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I’ve been looking for a chute blocker or plans to build one myself. I really don’t want to spend $300 for one so I expect that I’ll need to build it myself. Has anyone seen a blocker that I can get for less than $200 or maybe a video showing details for one that will work?

You can build yourself one with steel plate bolted to the deck. But then I believe you need to change the internal baffles of the deck so that it tries to recycle the grass rather than send it out to the side discharge. I considered building a side discharge block off plate for my Father's Toro Titan HD 1500 buth then decided not to after learning that it may lead to unusual buildup of grass and clumpings in the lawn.

Toro makes a mulching kit with baffles and discharge cover plate as you’ve described. What I’m trying to accomplish is to prevent discharged grass clippings from going into my wife’s flower beds as I go past. There are several areas in my lawn where I can’t prevent that from happening (beds that I have to drive between). I have mocked up a cover with a piece of cardboard then will use steel or aluminum. I can use the existing discharge cover pin (axle) as a pivot point but am still trying to figure out a good way to handle the open/close process from the driver’s seat. Maybe a throttle cable.

BudLight72 said:

Toro makes a mulching kit with baffles and discharge cover plate as you’ve described. What I’m trying to accomplish is to prevent discharged grass clippings from going into my wife’s flower beds as I go past. There are several areas in my lawn where I can’t prevent that from happening (beds that I have to drive between). I have mocked up a cover with a piece of cardboard then will use steel or aluminum. I can use the existing discharge cover pin (axle) as a pivot point but am still trying to figure out a good way to handle the open/close process from the driver’s seat. Maybe a throttle cable.

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https://www.amazon.com/Qwikchute-Blocker-Deflector-Quickchute-NQD-TG3-5260/dp/B074P8XBDD

I found that a few years ago but the price is high. Never bought, but apparently gives you remote control on the fly from your seat.

if it discharges to one side, mow the opposite direction if you can.

sgkent said:

if it discharges to one side, mow the opposite direction if you can.

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I typically do that but have some areas where the landscape beds set across from each other making it impossible to not discharge clippings into the beds.

I don't know your mower but does moving at a much slower pace thru there reduce the throw to an acceptable distance? You don't really need a recycler, all you need to block the clippings for that short mowing distance. Can you post a photo of the discharge area on the mower you are trying to block?

sgkent said:

I don't know your mower but does moving at a much slower pace thru there reduce the throw to an acceptable distance? You don't really need a recycler, all you need to block the clippings for that short mowing distance. Can you post a photo of the discharge area on the mower you are trying to block?

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The mower picture I use with my account is a picture of the mower that I have. I have fabricated a chute blocker template from some old thin aluminum (gutter splash guard) stock that I had. Went to Lowes today and picked up a small sheet of 22 gauge steel that I’ll cut down. I’ll see how this step works out.

if the black chute on the side flips up, flip it up and find a way to fasten something inside it (on what would have been the underside) that hangs down and covers the opening. You can put two pieces of thin plywood held apart by a strip that slides over most of it with a pin that goes thru the wood and it, to keep it from accidentally coming free, and a bunge cord or small piece of small cable or chain to hold it up while the fixture is on it and hanging down. It can be a two pieces of stiff flat plastic with something to space them apart so they can drop on the chute. When done remove the bunge cord / chain, pull the pin, pull it off and flop the chute down again. All you need is to divert the clippings for a moment.

sgkent said:

if the black chute on the side flips up, flip it up and find a way to fasten something inside it (on what would have been the underside) that hangs down and covers the opening. You can put two pieces of thin plywood held apart by a strip that slides over most of it with a pin that goes thru the wood and it, to keep it from accidentally coming free, and a bunge cord or small piece of small cable or chain to hold it up while the fixture is on it and hanging down. It can be a two pieces of stiff flat plastic with something to space them apart so they can drop on the chute. When done remove the bunge cord / chain, pull the pin, pull it off and flop the chute down again. All you need is to divert the clippings for a moment.

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The plastic chute will flip up and down. The issue is regarding safety. I have included a picture of the discharge area of the deck with the diverter removed. You can see that the one blade is largely exposed and to me sets up an extremely unsafe condition. I don’t have a clue why Toro would design the deck this way except perhaps for airflow to a bagging system. I’ve also included a picture of the mock-up in aluminum which I now see is going to receive a major rework.

BudLight72 said:

The plastic chute will flip up and down. The issue is regarding safety. I have included a picture of the discharge area of the deck with the diverter removed. You can see that the one blade is largely exposed and to me sets up an extremely unsafe condition. I don’t have a clue why Toro would design the deck this way except perhaps for airflow to a bagging system. I’ve also included a picture of the mock-up in aluminum which I now see is going to receive a major rework.

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Wow, I didn't realize the blade would be so openly exposed for complimentary Toro toe amputations without the chute like that.

Blaine B. said:

Wow, I didn't realize the blade would be so openly exposed for complimentary Toro toe amputations without the chute like that.

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The chute blocker that I’m fabricating is going to have two parts. One part is going to be a flat piece of steel that covers the open top of the deck and will be stationary while the top part will be used to block discharge of the clippings. When I rotate the blocker up, the flat steel will remain in place. I’m not only worried about injury or damage from anything going in the open top, I’m worried about the blades picking up something and launching it vertically.

At this midpoint to completion, I have come to the conclusion that I won’t need a flat sheet of steel covering the top opening, the chute blocker at an open angle will effectively cover that area and I think minimize the safety issues. Everything is bolt up, I don’t have access to equipment to tack this together.

Here is what the final looks like. Fabricated from a small sheet of 22 ga. that I picked up at Lowes. The throttle cable came from NAPA. I had no idea what length I needed but got really lucky. I ran the cable through the frame into a big loop under the floorboard.

BudLight, My Toro is built the same. I'm thinking the same thing its built that way to lift the clippings up through the bagger. I have the same problem cutting between mulch areas that one side is going to get hit with clippings. Right now, I'm using a leaf blower to blow them out but when I get my bagger it won't blow in the mulch areas. That part of my yard I'll use the bagger and take it off for the rest of the yard. I do think a company name Ballard makes a chute blocker for the Toro time cutter with a notched deck.

Lawn Ranger Don said:

BudLight, My Toro is built the same. I'm thinking the same thing its built that way to lift the clippings up through the bagger. I have the same problem cutting between mulch areas that one side is going to get hit with clippings. Right now, I'm using a leaf blower to blow them out but when I get my bagger it won't blow in the mulch areas. That part of my yard I'll use the bagger and take it off for the rest of the yard. I do think a company name Ballard makes a chute blocker for the Toro time cutter with a notched deck.

Ballard Home Page

Mower Blades - Ballard Inc

www.ballard-inc.com

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Found it. Thanks for the link. Looks like the whole setup would be around $250. I’m sure it works better than mine but I’ve got less than $50 invested. I have a bagger for mine as well but prefer to alternate bagging/not. Get some of the clippings recycled back into the lawn especially now with fertilizer prices going through the roof.

I got this today and it wasn't easy to put on. Its missing the rubber strap on the hood to lock down the hood over the bags. I will may a phone call to Toro to send me a rubber strap to lock it down. Notice I'm using a bunge cord to hold it down. Second picture, I didn't focus.

I have the same unit. Luckily, mine came with the strap which I rarely use. It’s a pain to stretch down far enough to pull over the end of the steel hold down rod. I don’t think I have that much leakage of clippings to make a difference. The strap needs to be longer for reasonable use.

I made a chute blocker ( similar to the template in photo #!) out of a piece of aluminum I bought at Home Depot. I only use it in the fall for mulching leaves. It attaches by 2 small bolts I installed in existing holes in the deck ( so no drilling ) on my Simplicity ZT. It worked quite well. Now I am thinking I could possibly add a hinge and use a rope or heavy string to open/close as needed. I do not intend to mulch full time but for leaves or to protect discharge near flower beds it does the job. MY right side blade is not exposed like the Toro shown but I would not run the deck without the blocker or the flap either way. Its amazing that even with a factory flapper how stuff flies out of there. A rock or stone or stick can break a window or possibly strike a passing vehicle or a kid on a bicycle. SAFETY OVER CONVENIENCE!

Do you know I was blowing leaves in my front yard out towards the street and it can blow out as far out as 20 feet. I had to stop about 20 feet from the curb without them going out in the street.

I’m going to mulch my leaves using my chute blocker then run over the areas again with my bagger installed. The overall volume of the leaves should be significantly less. At least that’s what I’ve read on some YouTube posts.

BudLight72 said:

I’m going to mulch my leaves using my chute blocker then run over the areas again with my bagger installed. The overall volume of the leaves should be significantly less. At least that’s what I’ve read on some YouTube posts.

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I have done that a couple of ways. 1......just mowed over the leaves ( normal cutting) then ran a lawn sweeper to collect them... 2.....mulched the leaves and then ran the sweeper to collect them. mulching certainly reduced the number of trips to the back to dump them but mulching also made them harder to clean up. I had a lot more tiny pieces scattered around that took more sweeping effort. They disappeared within a few days and with additional mowings though.

Since I have the bagger attachment on I wonder if I can just remove the top chute and leave the bottom chute on to mulch. Then put the top chute back on and vacuum them up.

I think that I’d try it with the bags removed rather than the top chute. It will likely direct the debris straight down and back. I think removing the top chute would put a lot of debris on and potentially in your engine. Either way airborne dust is going to be really high. Suggest a dust mask.

I installed a seat cover, the rubber mat for your feet, the hour meter, and the assist bar. Notice the back of the seat cover has two pockets for your gloves and safety glasses.

I wonder since I have the bagger if I should get the bagging enhancement kit.

Here's a detail of it.

Toro offers an enhancement kit for my 42” fabricated deck which I considered. I’m confident that it will improve collection of clippings. My concern, and the reason that I didn’t purchase the kit, was it will create areas where clippings will collect and lay on the baffles (like small shelves). I think this will substantially increase the difficulty in cleaning the deck and potentially corrosion. I flush my deck with the water hose cleaning adapter every time I use it. I’ve also occasionally treated the deck with Gunk mower deck spray. So far it’s working pretty well.

BudLight72 said:

I flush my deck with the water hose cleaning adapter every time I use it.

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Yeoww, Cool water & hot spindles are not a good mix. I have never used water on any of my mowers. Blow it off & scrape as needed.

Lawn Ranger Don said:

I installed a seat cover, the rubber mat for your feet, the hour meter, and the assist bar. Notice the back of the seat cover has two pockets for your gloves and safety glasses.

View attachment 62756

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Why doesn't the hour meter have any reading on it ? My Toro's hour meter was always on.

And FWIW: Toro has them wired to only count hours when blades engage.. Not exactly accurate imo.

7394 said:

Why doesn't the hour meter have any reading on it ? My Toro's hour meter was always on.

And FWIW: Toro has them wired to only count hours when blades engage.. Not exactly accurate imo.

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I took a picture right after I installed it. Its on, do you see the 0.0

10-4, I only see a blank screen, that's why I posted about it.

How did you wire it ?

7394 said:

Yeoww, Cool water & hot spindles are not a good mix. I have never used water on any of my mowers. Blow it off & scrape as needed.

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Your comment seemed valid to me but a couple of questions still lingered. If they’re so damaging, Why would they include a washout port and why no caution statement in the owners manual. So I started looking around and found a video put out by Toro which states that you should washout the deck immediately after mowing, before the clippings dry. But and to your point, the next time I cut, I am going to check the temperature of my spindles just as soon as I finish. I’m in SC with Bermuda in the front and fescue in the back (lot of shade trees). So I’m cutting pretty much all year. The fescue with it’s high moisture content creates the biggest mess with my deck.

My manual says wash the bagger attachment after every use, but I know better. I always use the leaf blower after each use.

BudLight72 said:

If they’re so damaging, Why would they include a washout port and why no caution statement in the owners manual.

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Well they don't make money unless ya need replacement parts, like spindles & or the bearings, etc..

What ever brand mower Co is happy ya bought their mower, & happier if you keep needing parts too.

Hey, just asking honest questions and have conversations trying to gather legitimate and accurate information on how better maintain and utilize my lawn equipment.

I was going to install that enhancement kit and notice it isn't much of an enhancement. I'm thinking over time it will collect wet grass and leaves and they will get caked up in it. It will always need to be cleaned out. I decided to return it. I've been doing leaf clean ups with the machine. I'll use a blower and place the leaves out of the mulch areas. I could have piles 6 inches to a foot and that Toro just grinds them up and sucks them up. It is dusty. Now I did it a leaf clean up in the morning the other day with dew on the ground. It wasn't dusty at all.