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Craftsman LT 1500 / Model #247.288812 / Idler Pulley Fell Off

#1

D

Dabbler

Hello:
New to this forum and know nothing of small engine repair. Hope this problem is an easy fix.

PROBLEM 1:
The left idler pulley (opposite the chute) fell off.
I was able to recover:
- the idler pulley.
- 2 pulley guards (1 small and 1 large).
- 1 flat washer (.385x.870x.092).
- 1 hex head screw (3/8-16).
- 1 loose ring (think fell out of pulley because there is another ring inside the pulley just like it).
- 1 unidentifiable round ring (about an inch long) which looks like goes inside the pulley and the hex screw goes inside of it.
- 1 unidentifiable small/thin piece of twisted, black broken metal.
- 1 damaged disc which sits on top of pulley (looks like an old piece of (a former belt not current) belt got stuck and bent the top disc to where it can't sit on top of the pulley like it should).

Missing: flangelock nut (3/8-16).

QUESTION:
Is this and easy fix or will I have to order a new pulley idle?

PROBLEM 2:
I need 2 cotter pin bow ties.

QUESTION:
Do hardware stores carry or do I have to order online?


#2

StarTech

StarTech

Most likely the idler pulley bearing has failed. Replacement required. You be pick up the Bow-72 (MTD 714-04040) cotters at your local small engine shop and no local hardware will not likely have these..

my shop has only a few left in stock as I use a lot of them.
1654562425815.png

1654562364192.png


#3

M

mechanic mark

Results

www.briggsandstratton.com www.briggsandstratton.com


#4

StarTech

StarTech

247.288812 (13AN77SS099) - Craftsman Lawn Tractor (2012)​



#5

D

Dabbler

StarTech said:
Most likely the idler pulley bearing has failed. Replacement required. You be pick up the Bow-72 (MTD 714-04040) cotters at your local small engine shop and no local hardware will not likely have these..

my shop has only a few left in stock as I use a lot of them.
View attachment 60833

View attachment 60832
Click to expand...
StarTech said:
Most likely the idler pulley bearing has failed. Replacement required. You be pick up the Bow-72 (MTD 714-04040) cotters at your local small engine shop and no local hardware will not likely have these..

my shop has only a few left in stock as I use a lot of them.
View attachment 60833

View attachment 60832
Click to expand...

StarTech said:
Most likely the idler pulley bearing has failed. Replacement required. You be pick up the Bow-72 (MTD 714-04040) cotters at your local small engine shop and no local hardware will not likely have these..

my shop has only a few left in stock as I use a lot of them.
View attachment 60833

View attachment 60832
Click to expand...
Thank you for your reply.

I went to my local CarQuest and they don't carry, at least this location, cotter bow tie pins and said the hair pin will be fine.

I got 2 hair pins, 1 lock nut, 1 bolt and the idler pulley.

Am I allowed to itemize and price?

Again, thanks for helping.


#6

D

Dabbler

mechanic mark said:

Results

www.briggsandstratton.com www.briggsandstratton.com
Click to expand...
Thank you for the links. I first searched their website and saw the items a bit over priced and wanted to see if I can buy local.

Now, I have to figure out in what order the parts go bc the operator's manual is too difficult to understand and where exactly do the 2 black guards go.

From bottom to top, is the bolt, then the large black pulley guard, then the smaller pulley guard next, then the washer, then the idler pulley and then the lock nut on top.

Can you advise on that?

Attachments







#7

B

bertsmobile1

The belt runs to make a T
In your photo ( Deck 1 ) that means directly from the top pulley to the bottom one so it is outside the brake block, not under it as you have run the belt .
then the flat side of the belt on the right side in the photo passes to the left side of the two idler pulleys, around both of them then on to the engine pulley.
I usually call it like the drawings of male genetalia on the walls of a public toilet , people seem to remember " D### on a dunny wall ".
Belt guard on the top idler points directly to the left so the brake rod passes under it & the belt passes over it, you can see where he brake rod has been rubbing on it so it might need bending up a little so nothing is fouling
The bottom is a little more tricky
usually it will have a tang under the pulley so it only goes flat one way
In any case move the tension arm into the run position ( Brake fully off )
The guard goes in the middle of the arc of contact where the belt runs on the pulley if there is only one of them .
Usually there is 2 and they go 1/3 along the arc of contact at each end


#8

D

Dabbler

bertsmobile1 said:
The belt runs to make a T
In your photo ( Deck 1 ) that means directly from the top pulley to the bottom one so it is outside the brake block, not under it as you have run the belt .
then the flat side of the belt on the right side in the photo passes to the left side of the two idler pulleys, around both of them then on to the engine pulley.
I usually call it like the drawings of male genetalia on the walls of a public toilet , people seem to remember " D### on a dunny wall ".
Belt guard on the top idler points directly to the left so the brake rod passes under it & the belt passes over it, you can see where he brake rod has been rubbing on it so it might need bending up a little so nothing is fouling
The bottom is a little more tricky
usually it will have a tang under the pulley so it only goes flat one way
In any case move the tension arm into the run position ( Brake fully off )
The guard goes in the middle of the arc of contact where the belt runs on the pulley if there is only one of them .
Usually there is 2 and they go 1/3 along the arc of contact at each end
Click to expand...
Thank you for your time. Hope I got it on right, this time. BTW, LOL! Yes, does look like genitalia.

Spent hours trying to find a top image on how the belt is suppose to be installed. I forgot that the manual has 1 on page 25/figure 23. #SIGH!

BTW, will attach deck once I get the OKIE-DOKIE!

Attachments





#9

D

Dabbler

Just want to update this thread.

The blades would not turn after installing the broken idler (a few times due to not knowing the idler assembly order).

Then noticed I put the PTO spring in the square hole and not on the hole closer to the other small pulley idler.

The tractor is now working.

Thanks to all in this thread who offered their time and input.


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