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Hi all,
My mower has been hard to start for a while. Finally, it refused to restart after shutting it off to refuel. The starter seemed to be dragging so I replaced it, along with the battery. I’ve cleaned carbon deposits from the pistons and heads. Last year, I had a shop replace replace some unseen solenoid or relay in the ignition loop. Not exactly sure what that was. Also installed a new ignition switch. It acts like something is dragging the week old battery down now and all I get is clicking when I turn the key, but the charger says it is at 100% and at 12.5 amps. Any help is appreciated. The grass is growing taller while I figure this out. Thanks

First off sounds like a "week" battery.
Unseen solenoid is more than likely the starter solenoid.
Has anybody checked the charging system of your machine ?
If that isn't working your battery will never get charged.

Also remove the cables and wire brush the terminals, as well as where it grounds to the frame.

Jumping directly from the battery to the starter may help isolate where the problem is.
Walt Conner

Equipment numbers would be helpful too.

First I think the OP is say 12.5 vdc and not 12.5 amps but is he is actually reading 12.5 amp charge current on a 100% fully charged battery he got a bad battery.

If remember correctly there is a difference between "week" and "weak". One is length of time and the other is amount strength.

But I just love customers that try to fix things by just replacing parts willy nilly. It can get expensive fast and can still end in failure to repair the problem. I have one customer a few years ago that had starting problem that replaced starter, battery, voltage regulator, and stator before deciding to bringing into my shop. It turned out to be a fifty cents wire terminal that was the problem. He wanted me to make him whole again on the parts he brought from another shop. Sorry but I didn't because I not paying retail for used parts when I get new parts at wholesale.

Also just because a charger say 100 % charge doesn't the battery is good either. I currently got one here that automatic charger says is 100% charged but tester says it is only at 60% capacity; otherwords, the 425 CCA battery has only a 250 CCA capacity and quickly discharges during repeat starting periods.

Might want to check the valve lash. When I adjusted mine, it allowed the engine to turn easier.

I learned years ago not to trust numbers
So I do as Walt suggested, break out the jumper cables to test the starter using a known good battery, then the mowers battery , then each battery cable .
Too easy to get caught out with a surfaced charged battery with no actual power because all of the paste is sitting on the bottom of the battery case.

yes voltage checks can throw you off track unless the circuit being tested under load. I just last week had to replace a battery cable lug as the voltage would drop out completely out under load due to internal corrosion.