Export thread

I have a B&S 407777-128-e1 V Tech engine. I screwed the oil pressure gauge to far in which caused a crack. Is there anything I can fill this in with. I don't mind putting a plug instead of the gauge to permanently seal the hole, my gauge light does not work anyway. I hopefully have attached a picture.

Also does anyone know where I can find a new/used sump (I prefer new). The parts book I have states I have to order short block for sumps prior to Aug 2003, mine was built Nov 2009.

Sump part number for after 03082800 is 796307. It is just under $100. Will be over with sales tax in most locations.

Grind a slight V in it and fill it with JB weld and let it cure out good. Make sure that there is NO oil on it before you apply the JB Weld.

ILENGINE said:

Sump part number for after 03082800 is 796307. It is just under $100. Will be over with sales tax in most locations.

Click to expand...

Mine was built before this date, Nov. 1999, (code 991122 ??, can't remember the two letters). I found a couple on Ebay +/-$50. They are for the same engine model number, 407777, but for a different type (0167-E1, code 020502YG) or it does not give type and code. How can I know if it will fit mine?

The sump that looks like mine in the parts book is 699752, it has a round oil bump screen, the 796307 has a rectangular screen according to the spring.

A proper fix is to weld repair, but it requires a bare part and degreasing. I have read two testimonials this week here about JBWeld, but have never tried it. You might search for "shedbloke" in australia who posted here within the week (the forum shows him stateside). He seems to have a lot of experience with JBWeld.

jekjr said:

Grind a slight V in it and fill it with JB weld and let it cure out good. Make sure that there is NO oil on it before you apply the JB Weld.

Click to expand...

That sounds great. If I can't find a replacement, that is what I will use. You say grind a slight V. Do I grind it all the way to the gauge hole (all the way thru), half way, or just on the surface. I can turn the gauge in a little further to make the crack a little wider, but not much. I don't want to break a chunk off. Can I try that to get the JB in it?

Get a new sump, and don't Smurf things down that tight!!!!

I actually worked at a major shop in Louisville, and the "Service Mgr." liked to use an impact wrench to "zip" things in. He boogered up a block like you did,
but he got the owner to get it covered by warranty.

No sorry....

I meant that he got it covered was because he was the service mgr....

I have had blocks welded, don't do it my self but have it professionally done which the last one cost 60 dollars to have welded. It looks like the oil filter seals where the crack is so then it would have to be machined with a mill after so it wouldn't leak. Even if you have to pay for the work you will find it cheaper then a new block and that is if you can find just a bear block. You can try the JB weld but I for some reason don't think it will work because you will have oil pressure on the repair.

hennessey said:

That sounds great. If I can't find a replacement, that is what I will use. You say grind a slight V. Do I grind it all the way to the gauge hole (all the way thru), half way, or just on the surface. I can turn the gauge in a little further to make the crack a little wider, but not much. I don't want to break a chunk off. Can I try that to get the JB in it?

Click to expand...

I would not spread it any wider to risk making it worse. Don't grind all the way through. I would be sure that I was veeed all the way to the end. If I was going to have nothing in the hole I would screw it in before I applied the JB weld I think so that I would not risk moving the material once it is cured.

I once fixed the engine block on a Ford 2000 tractor that was leaking water from a crack. It ran a long time and I got rid of it with it still running.

Make sure you use a good degreaser to get rid of the oil in the crack before you apply it. Also make sure you don't get the grit from the grinding into the sump either. After it is repaired I would flush it out with something like a light oil before I filled it back up with oil and ran it.

What I can see is a machined surface that has to seal which looks like where the oil filter goes and under oil pressure or am I looking at this all wrong. Yes I have used JB weld on cracks with good luck but I don't think you will be that lucky here. There are times you need professional repairs and that is what I am seeing here. I hope you the best of luck with the JB weld and the cleaner you can get it the better luck you might have. Just make sure you don't mess it up to the point it can't be fixed or it will be new engine time.

The oil plug thread is a pipe thread which is tapered and will open a weak fix. I have not read the instructions of the JB Weld, but it is probably epoxy and would require clean base metal, maybe via a primer. I like warning lites and gauges, but maybe you could JB Weld shut and find another spot to tap for a 1/8 NPT for the oil sender, or abandon it as you seem not to miss it now. Look for the JB weld site, it one exists.