I checked out the YouTube video you sent and it is a great step by step. The valve adjustment is the only only thing that concerns me. Turn the crank 1/4 turn and then use the feeler gauge? Does not seem like an exact science.
I need to find the head torque setting and the valve settings. The YouTube said .003 and .004 for the valves?
Also, I guess you do not use gasket seal on the head gasket? Thanks - Rick
The B&S manual says once you reach top dead ceter, rotate engine clockwise, as you watch the piston drop 1/4". I don't rotate flywheel 1/4", maybe it works the same, I never checked.
Correct, no thread sealant anywhere, but on the valve cover. Sometimes they leak oil and it will smoke up on the muffler.
I need the "model series" of the engine for exact valve clearance specs. Normally they are around .003-.006 where the exhaust side will be larger by .001
I don't think the specs are too critical. It will run or not. If it don't turn over by hand easily, then you have something wrong. Head spec torque is important as well as the pattern to tighten it up. If you bend the head as you tighten it up, or strip a thread your screwed.
Torque tightness is 220 inch pounds
First step is 75 in lbs, then redo at 150 in lbs then final torque @ 220 in pounds. You need to follow the bolt pattern on the 8 head bolts.
Pattern is this as I will try in type what the pattern is....
1st bolt .... 6 oclock
2nd bolt .... 12 oclock
3rd bolt .... 7 oclock
4th bolt .... 1 oclock
5th bolt .... 11 oclock
6th bolt .... 8 oclock
7th bolt .... 5 oclock
8th bolt .... 9 oclock