Courage 26 start issue.

[JRD1054Cub]

I tried using spray already and nothing

I generally don’t buy parts from Amazon. Strictly from small engine parts depot on eBay.

I tried going the Amazon route before with a starter motor and a few little things here and there, and I’m not interested in buying cheap Chinese crap anymore. There’s a store around me called Marlboro mower that markets Kohler product. If they don’t have what I need, they’ll usually get it. Otherwise, it’s small engine parts depot. And he’s in the states.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Original ignition coils?
Does it have good spark on both cylinders (jump 1/4" gap)?
Flywheel key intact?
Compression test?

 

[JRD1054Cub]

Original ignition coils?
Does it have good spark on both cylinders (jump 1/4" gap)?
Flywheel key intact?
Compression test?

Flywheel key and compression are next on the list. Good spark. Have never replaced ignition coils

 

[JRD1054Cub]

Original ignition coils?
Does it have good spark on both cylinders (jump 1/4" gap)?
Flywheel key intact?
Compression test?

Flywheel pulled. Key intact. No fractures. Nothing. (I was hoping this was the problem). Pulled rocker covers and discovered the top arm on the right valve set was very loose. Adjusted all 4 back to .005. Now when I turn the key, the starter engages, then I get a rapid clicking. Kinda like an electrical clicking sound. Tried again. 1 click this time then nothing. I hooked the battery up to my truck and tried to jumpstart. Same thing.
I just replaced the solenoid last month. The battery was replaced last year. Outside of chucking this thing at the dump, I’m at a loss and fresh out of ideas.

 

[VegetiveSteam]

Flywheel pulled. Key intact. No fractures. Nothing. (I was hoping this was the problem). Pulled rocker covers and discovered the top arm on the right valve set was very loose. Adjusted all 4 back to .005. Now when I turn the key, the starter engages, then I get a rapid clicking. Kinda like an electrical clicking sound. Tried again. 1 click this time then nothing. I hooked the battery up to my truck and tried to jumpstart. Same thing.
I just replaced the solenoid last month. The battery was replaced last year. Outside of chucking this thing at the dump, I’m at a loss and fresh out of ideas.

Got a voltmeter? Set it to DC. Put the red lead on the starter post and the black lead to a good ground. Engage the starter and read the voltage. What does it read? Do the same thing on both sides of the starter solenoid and the small excite terminal at the solenoid. Are all the voltages similar and if so what are they?

 

[JRD1054Cub]

They’re all similar. Earlier in the day, the battery was reading the normal 12.6-13.3.
Came back to it just now and it’s reading 1.7-2.0. Damn near dead. Same at starter and solenoid.
But even with my truck jumping it, it was giving me a steady clicking. Suppose I could get a new battery, but I don’t think that will fix the problem

 

[Hammermechanicman]

First. Remove and clean both ends of the battery cables.

Check battery voltage. Approximately 12.6volts? If not charge battery.

Measure battery voltage while trying to crank engine. Less than 9 volts? Replace battery. Greater than 9 volts?

 

[VegetiveSteam]

They’re all similar. Earlier in the day, the battery was reading the normal 12.6-13.3.
Came back to it just now and it’s reading 1.7-2.0. Damn near dead. Same at starter and solenoid.
But even with my truck jumping it, it was giving me a steady clicking. Suppose I could get a new battery, but I don’t think that will fix the problem

When you did your voltage tests where did you put the black lead of your voltmeter?

 

[JRD1054Cub]

A couple spots. The engine housing, chassis and foot rest. Just to be sure. All read the same. Between 1.7-2.0

 

[VegetiveSteam]

A couple spots. The engine housing, chassis and foot rest. Just to be sure. All read the same. Between 1.7-2.0

Try going right to the negative terminal of the battery if possible. Every place you used still would run through the negative battery cable. Going straight to the negative terminal would eliminate the negative battery cable.