how do I remove the starter on a husqvarna 23 horse power mower? when I turn the key it makes a loud humming noise. ace hardware suggested I change the celanoid first but it had no effect.
Please post engine make, model number, type number, code number and/or serial number as this will tell us what make engine you have.
Now on to your question. Start by disconnecting the battery negative cable at the battery so you don't accidentally create a short circuit when removing the leads from the starter. If the solenoid is mounted directly on the starter, there are usually two bolts near the top of the starter that hold the starter to the block. Remove the bolts and then you can gain access to the electrical connections on the bottom of the starter. A little penetrating oil goes a long way to help remove the sometimes stubborn nut that holds the positive battery cable on the solenoid.
If you have a remote solenoid starter then follow the same safety procedure by removing the negative battery cable at the battery and you may have to remove the blower housing to gain access to the starter mounting bolts.
You can also hit the bottom of the starter with a wrench or similar and see if it works. That's the cheap way if it works. It won't last you too long but can last a little while.
Lairdslawnmowers just gave you the worst info possible for fixing a starter. Hitting a starter is asking for someone to empty your wallet. You'll probably just crack the magnets in the starter and then you can go buy a new one. As lawn ranger just said remove the negative battery cable. Remove the positive wire from the starter. Two bolts hold the starter on, just remove and the starter will drop out. If it was humming, I would suspect either bad brushes or commutator. If you have a rebuilder in your area he can give you an idea if it is worth repairing.
#5
Carscw
If you just tap the bottom of the starter you can get it started to get it out of a field or just back to the shed. But Tap the bottom not the sides.
Not every one has the money to run to a shop every time there mower breaks
I have had a starter go out on my first yard of the day and had to tap on it every yard for the rest of the day.
Now I keep a starter on the truck I even have a 18 hp Briggs on the truck never needed it but if I do I have it. Heck it only takes 15 mins to swap a engine
Carscw, I understand what you are saying and agree with you to a point. From what I have read from different posters on this forum, many of them shouldn't be told to hit, cut or tighten anything. In this case the person just wanted to know how to remove the starter. I think he was going to bench test it. Most starters are mounted where tapping on the sides are the only way to hit them. Tapping on the bottom can dislodge brushes and brush connections. I used to be the starter rebuilder at the last place I worked at, rebuilding an average of 20 starters a week. I found broken magnets, brushes, commutators, and bearings caused by hitting the outside if the starter. As any of the good techs on this forum know, a hammer mechanic normally does more bad than good. As a retired instructor, I have to point out bad advice being given out and why, even though some don't want to hear it.
Thanks for the advice. After reviewing your posts and another for a similar question I found I had to remove the housing on top of the mower engine to access the bolts holding on the starter. When I did this, the grey plastic wheel which fits the fly wheel fell off in two pieces. There was little wear on the part. I turned the fly wheel to be sure it had not frozen up or something but do not know how much resistance there should be. It turned without too much trouble.
What kind on penetrating oil should I use on the bolts? I could not find my WD40 so I used a little liquid grease. Prior to that I attempted to remove the bolts holding the starter on. I have never seen anything so hard to remove. The best I can tell, the bolts have to be removed with a star shaped bit. I tried a hex key, and it would not budge, I put a star shaped bit in a screw driver and had no luck. A battery drill did no good. When I used my electric drill, the bolt did not move, but the extension bit (which came with my Ryobi drill) bent. I will try to take some photos if they will help.
Although I have several acres to mow, I do not have a trailer to take the mower to a shop. I also prefer not to pay high prices for a shop when I should be able to do it myself.
You will need a Torx bit to remove the bolts. They are TIGHT. I would get a socket style with a 3/8" drive. Penetrating oil will probably not help, but if you want a good one I use PB Blaster or Yield. Once it is off you should be able to repair easily.
I want to think everyone for their help. I purchased a Torx bit with the 3/8" drive. A short extender was attached but agin it would not move. I then hit the ratchet wrench with a rubber hammer and BINGO, the bolts loosened. I now have it off and can do my repairs. I am not sure I could have done it without ya'll.
