Craftsman 38" Cv14 kolher command engine

[Truckdriver09]

I'm having a starting and stalling issue. Yesterday I went to start up the mower and it would not start after about 5 or 6 attempts. I decided to squirt some starting fluid into the carb and it would start, but it would die after just a few seconds (after all of the starting fluid was burned up). I did this for about another 5 or 6 times using the starting fluid and finally, it stayed running. After about 10 minutes into cutting the grass, the mower just died. After only cranking it once, it fired right back up. I maybe made it another hour and then it died again. Except this time, it would not start back up, unless of course I squirt more starting fluid into the carb. If it helps, this mower is equipped with the anti-afterfire solenoid.

I appreciate any suggestions

 

[ILENGINE]

From your description of the problem, it is a fuel problem. The way that I have found to test the solenoid that is failing when hot is run the mower until it quits and then turn the key off and on to see if the solenoid is clicking. sometimes they will only fail for a few seconds. Does the solenoid click when the mower is cold. If not do you have 12 v to the solenoid. If 12v and no click then check solenoid ground ( wire connected to carb to provide ground) if ground is good then replace solenoid.

 

[Truckdriver09]

Is there any way to bypass the solenoid, or will it have to be replaced if faulty?

 

[ILENGINE]

Remove the solenoid plunger. May cause backfiring when shut off which can be annoying.

 

[wildbill]

Remove the solenoid and cut off the plunger on the solenoid. I did this to mine about 3 years ago, it has not backfired yet..... and if and when it does, it will signal my having finished mowing the yard.... and that is a good thing...

 

[Rivets]

Cutting the plunger on the solenoid is a wrench monkey repair and I would never recommend it. If faulty the best long term solution is to replace.

 

[wildbill]

Yeah, then that makes me a wrench monkey, or if I could afford Snap-On tools, a hand tool primate, or in Spanish, una llave inglesa. Now that's a cool word, I looked it up, wish I could pronounce it.

And Mr Rivets is correct to say that a replacement of the part is the way to go.

However, me being retired for some time now, and living on SS, (I call it running on Financial Fumes) barring any safety item, it is hard to spend my dime on a thing not absolutely necessary. It is for that reason I cut the plunger off the solenoid, and passing that idea on just gives a person an option just in case they may also be on a financial :thumbsup:tight rope.

 

[Rivets]

An owner who bypasses any of the safety switches or manufacturer electrical connections should know that if they take the unit in for repair, the service shop is required by law to return all of these bypasses and connections back to OEM setup. If they don't they are from that point liable for anything that could cause injure. It will cost even more for the consumer at that point. Either the repair shop puts it back in order or does no repair at all. Changing a spark plug and not fixing a seat safety switch, even it was not in for that, makes them liable.

 

[Truckdriver09]

Trust me, I am the first one to replace a bad part and do it the right way, but my wife recently lost her job and I am the only source of income right now and it has definitely put a tight squeeze on everything, so I am doing what is necessary at this point.

However, after cutting the plunger from the solenoid, the mower fired up after about 5 seconds of cranking (which is a first), and it was running rough for a few seconds and then died. Tried cranking again and it would only start if I had the throttle set as low as it would go, but even then it was running rough and again died after maybe 5 seconds. At the same time, black smoke was coming from the muffler. Does this mean there is too much fuel going into the carb?

 

[Rivets]

Black smoke means running rich. Could cutting off the plunger be a cause. Possibly. At this point we have added another possible cause to the equation. I would now try this. Try lowering the float (hopefully it is a brass one that can be adjusted) This should lean out the air/fuel mixture on idle.