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Hi,

I managed to make it 64 years without hooking up a battery backwards, but that streak ended recently when I was in a hurry

Once I connected my jump start battery correctly, I was able to get the mower started, but it sputtered and stopped a few seconds later.

M/N: Mower: 13AQ617H118
M/N: Engine: 407677-0258E1

I removed the two wire stator yesterday. The diode on the red wire measures 0.540 one way and open the other, so I believe it is good.

These measurements I'm not sure about on the stator are:
Black - Gnd = 0.1ohms
Red - Gnd =1.1ohms
Red-Black = 1.3ohms

Black/red lead measurements were done from the stator ring, not the 2 pin connector, so the diode was not in the circuit.

I am unable to find specs to determine if I have a bad stator or not, so hopefully someone can help me out.

I also checked the 10A fuse under the hood near the key switch and it is good. Is there another fuse elsewhere?

Thank you in advance for any help/guidance.
Pat

Will this manual help? https://www.briggsandstratton.com/c...a/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_replacement.pdf

I did actually look at that file and it only shows how to measure, but not what the resistance specs should be.

Thanks!

The alternator just recharges the battery & runs the lights & fuel solenoid
Most mowers will run fine without a battery installed at all if the fuel solenoid is clipped .
The red wire sends pulsed DC to the battery to recharge it and the black wire provides AC to the headlights only .
So the alternator is not the cause of the mower stopping
Alternators are not repairable so it is a works or does not work situation which is why there is no resistance values
Apart from that most resistance numbers are fairly well meaningless unless you have a pro grade multimeter as just pressing the probes harder can give different readings
The diode should be no resistance one way and infinate resistance the other way so yes yours looks to be OK
The magneto is self energising to create the spark at the plug so no electricity is needed to keep it running.
If you are 64 then you will remember things called points that we used to have to clean & adjust regularly.
Well now days that is done electrically inside the coil and the thin wire on the coil grounds the ( electronic ) points to stop the magneto sparking.
Sometimes connecting a battery backwards sends battery voltage down that lill wire which buggers the electronic timing chip ( points equivalent )
The other thing that goes wrong is the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb ( or the wires to it )
It is easy to check because you can pull it off, ground it if it is the 1 wire type or just leave it sitting where you can see it if it is the 2 wire type
Turn the key to the run position and the pin should snap back quickly and stay back for say 10 minutes ( it will get hot but that is OK )
Check that it retracts fully and of course look at what comes out the bottom of the float bowl , water, dirty brown fuel debris etc .
Let us know what you find .

It takes a milliohm meter to read the stator windings accurately. And most the newer meters are over $100 for the cheap ones that read the milli ohms.

Mower is running again!

I put it partially back together and sprayed a little starting fluid in it and it fired up for a bit so I was ready to put it all back together, but thought I'd remove the cover from the fins and clean those out. I really didn't have anything in there, but I noticed the rubber hose to the fuel pump was split. After fixing that and getting it all together, IT RUNS LIKE A TOP

Thanks all for your response and help!

Thank you for letting us know, 95% of the time we never know the outcome.

Your welcome!

It really stinks when you see someone else with a problem like yours and you read through the entire thread, only to find no answer... . The mowing has begun!