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Couple JD Questions: Deck Rust and Engine Startup

#1

B

bcemail

Hi all, I have a JD L118 with 200 or so hours. I bought it second hand and it was well taken care of by the first owner. I have about an acre, and maintenance includes yearly oil and filter changes, lubrication, yearly blade sharpening, etc. Nothing too technical with the engine, just basic stuff.

My first question is that the engine has always hesitated when starting. You turn the key, the engine catches for a second, then pauses (I can often hear a high pitched noise at this time). After a couple of seconds, the engine starts turning again, and will usually take a couple of seconds until it turns over. I've never not been able to get it to start, and it's always done this. Any reason? Is there something I should do about this or just leave it?

Second question is about the mower deck, and at the end of last season I noticed some rust on the top of the deck near the bag chute, and when I looked underneath there is a sizable patch. Maybe 12" x 6" from what I could see of flaking paint and rust. What's the best way to fix this before spring? I've used Rustoleum rust fixer on some metal furniture before, but wasn't sure if it was durable enough for the mower. And what kind of paint is best?

Thanks for all the help!


#2

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

the high pitched whine is most likely the engine kicking the starter gear out and it trying to re-engage the flywheel. Best option is to let go of the key and let everything stop and try to start again. Starting issue could be related to choke not closing all the way or some other fuel issue.

There is not really anything will stick to the bottom of the deck for any length of time. Somethings may last longer that others. but with the grass and moisture, and the debris that gets kicked up basically sandblast the underside of the deck if it is bare, or the grass will stick and the moisture will peel the paint or other coating loose.


#3

A

(Account Closed)

Re the starter, you may try a little bit of light grease(or oil) on the starter shaft just above the gear:

https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...&creative=81844912724868&device=c&matchtype=e

Agreed as well about the choke not closing fully. You have to get to the choke butterfly, activate it and make sure it's fully closing. Could be a simple cable adjustment.


#4

B

bertsmobile1

The starter helix is nylon so it should not be lubricated with anything other than silicon spray,or a dry lubricant like graphite dust.
Anything that remains damp can & will attract dust which usually causes it to jamb


#5

B

bertsmobile1

For the underside of decks POR 15 is the only paint that will take the abrasion of the dirt that gets sucked up with the grass.
Boo came up with another one a while back he might add it to the list.
In most cases painting the underside will just create more work for you to do.
Blow the underside out with a long air duster on a compressor every month or so to prevent build up, do not mow wet grass and give the deck a spray with WD 40 or similar at the end of the season to prevent rust when not in use.
Similar for the top of the deck but far more important.
Grass accumulates in the hollows & rusts the decks out very quickly if it gets wet.
I hae never seen a deck rust ut through the bottom but have welded hundreds of them rusting through from the top.


#6

B

bcemail

Thanks for the tips. I'll try and follow the choke cable and see if it's closing all the way. For the part you linked, where should I put the grease?
Once the deck has rust is there anything I should do?


#7

B

bertsmobile1

When you take off the engine cover you will see the starter.
It is under the cover for a good reason.
on the top is a white spiral with a gear wheel on it.
That is the part you were advised to lube .
IT SHOULD NOT BE GREASED< the lube must be dry.


#8

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

I wasn't sure which engine is on the mower so I didn't suggest lubing the starter gear, because if it is a Kohler it will have the rubber friction type drive and if contaminated with lube will cause slipping and can create a worse situation than you have now.


#9

M

mechanic mark

Use leaf blower on tractor after mowing or wipe down by hand, hosing off tractor with water will create mechanical & electrical problems. Using water on electrical components battery, switches, relays, etc. pulleys, bearings, engines, deck components, etc. will create premature component failure. Using hands & eyes ensure all electrical connections are free from rust & corrosion & are tight & secure. A machine/welding shop will be able to make deck repair for a fair price.


#10

B

bcemail

When you take off the engine cover you will see the starter.
It is under the cover for a good reason.
on the top is a white spiral with a gear wheel on it.
That is the part you were advised to lube .
IT SHOULD NOT BE GREASED< the lube must be dry.

Thanks, do you think it does need dry lube? Or might I cause more problems?


#11

B

bcemail

Use leaf blower on tractor after mowing or wipe down by hand, hosing off tractor with water will create mechanical & electrical problems. Using water on electrical components battery, switches, relays, etc. pulleys, bearings, engines, deck components, etc. will create premature component failure. Using hands & eyes ensure all electrical connections are free from rust & corrosion & are tight & secure. A machine/welding shop will be able to make deck repair for a fair price.

Thanks, I have tried to get into the habit of using a leaf blower, but didn't know when I first got the mower. I'll avoid hosing it off!


#12

B

bcemail

Going to hijack my own thread, since I don't want to start too many new ones!

Last summer, one of the terminals on my battery kind of blew apart/the bolt hole is deformed/melted looking. Wasn't too old but Lowe's wouldn't replace (?!). I first got a small alligator clamp to hold the wire on the terminal, but the rubber started smoking a bit. Do I just need a beefier clamp? And is any bolt OK for the terminals? The other one looks like it has rusted, but doesn't seem to limit function at all. I just bought standard bolts, so I'm guessing maybe zinc plated?

Thanks again for all the help!


#13

B

bertsmobile1

Going to hijack my own thread, since I don't want to start too many new ones!

Last summer, one of the terminals on my battery kind of blew apart/the bolt hole is deformed/melted looking. Wasn't too old but Lowe's wouldn't replace (?!). I first got a small alligator clamp to hold the wire on the terminal, but the rubber started smoking a bit. Do I just need a beefier clamp? And is any bolt OK for the terminals? The other one looks like it has rusted, but doesn't seem to limit function at all. I just bought standard bolts, so I'm guessing maybe zinc plated?

Thanks again for all the help!

You have a bad connection somewhere that is causing a high resistance .
Check all of the heavy wire connections at both ends of the cables, clean them & make sure the connection is tight.
I overpaint them with liquid electrical tape.

As for the battery, file the terminal flat then drill a pilot hole for a short stout self tapper.
Fit a proper copper battery terminal on your power wire then screw them together and again paint over them.

Your starter could also be going bad.
If it is too hot to touch after a TIMED 30 sec crank then it needs looking at.


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