I am having trouble confirming what the correct p/n is for the Cylinder/Piston/Rings kit for a 125BVX Blower with Mfg Date 2010.
Can anybody please tell me the correct p/n for this Kit? Also what website/source are you using to determine the correct p/n?
I also need Crankshaft Seals which I can verify on numerous websites as correct p/n being 545081815. But I can't find a source document to confirm what the Cylinder etc Kit p/n is. I don't want to order the parts online only to find them to be incorrect p/n's.
I was hoping to find a Kit similar to 545008082 (which fits only Husqvarna 128LD Series, apparently and is priced at $22-35 ) as the price of the Kit vs. separate purchases of Cylinder 587597301 and Piston Kit 545081814 could be is quite lower.
The 125BVX that I am attempting to fix seems to be not drawing enough vacuum to suck gas into the carburetor. This handheld blower defies every fix I can think of. Failure symptom is it runs for 30-60 seconds after priming via bulb, then it quits unless i periodically pump the bulb--all this while on either half or full choke. I have installed all new fuel lines, bulb, filter, carburetor and tested with fuel tank cap off/open. Fuel lines I installed are transparent type so that I can see fuel is not flowing to the carb. I have adjusted coil to flywheel gap so it gets a strong spark. I don't have a compression tester, the auto store i usually borrow from isn't loaning due to Coronavirus. I strongly suspect the Crankcase Seals are bad, especially the one opposite from Recoil Starter side (I am working toresize/upload photos). Cylinder walls are not scored, but piston shows some blowby. I figure as long as i am ordering new Seals for another $22-25 i will replace cylinder and piston and rings if these were available inexpensively as a Kit. That would mean less than $50 to fix this blower (which was given to me for free). The plastic Housing under the Muffler is partially melted--could this be a sign of overheating?
A couple questions: 1) does the blowby/carbon on side of piston look normal? Unfortunately I have no idea how many hours this blower was used. 2) do you think i am on the right track replacing Crankshaft Seals (as well as piston and rings and cylinder which would give me a practically new machine!) ?
I did remove the Muffler and Spark Arrestor Plate, inspection saw no blockage, although I did not run engine without Muffler installed.
Without a vacuum / pressure tester you are poverbally urinating into the wind if you are going to try fixing hand held 2 strokes.
The bushmans ( hillibilly to some ) test for crank case seals is to remove the spark plug then run the piston up high enough to close the exhaust port.
Then pour in a couple of ounces of engine oil .
hold the tool left side down then right side down while slowly rotating the engine to wet both seals .
Tip back upright pull the rope a few times vigerously to expel the excess oil then tip a little fuel down the plug hole replace the plug & try to start .
If it now starts & runs fine then the seals have gone.
They symptom of worn seals is an engine that is near impossible to start cold but easy to start hot ( when the seals are oily ).
This will progress to a lack of power and finally no start at all except by fuel direct down the plug hole.
Most home owners then blame the carb & make things worse for the repairer by messing with the good carb till they wreck it.
A leaking exhaust can melt the plastic even more so if the seals have gone & it is running way too lean so way too hot.
Yes replace the seals hey are not expensive and it is a few hours work to get there which you don't want to have to do again .
I have never seen a full rebuild kit of any hand held, but we don't get what you lot do because we are a smaller market.
What I do see is a lot o Evilbay / Amazone vendors buying bulk aftermarket parts from Chinese suppliers then making up their own rebuild kits .
Thus they can make 5 actual sales for a single selling fee .
Most are incomplete because the vendors they are purchasing the parts from do not supply all of the parts .
Make sure you replace the piston pin bearing.
most crank kits come without one ( hence we can work out whee they have come from ) .
Thanks very much for this info/insight. I like hillbilly/bushman techniques! I would like to do the test you describe --although because the blower is already disassembled I am inclined to just go ahead and replace the Seals. BTW since yesterday I figured out how to Resize and attach photos.
On the 2nd photo please note how much leakage the Righthand Seal (i.e. opposite Recoil Starter side) has vs. the Lefthand (Starter side) in 3rd photo.
Also I wonder if I should go ahead and replace the Piston Ring (based on pattern of Carbon/blowby) or is this not necessary? Unfortunately I do not have access to a Compression Tester (although I should soon break down and buy one--but don't tell my wife who is already complaining that I have "too much stuff". There is no scoring on the Piston or the Cylinder Walls. But if Ring has normal dimensional wearout could this reduce Crankcase Vacuum (as well as Compression, of course)?
I replaced both Crankcase Seals and the Piston Ring (after thoroughly cleaning the Piston with Marvel Mystery Oil. . Unfortunately no change. I also watched most of the Joe Pace YouTube videos. Now I understand that it would be a waste of time to replace any parts without doing the proper Pressure/Vacuum testing. I understand a MityVac toolset is only around $60 but my wife is going to kill me if another tool purchase shows up on our doorstep/ my workbench. So I will either sell this Blower as-is (for a fair price to someone who owns the required tools) or I will set this project aside for at least a couple months, i.e. until my hiatus for tool purchases ends!
I thought that I knew what to do with blue smokes till I stumbled across his videos as well .
A pressure tester came with the business but no vacuum & buying one was a revelation.
Most of the stuff i see has leaking fuel tanks ans about 1/3 of the time that was all that needed to be done.
Now I had built & occasionally raced 2 stroke motorcycles so I thought I knew all I needed to know.
Definately not the case.
If you are going to continue to tinker then make a leak down tester, they are easy to make.
You can use them to test crankcase seals as well as ring condition.
As for tool buying, a friend uses ebay to sell stuff he fixes and only takes Paypal payments
Then whenhe wants a new tool uses his paypal balance to buy it so "no real money" is involved.
He has also allowed his better half to use his paypal account to buy stuff of the web so she now never complains about anything he buys as it has not been at the expense of the mortage or kids education funds
#11
StarTech
First Bert none of us ever knows everything but as long as you willing to learn you are steps ahead of someone that thinks they know everything. I know that I definitely don't everything as it is impossible too many ways of doing things. Just for example is those neon spark testers . I just a member to have one showing spark on a bad coil so he was scratching his head as why the engine would not start. Lucky for him it was a v-twin so just out what if case he swapped the coils and no spark problem moved with the coil. Now that I know that these tester can give a false positive indication I know not to fully trust them.
Must terrible to be married. Probably why I have been single all my life. Even though I still have someone that complains about the money I spend on tools; Myself.
But in this business buying specialized tools is a must; although, you got to buy wisely. When I was told that I need separate vacuum and pressure testers I did my research and brought a MityVac combo unit. I don't use it a lot but do several times a year. Mostly testing leaky carburetors that I am repairing and have a few that was beyond repairs so I didn't buy the repair kits, just a new carb.
As for tools it is a balancing act as what I need and those impulse one time use ones. I got ATV tools that only see the light of day every few years so they are taking space most times but if I don't have them I would need to buy them at the newer higher prices.
If I was in the automobile repair line it would be easy to use the local parts store loaner program on seldom used tools. Even then a couple 50 mile round trips to do add up plus the time lost at the shop. I went ahead just purchase some of the loaner tool sets at a discount as I was using them three or four times a year.
As for the leak down tester yes a homemade tester works; although, a commercial made unit is better. I used a homemade unit for years until I could afford a professional tester. So what you don't have a percentage gauge most time you just looking the source a leak like a stuck valve or blown head gasket. Matter of matter I still my old tester just as much as I use the new one.
