Repairs Control level speed goes back to neutral after applying the break.

Frank2015

Forum Newbie
I have a Troy bilt lawn mower TB42 2015 model #13A879KS0066 The problem I have is that when he stepped on the brake the gear lever moves from Forward to neutral position and sometimes with brakes on to change from neutral to forward the control speed level gets hard . Any recommendation?? Thanks
 
MTD brand mowers have a mechanism that returns the speed selector back to neutral on their hydrostats when the brake pedal is applied. Generally the brake is only used to start the mower, and to keep the engine running when the deck is disengaged, and you get off of it to pick up something. People want to select their speed and then use the pedal to stop and start like a gear transmission, but they are not really designed to operate that way.
 
MTD brand mowers have a mechanism that returns the speed selector back to neutral on their hydrostats when the brake pedal is applied. Generally the brake is only used to start the mower, and to keep the engine running when the deck is disengaged, and you get off of it to pick up something. People want to select their speed and then use the pedal to stop and start like a gear transmission, but they are not really designed to operate that way.

Good Morning! Thanks for the information, for me This is something completely new and different, since the machines that I had previously did not work in this way. then I must assume that the tractor in the way how it is working is normal. I should not worry about that.?? Thanks.
 
If the mower has a heel/toe forward / reverse then you stop it by changing direction.
One of the Troy Bilt varidrives I worked on also put the axel into neutral when you used the brake.
It just takes some getting used to.
We have 2 local mowers, Cox & Greenfields that use friction drives which get damaged if you continually brake while driving in either direction.
It does take some people a long while to get used to driving like this.
Going directly into reverse when going forward seems wrong to most.
Ths is even worse if you have come from a mechanical gear box where you had to stop completely, then change gears before declutching.
 
I have one mower that does this, another that doesn't . When I hit the brake with the one that doesn't I have to remember that when I let the clutch out it will take off, and with a jump if it was in high range. The neutral safety is a good idea actually.
 
If the mower has a heel/toe forward / reverse then you stop it by changing direction.
One of the Troy Bilt varidrives I worked on also put the axel into neutral when you used the brake.
It just takes some getting used to.
We have 2 local mowers, Cox & Greenfields that use friction drives which get damaged if you continually brake while driving in either direction.
It does take some people a long while to get used to driving like this.
Going directly into reverse when going forward seems wrong to most.
Ths is even worse if you have come from a mechanical gear box where you had to stop completely, then change gears before declutching.

Good morning! Thanks for the information. I believe that is going to take me some time to get use to it. or I will have to change it for another tractor. Thanks!!
 
I believe that is going to take me some time to get use to it. or I will have to change it for another tractor. Thanks!!


I suspect there's a way to by-pass that safety feature.

I don't know specifically how it works, however I'm sure someone here could point you in the right direction..


**My BIL's JD rider (after a tire change) wouldn't crank over. He pointed out the brake safety switch (brake had to be pushed in to crank start). The switch is plastic and half of it broke off(no way to zip tie/attach it back on-needed a new switch).

Anyway, to get it back in the truck (uphill), I zip tied the plastic switch pin IN (as if activated) so it would run (and it did).
He prefers it set up as such and left it that way..



My Snapper self propelled, walk behind mower (7HP Intek), had the typical safety brake/kill switch assembly when purchased. As I'm the only one that uses it, the bar and brake assembly got scrapped..

Made an aluminum bracket(attached to where the brake was), put a toggle on/off switch there and wired it in. No more bar, keeps running till I flip the switch... Been that way 13 years now..
 
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