Repairs Craftsman GT 3000 48" Garden Tractor Runs till get hot then Dies.

[TByrd]

Hello, I'm new to the site and not sure if I'm posting this in the right place. If I'm not sorry. I have a Craftsman Garden Tractor Model No. 917.275010.

Ok here is what's happening. It will start just fine, Runs smooth and Mows great when cool/first started but once it get warm/hot about maybe 10 mins of mowing and it will die quickly. but if you push the PTO/Blade engage button in to disengage the blades and push the Brake/Clutch paddle down the engine will stay running smoothly but if you let out the clutch/Brake it will die if not pushed back down quickly.

I have done the following so far.

1) Cleaned the engine cooling fins.
2) Checked the Gas Cap vent hole.
3) Checked Wiring for worn, bare or broken wires.
4) New fuel filter
5) New oil and is to the full mark.
6) Checked the Seat Switch (seemed to be working)

Hope someone can help. This thing is driving me nuts trying to figure out. :confused2: :laughing: Thanks

 

[reynoldston]

Coil/module getting warm and fails.

 

[TByrd]

Coil/module getting warm and fails.

Wouldn't that make it run rougher after getting warm/hot no matter Moving or Parked?

 

[reynoldston]

Just a suggestion, if it came into my shop that would be one of the very first thing I would look for. As I understand it runs smooth when its cold but when its warm it runs bad, is this right? So if it is right what will make it run bad when warm? Another thing would be a tight valve? loose intake manifold? head gasket leaking by? Without the mower in my shop I can only make a guess. :confused2:

 

[TByrd]

It will run smooth cold or hot as long as the Brake/clutch paddle is push in or locked down. But the problem is once it is hot and you try to move the mower by letting up the paddle it will die.

 

[reynoldston]

It will run smooth cold or hot as long as the Brake/clutch paddle is push in or locked down. But the problem is once it is hot and you try to move the mower by letting up the paddle it will die.

So it is dying when the Brake/Clutch is in motion. Maybe a clutch safety switch or pinched kill wire. Or dose it have to be under power before it runs bad? If that is the case it can be a carburetor problem.

 

[mechanic mark]

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...elNumber=917275010&diagramPageId=&documentId= page 24 in operators manual has specs. for PTO clutch.

http://ogura-clutch.com/pto-intro.php

http://ogura-clutch.com/files/pdfIMP/PTOinstallation.pdf see: Adjustment for wear

Check armature air gap at PTO clutch by following instructions in manual above.

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/24_690_07_EN.pdf engine service manual

 

[TByrd]

will have to check the Clutch Switch in a day or so. It might be, never thought of that one. :shocked: Maybe after the Switch gets warm it stops working properly?? Not sure but worth checking. LOL I forgot to put carb on the list. I've already pulled the Carb and cleaned the jets and everything. Thanks for all the advise...:thumbsup: I will update ya once Ive figured it out. :mur:

 

[upupandaway]

will have to check the Clutch Switch in a day or so.

I beg to differ. the circuit is seat switch to reverse to blade (for recent mowers, not necessarily in that order).
So my point is u r still sitting on the mower so engage\disengauge should not ground the circuit.

10 min is a little long in that it heats up faster but i think it is something expanding when it heats up is the cause. cyl head, valve\rocker need adjustment....

i have seen a bunch of Briggs 12.5hp that did this- idle but no power due to stretched valves. just saying....