Just doesn't add up right too me...Maybe new math that i don't understand. I come up with 5/3 thirds (1-2/3).
Either way can't fix them when you can't get the needed parts. I had to kill three Poulans today due being able to get the needed parts. Something changed at Husqvarna as the saws I was able to repair just two years ago are now unrepairable as they are NLA a lot of the parts. Today was a crankcase, fuel/oil caps, and chain brake assembly.
One with the crankcase is where someone tighten down the bar so much it screwed up the bar mount. One missing both caps. And the other again need a chain brake where tighten down with bar adjuster out of place.
2/3 of 2/3 is 4/9
2/3 + 1/3 =1
OR it used to back when I went to school
#9
StarTech
So your saying 2/3 of the carbs that were bad that 2/3's of them. Sorry mis-read the formula. Kinda makes sense now. Here is more the other way around; 3/4 of 2/3 carbs are stiff diaphragms. Now if it was larger small engine carbs then it would be that clogging.
Just got to stop taking those prescribe mind alternating drugs; I think...
I have an old WE aluminum deck push mower that I use for trimming. Very light - runs great. It has a 4.5hp Tecumseh engine. It was hard to start too. If I gave it a shot of starting fluid it would start and then run good. And, as long as the engine was warm it would start again and again. But cold? No.
One day I gave it about 20 primer 'pushes' and it started. It then died. So I primed it again and kept pushing the primer button and it kept running. Any guesses???
The primer bulb had a pin hole in it. So the carb was sucking cold air - essentially opening the choke. I ordered some new buttons - cheap. Installed one and it now starts great!
I looked up this model engine - it says this: "Prime 'N Pull Easy Starting System ™ pumps the right amount of gas to carburetor for easy one-pull starts". Prime 'n Pull.
I have an old Weed Eater lawn mower with a 4.5hp Techumseh engine. It has a primer bulb - is that what "Prime 'N Pull" is referring too? Mine was very difficult to start - either... I finally tracked it down to a small hole in the primer bulb. This effectively negated the choke. Trying to start a cold engine with no choke. I replaced the primer bulb and Voila.
While was trying to find the issue, I could get the mower to start with about 20 primer pushes. And i could keep it running by holding in the primer bulb (allowing the choke to function). Good luck man.
In my area very few people buy the expensive pre-mix or special oil, they prefer to mix their own. Usually, it is "by eye" and if they see light smoke, they figure it is good enough.
I run across carbon choked mufflers with and without exit screens or spark arrestors quite often.
Usually, I pull the muffler off and heat it a light red hot with a torch. Some will actually begin burning the carbon trapped inside. After it cools a little, I tap it really well on a vice or large hammer head and shake out the loose deposits. Bolt it back up and the machine starts like it should.
If exhaust cannot get out of a two stroke, enough air cannot get in the carburetor to mix with the fuel. Timing and compression can be great, but a choked muffler will keep them from starting and running.
This info assumes you have a 2 cycle! Your mileage may vary!
In my experience, check that the tank filter is not plugged. Make sure the fuel lines are not rotten and that the tank filter is still attached to the line in the tank. Pull the carb and buy a diaphragm/gasket kit(usually under $10) and replace. Don't think twice about re-using the old ones. Make sure you take note that the pump diaphragm(the thin one that has the two little check valve flaps) goes against the carb body and then the gasket, while on the other side, the gasket goes against the body and the rubber one with the metal disk sits on top of the gasket. Make sure the purge bulb is not cracked. Check that it's working. Remember, it's not a primer. See that it's sucking fuel up into the bulb and pushing it back into the tank. When you check the spark arrestor screen, take the time to pull the muffler and examine the exhaust port of the cylinder. That too can be full of built up carbon. I'd replace the plug and check for spark. Harbor Freight inline testers are under $10 and work fine. Lacking that, a pinch of starter fluid can tell you if have spark. If you are still no joy, I'd put a compression tester on it. I wouldn't be happy w anything under 90psi but I prefer 100+. Known good properly mixed, fresh gas goes without saying. I have to go to a marina for ethanol free so I'll use premium mixed 50:1 with synthetic oil(Echo in my case). Run it in every 2 cycle I own.
