24

R

RevB

DLCarson said:
Thank you for your assistance on this. I will supply more model number information. It is a 2019, T-130, 540 cc, 18.5 gross HP Briggs & Stratton riding lawn mower. Briggs & Stratton "features" is listed on the top of the engine. Also stated on top of the engine is "cranks like a car, no choke starting." I can take the spark plug out with a hot battery and it will spin over every time. Then when I put the spark plug back in, with a hot battery, it will NOT spin over, acting like the motor is locked up. I then hook the battery charger to the battery, and it will then spin over and crank every time and runs good. I'm thinking I may need a larger cranking Amp battery?? Any suggestions?
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Damn little amps needed to crank a no compression engine. Much more amps required to spin one with compression....hence engines that have an auto compression release.

Jumper the battery with another known good battery....use your car, truck, tractor....anything to provide more capacity. That will inform your decision and further refine your search as to faulty component(s).


#25

mpqualdie

mpqualdie

Rivets said:
MP, replacing a cam shaft is not as easy as you describe. You forgot to mention that the valve clearance will need to be checked and adjusted after assembly. For the inexperienced guy this can be a challenge.
Click to expand...
I said if your mechanically adept, and also said to adjust the valve rockers when done. But for someone that has mechanical ability it is a fairly simple repair. And there is a lot of info and videos online that can help you through it as well.


#26

J

johnny7

try a different browser, Firefox, Chrome, Edge. I run into some sites that just work better with a different browser.


#27

T

tractorbeast

Adjust valves. I added a larger ground wire on my sons 18.5 hp


#28

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Rivets said:
MP, replacing a cam shaft is not as easy as you describe. You forgot to mention that the valve clearance will need to be checked and adjusted after assembly. For the inexperienced guy this can be a challenge.
Click to expand...
Folks who don't run a shop don't understand how much time it takes to the job properly. And guarantee the work.


#29

S

STEVES

DLCarson said:
Thank you for your assistance on this. I will supply more model number information. It is a 2019, T-130, 540 cc, 18.5 gross HP Briggs & Stratton riding lawn mower. Briggs & Stratton "features" is listed on the top of the engine. Also stated on top of the engine is "cranks like a car, no choke starting." I can take the spark plug out with a hot battery and it will spin over every time. Then when I put the spark plug back in, with a hot battery, it will NOT spin over, acting like the motor is locked up. I then hook the battery charger to the battery, and it will then spin over and crank every time and runs good. I'm thinking I may need a larger cranking Amp battery?? Any suggestions?
Thank you!
Click to expand...
As stated, adjust the valves first, then if not fixed continue with next step/question. FYI,Those are not the model numbers.


#30

T

TobyU

mpqualdie said:
I said if your mechanically adept, and also said to adjust the valve rockers when done. But for someone that has mechanical ability it is a fairly simple repair. And there is a lot of info and videos online that can help you through it as well.
Click to expand...
Yes, I've done it before on the tailgate of a customer's pickup truck in their driveway and from the time we rolled the lawn mower out of his garage, took the engine off, popped the bottom sump off, cleaned everything out, cleaned off all the old gasket stuck to both sides, replace the camshaft, put it all back together, adjusted valves and put it back on his machine and had it running.... It was about 1 hour and 14 minutes.
I could probably do one a little faster if I needed to but normally I'm talking to the customer and educating them on certain things etc so I take more like an hour 30 to an hour 45 in a situation like that.
Once you've done your first one it's pretty simple.


#31

S

slomo

DLCarson said:
Following is the issue with the mower, along with parts I have replaced:
Click to expand...
Should of stated what you have TESTED. I'm listening to you so let's roll.
DLCarson said:
When I try to start the engine, it tries to start, but will NOT spin completely over. It acts like the engine is locked up, but engine is NOT locked up.
Click to expand...
Typical issue is valve lash is out of spec. Would start there first. Next would be hydrolocking. As is pulling the oil stick and smelling for fuel. Next test/check would be poor battery or control cables and connections slash voltage drops.
DLCarson said:
Then the starter gets warm/hot along with the cable end at starter.
Click to expand...
Now we are onto something. Hot parts means current flow higher than normal. Something is not right here. You need to find out what. What I am reading into is that connection at starter end as you say. Clean, polish and or replace what is needed. This connection shouldn't get hot.
DLCarson said:
then hook the battery charger to the battery, and it will then spin over and crank every time and runs good. I'm thinking I may need a larger cranking Amp battery?? Any suggestions?
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Battery needs load tested. Not talking about putting meter leads on her and reading 12.5 volts. One dead cell and she is all done. Auto parts stores will test for free.


#32

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

slomo said:
Should of stated what you have TESTED. I'm listening to you so let's roll.

Typical issue is valve lash is out of spec. Would start there first. Next would be hydrolocking. As is pulling the oil stick and smelling for fuel. Next test/check would be poor battery or control cables and connections slash voltage drops.

Now we are onto something. Hot parts means current flow higher than normal. Something is not right here. You need to find out what. What I am reading into is that connection at starter end as you say. Clean, polish and or replace what is needed. This connection shouldn't get hot.

Battery needs load tested. Not talking about putting meter leads on her and reading 12.5 volts. One dead cell and she is all done. Auto parts stores will test for free.
Click to expand...
If DL Carson has been self-employed for many years working on small engines, how does he not know how to approach and solve this problem?


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