Repairs Clutch stuck on shaft

[bfcg]

Having a problem getting the electric clutch off of my Kawasaki fh601v. 1-1/8 inch shaft. I removed the big bolt and washer and I also confirmed that there is no snap ring holding it on.
I sprayed penetrating fluid on the shaft a few hours ago and it still wont break free. Does anybody have any tips on dropping the clutch? Tiger Cub 48 FH601v-DS29-R 19hp Kawasaki 1-1/8 shaft.
Thanks.

 

[Mad Mackie]

Why are you attempting to remove the electric clutch? Have you removed the belt from the clutch?
Do you have an operators and parts manual for your specific machine?
There is a torque bracket that attaches to the underside of the frame and connects to the triangular portion of the clutch, this prevents this part of the clutch from turning when the engine is running and when the clutch is engaged. This needs to be removed before the clutch can be removed.
The engine crankshaft has a key slot and the key engages both the upper pulley which drives the hydraulic pump belt and the driven part of the electric clutch. If the clutch driven part is rusted onto the crankshaft then you may need to pry the clutch off with two pry bars pushing against the pump drive pulley. Doing this may damage the pump drive pulley and it may need to be replaced along with the clutch.
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:

 

[bfcg]

Thanks for the reply. I have all belts, brackets and wires out of the way. I have taken photos for reference (in case I forget where a wire or something goes). I do have a manual but it only shows exploded views and does not mention removal od clutch. The clutch is supposed to just drop off with out pulling or prying and most online explainations sound like they are telling you how to remove a clutch that is brand new and on a machine that never cut a single blade of grass:confused2:
I will try the air hammer and/or the double prybar today.

 

[reynoldston]

It sound s like it is rusted on. Pry Bar and air hammer sure sound like a good way to do a lot of damage. The last one I did just fell off. Maybe a lot of penetrating oil and a plate style puller then the prybars. Air hammer has a lot of moveing power but I don't see how it would work here? Then if all else fails split it with a cut off wheel.

 

[bfcg]

The air hammer is just to vibrate the life out of a surrogate bolt screwed into the shaft. I can't seem to locate the air hammer anyway (I might have lent it out). At the moment I have lots of penitrating oil and a pry bar working while I am away. The prybar is inserted and a block of hard maple is used at the fulcrum to keep the bar from contacting the top pulley. The whole machine was slowley lowered with wooden blocks placed under the end of the prybar to use the weight of the mower to apply constant pressure. I'll check it in a few hours, hopefully I'll find the clutch on the floor under the mower:licking:

 

[bfcg]

Got it!:smile:
I guess it's true that pressure makes a diamond because when I went to check on any progress I found that the clutch did slide down the shaft a few millimeters. After an adjustment to the prybar and a painful knuckle buster that my wife patched up for me, I was finally able to drop the clutch.
So, with the weight of the mower and some tapping on the prybar to create some vibration(queue Beachboys) I am now able to remove the engine for replacement or re-build. Tune in later, after I take a look inside.

 

[Mad Mackie]

That's great that you were able to remove the clutch. I have never had one give me a problem removing yet!!! Usually they follow the bolt as it is unscrewed. You may want to check Small Engine Warehouse and Tulsa Engine Warehouse for repower info. Getting a modern small engine overhauled is expensive and it is difficult to find a place that will do the job correctly. I have done business with both of these engine suppliers and some others, but I prefer Tulsa Engine Warehouse.
A new engine will give you at least 24 months or more of warranty which no engine rebuilder will ever provide and the least amount of down time. Every engine that I have received was shipped quickly and very well packaged. The cost of an overhaul frequently exceeds the price of a new engine. I would also inspect the clutch as bearing failure do to lack of lubrication is common with them. I have a pit in my garage/shop and I back the machine onto the pit and easily do clutch maintenance on vertical shaft machines.
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:

 

[chc]

Hi;
I'm new to the forum. Was a landsape contractor for years; got older, sold the business, tried retiring, failed the retirement test, & went back to work. I've got a 1999 Scag Turf Tiger with a 25hp Kohler carrying 2700 hrs. Engine quit for good the other day & I'm trying to repower. My problem is that I cannot get the clutch to come off. As it is a horizontal shaft setup, I'm not sure how to apply pressure w/o damaging the pulley just behind it. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

[Mad Mackie]

I would replace this pulley anyway as it has 2,700 hours on it, so go ahead and pry it off. Bear in mind that both the drive pulley and the clutch are keyed to the crankshaft. Back off the clutch bolt but don't remove it so when you start prying and if the pulley and the clutch start to move they won't fly off at you. Make sure that the repower engine has the same crankshaft dimensions as the old engine, both diameter and length. You may also need a new engine harness so the electrical system on the machine will correctly connect to the new engine.
I would also replace the pulleys on the pumps, the idler, and tensioner as they probably have 2,700 hours of operation on them also and the V belt for sure!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

 

[chc]

Thanks; I've got everything soaking tonight; maybe things will happen tomorrow. Good advice tho' I'll start looking for clutch, etc. Belt was all but broken when I removed it.