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Cheap Chinses Carb

May 23, 2022#1

2ball

A couple years ago, I got a free mower with a blown engine. I bought a $150 used engine and I have been running it for the 3rd seasons now. It burns or leaks oil and if I don't use the fuel shout off when I put it away it leaks gas into the oil. I recently with your help figured out which engine I have (31C707-0154-E1).

I feel like I'm just not going to spend $135 on a carb from Briggs and Stratton on what's now an $80 engine.

someone on here said the engine was from 2004. That predates any vehicle engine that I own, it predates Facebook and Gmail.

I think I fixed the oil leak by tightening up the rocker cover, but we will see.

I hear the gas in the oil is a needle and seat issue.

I am feeling like a $20 Chinese carb is in my future.

May 23, 2022#2

Hammermechanicman

You rolls the dice and you takes your chances.

May 23, 2022#3

2ball

Hammermechanicman said:
You rolls the dice and you takes your chances.

At the end of the day its a lawnmower. Its not like its going to strand my wife on the beltway!
Worse case scenario I have to cut the yard with a push mower one time and I put the old one back on.

May 23, 2022#4

sgkent

Since you already have a solution you want to go with, how is it exactly folks here can help?

May 23, 2022#5

2ball

sgkent said:
Since you already have a solution you want to go with, how is it exactly folks here can help?

I don't know, maybe someone before me bought a cheap Chinese Carb and has a story to go along with it, maybe it worked out good for them or bad for them. Or maybe someone who knows a lot about these engines will suggest I just rebuild the current carb and offer suggestions on exactly what I need to do to get my current carb working correctly. There seem to be an insane amount of people here who make a living repairing, and running these things, that maybe one of those people can offer some insight that I have not thought of. Maybe someone will suggest that a used carb off of a lawn mower will be a better solution then a Cheap Chinese Carb.

Those are some of the things I hope the folks here can help me with.

May 23, 2022#6

Scrubcadet10

I bought a cheap chinesium carb for a customer last spring, at his request... He came in a few days ago. said the carb flooded and filled his crankcase.... Now, i always keep old carbs..... found his old one... or at least an identical one, told him i had i rebuild kit and i could have him running by that evening....
I always give 4 options, and the prices.... i'd say about 30% go for quality aftermaket, 20% for OEM's. and 50% for Cheap chinese carbs.
OEM carb
OEM Rebuild Kit
Quality aftermarket (stens etc.)
Aftermarket ( Amazon, best reviewed)

May 23, 2022#7

sgkent

I had a factory carb from circa 1992 on an edger. It worked find for about 10 years and needed rebuilding. Rebuilt it and it worked fine. One day a jet unscrewed (that I never removed before) and it ran badly. Replaced the jet and it ran 3 more years great. One day I opened the shed and it smelled of gasoline. The carb started leaking and the whole tank drained. Rebuilt it again. Same. Rebuilt it again. Same. Rebuilt it again using a magnifying glass on every part. It leaked again. So I bought an old stock carb and it solved the issue. Maybe some day I will rebuild the old one - maybe not. I am 71 and have been rebuilding carbs since age 16. Raced successfully SCCA for quite a few years so I am pretty good with them. I'd rebuild that one with a good factory kit, or look for a new factory one. What you paid for the mower doesn't determine its value. What determines it is what it will cost you to replace it with similar in working condition. If you are a drive it until it drops kinda guy, it dropped. If you are a rebuild it kinda guy I'd look for a direct factory replacement, preferably sealed old stock.

According to Jacks Small Engine that model came with either a Walbro or a Nikki carb. Might be a serial number based thing. Partswarehouse shows that model with a Ruixing carb. First step is to figure out what carb you have on it I think.

May 23, 2022#8

sgkent

based on your other thread I am guessing it was orginally a 794572 carb replaced by 594593. I am not certain because I do not know what your engine came off of. Looks like about $112 for a genuine one. If the fuel solenoid at the bottom is leaking, that is about $80 by itself. If you decide to try a chinese clone, make sure there is room to fit because the solenoid on those looks a lot longer than the original.

May 23, 2022#9

2ball

sgkent said:
based on your other thread I am guessing it was orginally a 794572 carb replaced by 594593. I am not certain because I do not know what your engine came off of. Looks like about $112 for a genuine one. If the fuel solenoid at the bottom is leaking, that is about $80 by itself. If you decide to try a chinese clone, make sure there is room to fit because the solenoid on those looks a lot longer than the original.

Nice thanks for this info. I am having trouble figuring out what Carb I need. The carb was on the used engine when I bought the engine and its still on there.
I have been told that it is a Walbro Carb based on the LTM 4993 stamped on it. I have found a LTM 5-4993 carb. I believe my engine is a 31C707-0154-E1.
Is there enough info yet to figure out what carb I need?

The issue I have right now is when I put it away, I have to turn off the fuel and run it out of gas. If I don't, its very hard to start, and somehow gas leaks into the oil. It will also backfire. To start it I usually use starter fluid so I don't have to let it crank for 30 seconds.
I ran it like that all of last season, but it was a major PITA. Maybe its worth $120 not to have to shut it down like that.

What is the exact OEM carb I need?

May 23, 2022#10

B

bertsmobile1

The simple answer is buy from an honest vendor
All of the after market parts suppliers do aftermarket carbs from 1/4 to 1/2 the price of a factory one
So go to the Rotary , Stens, Prime Line & Oregon on line catalogues and look up Walbro LMT carburettor .
Then at their home page look up "find a dealer " .
Many of them actually get the carbs from the same factories that the manufacturers get the original from .
I am yet to get a bad one and I fit quite a few because a new carb is only a bit more expensive than an original float bowl and cheaper than an original solenoid .

Go the lazy way and flick through Ammo Zone or Evil pay any there is a 50:50 chance that you will be buying a defective carb that was rejected by the QC inspector for the engine company or the aftermarket supplier .

May 23, 2022#11

2ball

bertsmobile1 said:
The simple answer is buy from an honest vendor
All of the after market parts suppliers do aftermarket carbs from 1/4 to 1/2 the price of a factory one
So go to the Rotary , Stens, Prime Line & Oregon on line catalogues and look up Walbro LMT carburettor .
Then at their home page look up "find a dealer " .
Many of them actually get the carbs from the same factories that the manufacturers get the original from .
I am yet to get a bad one and I fit quite a few because a new carb is only a bit more expensive than an original float bowl and cheaper than an original solenoid .

Go the lazy way and flick through Ammo Zone or Evil pay any there is a 50:50 chance that you will be buying a defective carb that was rejected by the QC inspector for the engine company or the aftermarket supplier .

Holy smokes this complicated. I'm not sure how to search to find a carb that fits. Walbro LMT carburetor brought no returns searching in those sights. I'm going to drink a couple beers and try again in a few.

May 23, 2022#12

B

bertsmobile1

Well I was trying to make things a bit easier
Try carburetor Briggs & Stratton Also try with the correct TT spelling .
Some will list it as replacing Walbro LMT others will use the B & S number
Stens brought up 3 pages with the more general search

May 23, 2022#13

2ball

bertsmobile1 said:
Well I was trying to make things a bit easier
Try carburetor Briggs & Stratton Also try with the correct TT spelling .
Some will list it as replacing Walbro LMT others will use the B & S number
Stens brought up 3 pages with the more general search

thanks, I just emailed Stens with all of the information that I have. hope they reply in a day or two. I will keep looking online also.

May 23, 2022#14

B

bertsmobile1

The problem is most techs can spot a refurbished carb or defective carb from 10 foot away
Most DIY home mechanics can not .
Even worse often the photos that are used on Evilpay & Ammozone are not the actual item being sold but a generic photo
Thus you don't know it has been repaired till you get it in your hands.
Mot vendors require you to pay for the return post and the return post for the defective carb is greater than the original purchase price, so you go & order another .
I have had customers come through the gate demmanding that I fit an original carb because they have bought 2 or 3 on line and every one was defective .
By now of course they needed to borrow a chair & whip to get past the lions & tigers hiding in the 4' grass in their front yard

May 23, 2022#15

2ball

bertsmobile1 said:
The problem is most techs can spot a refurbished carb or defective carb from 10 foot away
Most DIY home mechanics can not .
Even worse often the photos that are used on Evilpay & Ammozone are not the actual item being sold but a generic photo
Thus you don't know it has been repaired till you get it in your hands.
Mot vendors require you to pay for the return post and the return post for the defective carb is greater than the original purchase price, so you go & order another .
I have had customers come through the gate demmanding that I fit an original carb because they have bought 2 or 3 on line and every one was defective .
By now of course they needed to borrow a chair & whip to get past the lions & tigers hiding in the 4' grass in their front yard

yea, you sold me on quality aftermarket, if I can find one!

May 23, 2022#16

B

bertsmobile1

Hopefully if we can educate enough people they will stop buying junk off the platforms specifically built for criminals to offload scrap on line then either the platforms will change or the vendors will give up .

May 23, 2022#17

Scrubcadet10

From the issue you describe, sounds like your float needle is faulty, it can be fixed with Briggs repair parts
231855S

and possibly a float, if you find that it does not float,

Float is about $12 and needle is about $4.... depending where you look.... shouldn't be more than $20 bucks to fix.... and you have OEM quality.

May 24, 2022#18

StarTech

On that engine (31C707-0154-E1) Briggs and Walbro does not offer the LMT any longer the replacement is the Nikki PN 594593 for the 2004 year. Now the Walbro is still repairable with a $35 kit (PN 697241) which comes with both gravity and pressure (fuel pump) inlet seats. Just have to install the correct inlet seat. This would resolve the fuel leakage problem. Now the seat is available separately for the gravity version but I recommend the kit as you will need the gaskets anyway.

For someone without the cleaning tools or the knowledge of how the install the inlet seat it is better for them to have a shop do the repairs or buy a new OEM carburetor.

May 24, 2022#19

2ball

From Rotary:

Good morning,

I was able to look into your Model number 31C707-0154-E. I was able to find the OEM number off the carburetor you needed. However we did not cross it back to anything we will have here at Rotary at this time. I will list the OEM numbers I have found as I hope it will help with your search in the future. Let me know if I can help with anything else.

Briggs Carburetor
OEM: 794572
Superseded OEM: 594593
Date code before: 08051400

Thank you, Matt

May 24, 2022#20

2ball

StarTech said:
On that engine (31C707-0154-E1) Briggs and Walbro does not offer the LMT any longer the replacement is the Nikki PN 594593 for the 2004 year. Now the Walbro is still repairable with a $35 kit (PN 697241) which comes with both gravity and pressure (fuel pump) inlet seats. Just have to install the correct inlet seat. This would resolve the fuel leakage problem. Now the seat is available separately for the gravity version but I recommend the kit as you will need the gaskets anyway.

For someone without the cleaning tools or the knowledge of how the install the inlet seat it is better for them to have a shop do the repairs or buy a new OEM carburetor.

I think this is the answer. removing and replacing the seat seems do-able.

May 24, 2022#21

sgkent

I do not know what carb that is but I am a layman at this like you, although good at it from restoring many engines and items over the years. The photos of the B&S 594593 are slightly different than your photo, and I cannot find a photo online of an original B&S 794572. The only original one I could find is still in the box and the guy posted just a photo of the sealed box and not what is inside. I agree that it is frustrating but that is par for the course on old equipment. I recently went thru it with a carb I bought from a quite respectible local dealer. Iy looked about the same, came in a B&S box with a slightly different number, but it did not work right. The old stock one I found on fleabay was same as the original and the engine now runs like new. Since I opened and used it I could not take the one back to the dealer. They have been good to me over the years, and I did not want to trouble them with a return.

May 24, 2022#22

sgkent

I might add. Some carb seats require a special tool to remove and insert without damaging the surrounding area. The tool is not expensive but it adds time to the repair. If something else is causing the leak like the solenoid, then that could make the repair more expensive than buying a replacement. There is a fellow on ebay with a sealed box B&S 794572. Maybe if you want it he can open the box and take some photos to be sure it matches. I think it was $111 or something like that. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165496979929?epid=2099154563&hash=item26886381d9:g:4soAAOSwjsxii-VZ

May 24, 2022#23

Scrubcadet10

If he does indeed have a walbro carb, and the walbro/Briggs part number is correct, he will not have a seat to replace, since the needle is Viton tipped.

May 24, 2022#24

StarTech

Scrub. I believe you are thinking about the Nikki that replaced the Walbro but if reaseach is correct the current supersede is a Ruixing carburetor.

But the Walbro did indeed had replaceable inlet needle seat. See item 106.

594593

May 24, 2022#25

Scrubcadet10

StarTech said:
Scrub. I believe you are thinking about the Nikki that replaced the Walbro but if reaseach is correct the current supersede is a Ruixing carburetor.

But the Walbro did indeed had replaceable inlet needle seat. See item 106.
View attachment 60627
594593
View attachment 60628

Hmm, the Needle part number that was marked walbro...... EDIT, Oh, i see now, it has a replaceable brass seat, i was referring to a viton/rubber seat.

May 24, 2022#26

2ball

I took the bowl off and this is what I found.

The needle tip was breaking off and before I put it back together it broke off.
It looks exactly like the needle that was suggested right?

May 24, 2022#27

StarTech

Yes.. And would be the cause of the fuel leakage.

May 24, 2022#28

2ball

Ok, so a new needle, I probably need a bowel gasket, a new float wouldn't hurt and I can probably skip the seat for now?

What Bowl gasket do I need?

May 25, 2022#29

R

rustycat

2ball said:
A couple years ago, I got a free mower with a blown engine. I bought a $150 used engine and I have been running it for the 3rd seasons now. It burns or leaks oil and if I don't use the fuel shout off when I put it away it leaks gas into the oil. I recently with your help figured out which engine I have (31C707-0154-E1).

I feel like I'm just not going to spend $135 on a carb from Briggs and Stratton on what's now an $80 engine.

someone on here said the engine was from 2004. That predates any vehicle engine that I own, it predates Facebook and Gmail.

I think I fixed the oil leak by tightening up the rocker cover, but we will see.

I hear the gas in the oil is a needle and seat issue.

I am feeling like a $20 Chinese carb is in my future.

Just put a fuel shut off valve in line and turn the gas off when not running

May 25, 2022#30

StarTech

2ball said:
Ok, so a new needle, I probably need a bowel gasket, a new float wouldn't hurt and I can probably skip the seat for now?

What Bowl gasket do I need?

Well I let do the foot work...It is list in the following IPL.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...07-0154-e1/carburetor-kit-carburetor-overhaul

May 25, 2022#31

B

Barney56

2ball said:
A couple years ago, I got a free mower with a blown engine. I bought a $150 used engine and I have been running it for the 3rd seasons now. It burns or leaks oil and if I don't use the fuel shout off when I put it away it leaks gas into the oil. I recently with your help figured out which engine I have (31C707-0154-E1).

I feel like I'm just not going to spend $135 on a carb from Briggs and Stratton on what's now an $80 engine.

someone on here said the engine was from 2004. That predates any vehicle engine that I own, it predates Facebook and Gmail.

I think I fixed the oil leak by tightening up the rocker cover, but we will see.

I hear the gas in the oil is a needle and seat issue.

I am feeling like a $20 Chinese carb is in my future.

I buy and sell small engine powered equipment all the time. Been doing it for the last 40 years. I often times pick up equipment that has had gas in it for so long that the tank is full of rust. I replace the carburetor with a Chinese made piece from either eBay or Amazon, clean or replace the tank, and it’s good to go. I have been using Chinese made carbs for 5 years now, have not had a single problem with any of them. My personal riding mower is a 25 year old Craftsman with a 14.5HP Briggs and Stratton. I put a Chinese carb on it 3 summers ago, still going strong. Often times the Chinese carb is cheaper than a rebuild kit for the original carb.

May 25, 2022#32

StarTech

rustycat said:
Just put a fuel shut off valve in line and turn the gas off when not running

OH that will work when the needle tip is completely gone.

May 25, 2022#33

StarTech

Barney56 said:
I buy and sell small engine powered equipment all the time. Been doing it for the last 40 years. I often times pick up equipment that has had gas in it for so long that the tank is full of rust. I replace the carburetor with a Chinese made piece from either eBay or Amazon, clean or replace the tank, and it’s good to go. I have been using Chinese made carbs for 5 years now, have not had a single problem with any of them. My personal riding mower is a 25 year old Craftsman with a 14.5HP Briggs and Stratton. I put a Chinese carb on it 3 summers ago, still going strong. Often times the Chinese carb is cheaper than a rebuild kit for the original carb.

Then you have been very very lucky as nearly every one I have ran into have had problems right out the box and required mods to get them to even half way work right.

May 25, 2022#34

S

skiman

I've been repairing mowers for almost 50 years...the last 20 years ive been using the aftermarket chinese carbs for briggs...either the nikki or walbro style with maybe 2 issues over 200 carbs...OEM gets 4 markups before its sold to you...briggs buys almost all ov their carbs in china now...the markups go this way...briggs arranges to buy a lot of carbs for distribution...they add a markup on top of the buying from the OEM...then sell it to the distributors who mark it up for sale to the dealers who mark it up for sale to you...4 markup from the original suppliers...ill keep buying the aftermarket and save my customers a lot of money...

May 25, 2022#35

S

slomo

On all mower engines that I can fit them, I install a fuel filter and a shutoff valve inline to the carb.

May 25, 2022#36

S

slomo

rustycat said:
Just put a fuel shut off valve in line and turn the gas off when not running

Or replace the needle AND use a fuel shutoff valve.

May 25, 2022#37

StarTech

skiman said:
I've been repairing mowers for almost 50 years...the last 20 years ive been using the aftermarket chinese carbs for briggs...either the nikki or walbro style with maybe 2 issues over 200 carbs...OEM gets 4 markups before its sold to you...briggs buys almost all ov their carbs in china now...the markups go this way...briggs arranges to buy a lot of carbs for distribution...they add a markup on top of the buying from the OEM...then sell it to the distributors who mark it up for sale to the dealers who mark it up for sale to you...4 markup from the original suppliers...ill keep buying the aftermarket and save my customers a lot of money...

As I said you have been lucky or I have been aweful unlucky. Nearly every one I have tried including cubes all were screwy.

Either way I very seldom ever needed to replace a carburetor in the last 13 yrs. Most I clean and repair.

May 25, 2022#38

G

Gord Baker

The only way fuel can get into the Crankcase is from the Carb. A spec of dirt at the needle/seat interface is all it takes.
The fuel Shutoff valve may not be getting power or is defective. You should be able to feel/hear it click when slowly turning the key ON.

It is usually possible to remove the float/needle without removing the Carb. Examine the needle. If it is a rubber (Viton) tip don't damage it, wipe it clean. Let a rush of fuel come through the seat area before reinstalling. Do NOT press the float up by hand. That can damage needle and/or seat. It is a simple matter to see if the Fuel Shut off solenoid is working. No tools required.
The simple and positive solution is to install a Fuel Line shutoff Valve and remember to use it. Shut it Off 20 seconds before you are done with the mower.

May 25, 2022#39

Hammermechanicman

Barney56 said:
I buy and sell small engine powered equipment all the time. Been doing it for the last 40 years. I often times pick up equipment that has had gas in it for so long that the tank is full of rust. I replace the carburetor with a Chinese made piece from either eBay or Amazon, clean or replace the tank, and it’s good to go. I have been using Chinese made carbs for 5 years now, have not had a single problem with any of them. My personal riding mower is a 25 year old Craftsman with a 14.5HP Briggs and Stratton. I put a Chinese carb on it 3 summers ago, still going strong. Often times the Chinese carb is cheaper than a rebuild kit for the original carb.

I have had very good luck with the cheap honda style carbs. I have had 0 success with Kohler ebay carbs. They have always been jetted wrong.

May 25, 2022#40

2ball

Gord Baker said:
The only way fuel can get into the Crankcase is from the Carb. A spec of dirt at the needle/seat interface is all it takes.
The fuel Shutoff valve may not be getting power or is defective. You should be able to feel/hear it click when slowly turning the key ON.

It is usually possible to remove the float/needle without removing the Carb. Examine the needle. If it is a rubber (Viton) tip don't damage it, wipe it clean. Let a rush of fuel come through the seat area before reinstalling. Do NOT press the float up by hand. That can damage needle and/or seat. It is a simple matter to see if the Fuel Shut off solenoid is working. No tools required.
The simple and positive solution is to install a Fuel Line shutoff Valve and remember to use it. Shut it Off 20 seconds before you are done with the mower.

My needle was bad, currently there is no tip on it. I ordered a new one. I hear the solenoid click.
I put in a fuel shutoff and I have been using that for the past 2 seasons. I was hoping to not have to go through the process of shutting off the fuel, letting it run out of gas and having a harder start up. Maybe I don't have to let it run out of gas, just turn off the fuel.

May 25, 2022#41

W

wekjo

2ball said:
A couple years ago, I got a free mower with a blown engine. I bought a $150 used engine and I have been running it for the 3rd seasons now. It burns or leaks oil and if I don't use the fuel shout off when I put it away it leaks gas into the oil. I recently with your help figured out which engine I have (31C707-0154-E1).

I feel like I'm just not going to spend $135 on a carb from Briggs and Stratton on what's now an $80 engine.

someone on here said the engine was from 2004. That predates any vehicle engine that I own, it predates Facebook and Gmail.

I think I fixed the oil leak by tightening up the rocker cover, but we will see.

I hear the gas in the oil is a needle and seat issue.

I am feeling like a $20 Chinese carb is in my future.

Try partstree.com or Adam's mower recycler in Greenwich, ohio. Adams sells used stuff and you really have to see it to believe it. Search on youtube, mowers of every ilk and age, and they go on forever.

May 25, 2022#42

A

Armana

If someone hasn’t already said it they are all coming from china. Even the B&S is coming from China. (Same plant - who knows?)
I have dealt with the old Sears Parts Direct to get carbs under $20 that went right on without even needing an adjustment. I have bought similar carbs through eBay and Amazon - again around $20 -30 without a hitch. What you won’t find is replacements for the vintage stuff. I have a shelf of old zenith’s just in case.

May 25, 2022#43

C

catman606

My personal experience has been fine with the Chinese carbs. I've bought two for 2 cycle engines and those I also got the tool to adjust the air screws with. One for a 6 hp Subaru engine for a go kart and one for my riding mower. They all ran fine out of the box. Only one I returned was my fault, it ran fine, but my air filter didn't fit. I hadn't looked at the picture close enough, my bad. Free return on Amazon. If you order off Ebay, you have to pay attention, some sellers have free returns, some don't.

Mine is a small sample, I'm sure the guys that do this for a living have much more experience and are more than capable of rebuilding an ailing carb. I used to drag race and have rebuilt lots of Holley carbs, these small carbs wear my patience thin real quick.

May 25, 2022#44

gamma_ray

2ball said:
Nice thanks for this info. I am having trouble figuring out what Carb I need. The carb was on the used engine when I bought the engine and its still on there.
I have been told that it is a Walbro Carb based on the LTM 4993 stamped on it. I have found a LTM 5-4993 carb. I believe my engine is a 31C707-0154-E1.
Is there enough info yet to figure out what carb I need?

The issue I have right now is when I put it away, I have to turn off the fuel and run it out of gas. If I don't, its very hard to start, and somehow gas leaks into the oil. It will also backfire. To start it I usually use starter fluid so I don't have to let it crank for 30 seconds.
I ran it like that all of last season, but it was a major PITA. Maybe its worth $120 not to have to shut it down like that.

What is the exact OEM carb I need?

Just a thought, but it appears you have a fuel solenoid on the fuel bowl. I've seen these fail and the engine won't start because it's there to stop fuel flow when the ignition is off. However, is it possible that it, somehow someway, failed in the retract position (bent shaft, broken spring) to cause the leaking fuel issues?

May 25, 2022#45

C

crawford111

I brought 4 at different time never one problem for the money you can't beat them as long as you order the right one.

May 25, 2022#46

T

Tommy Mckeown

Seriously? Are you not going to take the carb off to least open and clean it before you condemn it?

May 25, 2022#47

StarTech

gamma_ray said:
Just a thought, but it appears you have a fuel solenoid on the fuel bowl. I've seen these fail and the engine won't start because it's there to stop fuel flow when the ignition is off. However, is it possible that it, somehow someway, failed in the retract position (bent shaft, broken spring) to cause the leaking fuel issues?

No. That not what are designed to do.

May 25, 2022#48

Deleted member 97405

2ball said:
A couple years ago, I got a free mower with a blown engine. I bought a $150 used engine and I have been running it for the 3rd seasons now. It burns or leaks oil and if I don't use the fuel shout off when I put it away it leaks gas into the oil. I recently with your help figured out which engine I have (31C707-0154-E1).

I feel like I'm just not going to spend $135 on a carb from Briggs and Stratton on what's now an $80 engine.

someone on here said the engine was from 2004. That predates any vehicle engine that I own, it predates Facebook and Gmail.

I think I fixed the oil leak by tightening up the rocker cover, but we will see.

I hear the gas in the oil is a needle and seat issue.

I am feeling like a $20 Chinese carb is in my future.

Keep the original carb if the engine runs good. Chinese carbs are junk. I recommend putting a fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line and simply turn it off when you're done mowing. If you were having an over-fueling situation while mowing, I would recommend a new inlet needle or carb replacement. But since your issue is just when the machine is sitting, that is the cheapest, simplest cure to this situation. $5-$10 fix.

May 25, 2022#49

2ball

Tommy Mckeown said:
Seriously? Are you not going to take the carb off to least open and clean it before you condemn it?

I took the carb off when I first got the engine. I cleaned it up best I could and mangled the main jet when I couldn't get it out.

May 25, 2022#50

2ball

Will1988 said:
Keep the original carb if the engine runs good. Chinese carbs are junk. I recommend putting a fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line and simply turn it off when you're done mowing. If you were having an over-fueling situation while mowing, I would recommend a new inlet needle or carb replacement. But since your issue is just when the machine is sitting, that is the cheapest, simplest cure to this situation. $5-$10 fix.

I've been using the fuel shut off every time I put it away. I would then run it out of gas. The next start up I would use starter fluid to start it so it didn't have to crank for 30 seconds before the fuel entered the mix. I got ambitious and thought I could fix the flooding issue for $20. At the end of the day I may be able to fix the flooding issue for $8.90, if the needle that arrives tomorrow fixes the flooding.

May 25, 2022#51

StarTech

2ball said:
I took the carb off when I first got the engine. I cleaned it up best I could and mangled the main jet when I couldn't get it out.

Next time try to remove these nozzles just be aware the correct tool is a hollow ground straight side flat blade bit. Even then they are hard to get out if cemented in place.

May 25, 2022#52

B

bertsmobile1

skiman said:
I've been repairing mowers for almost 50 years...the last 20 years ive been using the aftermarket chinese carbs for briggs...either the nikki or walbro style with maybe 2 issues over 200 carbs...OEM gets 4 markups before its sold to you...briggs buys almost all ov their carbs in china now...the markups go this way...briggs arranges to buy a lot of carbs for distribution...they add a markup on top of the buying from the OEM...then sell it to the distributors who mark it up for sale to the dealers who mark it up for sale to you...4 markup from the original suppliers...ill keep buying the aftermarket and save my customers a lot of money...

There is a big difference between an aftermarket carb from a reputable supplier and the cheapest one you can find on ebay or amazon.
I have never fitted an original carb to an engine for the entire time I have been running the business
I do fit aftermarket carbs from my wholesalers and have never had the slightest problem with any of them
I have also bought carbs directly from the factory / distributers in China and never had a problem with any of them other than having to dispose of the excess when I had to order 100 . Thi is not don for a cheaper price but because the wholesalers do not stock every old carb .

OTOH I get 2 to 3 customers through my gate every month who bought the cheapest carb off ebay then found out why it was so cheap .
I had one customer who bought 3 of them from 3 "different" vendors thus spent more than a certified carb from me .
I suggested that they were all probably sold by the same person using different names .
HE checked his pay pal account & found that yes 2 of the payments went to the same account despite one carb being less cheap than the other .

May 26, 2022#53

J

jrsnofive

I bought that cheap carb. on Amazon and I am presently installing it for third time now, fuel leaked into oil as you stated, Kohler manual for the starting point on high low was way too much fuel, then of course I adjusted the needle valve to low and hoping the next time I install it works. Retired and needed one of my old machines running to cut the grass. The folks on this form are a great resource. Now I'm wondering if I have the correct carburetor for my tractor. Wish me luck.

May 26, 2022#54

Hammermechanicman

Well.........we have had a few what's the best oil threads and a couple my spark plug is better than your spark plug threads. Maybe we need a my Chinese Amazon carb is just as good as you OEM carb figh.........er.....ah....... discussion. Please check your guns and knives at the door and enjoy rhe party. ?

May 26, 2022#55

oldlawnguy

Scrubcadet10 said:
I bought a cheap chinesium carb for a customer last spring, at his request... He came in a few days ago. said the carb flooded and filled his crankcase.... Now, i always keep old carbs..... found his old one... or at least an identical one, told him i had i rebuild kit and i could have him running by that evening....
I always give 4 options, and the prices.... i'd say about 30% go for quality aftermaket, 20% for OEM's. and 50% for Cheap chinese carbs.
OEM carb
OEM Rebuild Kit
Quality aftermarket (stens etc.)
Aftermarket ( Amazon, best reviewed)

If you are handy get an OEM rebuild kit, if not you can roll the dice on cheap carb at prob 50:50 odds. All depends if tinkering is fun for you.

May 26, 2022#56

B

Bellcrank

2ball said:
A couple years ago, I got a free mower with a blown engine. I bought a $150 used engine and I have been running it for the 3rd seasons now. It burns or leaks oil and if I don't use the fuel shout off when I put it away it leaks gas into the oil. I recently with your help figured out which engine I have (31C707-0154-E1).

I feel like I'm just not going to spend $135 on a carb from Briggs and Stratton on what's now an $80 engine.

someone on here said the engine was from 2004. That predates any vehicle engine that I own, it predates Facebook and Gmail.

I think I fixed the oil leak by tightening up the rocker cover, but we will see.

I hear the gas in the oil is a needle and seat issue.

I am feeling like a $20 Chinese carb is in my future.

bertsmobile1 said:
The problem is most techs can spot a refurbished carb or defective carb from 10 foot away
Most DIY home mechanics can not .
Even worse often the photos that are used on Evilpay & Ammozone are not the actual item being sold but a generic photo
Thus you don't know it has been repaired till you get it in your hands.
Mot vendors require you to pay for the return post and the return post for the defective carb is greater than the original purchase price, so you go & order another .
I have had customers come through the gate demmanding that I fit an original carb because they have bought 2 or 3 on line and every one was defective .
By now of course they needed to borrow a chair & whip to get past the lions & tigers hiding in the 4' grass in their front yard

May 26, 2022#57

B

Bellcrank

How about testing the needle and seat to see if it is sealing. Do this with a know quality float installed. Knowing is a time saver.

May 26, 2022#58

M

mmoffitt

2ball said:
A couple years ago, I got a free mower with a blown engine. I bought a $150 used engine and I have been running it for the 3rd seasons now. It burns or leaks oil and if I don't use the fuel shout off when I put it away it leaks gas into the oil. I recently with your help figured out which engine I have (31C707-0154-E1).

I feel like I'm just not going to spend $135 on a carb from Briggs and Stratton on what's now an $80 engine.

someone on here said the engine was from 2004. That predates any vehicle engine that I own, it predates Facebook and Gmail.

I think I fixed the oil leak by tightening up the rocker cover, but we will see.

I hear the gas in the oil is a needle and seat issue.

I am feeling like a $20 Chinese carb is in my future.

May 28, 2022#59

2ball

Bellcrank said:
How about testing the needle and seat to see if it is sealing. Do this with a know quality float installed. Knowing is a time saver.

I don't have a pump like that, but I blew on it with my mouth and it seemed ok!

May 28, 2022#60

S

slomo

2ball said:
I don't have a pump like that, but I blew on it with my mouth and it seemed ok!

It also needs a time test on it. Not an oral fixation quickie LOL. Something like 10-30 minutes would be nice.

Jun 1, 2022#61

gamma_ray

StarTech said:
No. That not what are designed to do.

What is it for then?

Jun 4, 2022#62

S

slomo

Is the OP cutting grass yet?

Jun 4, 2022#63

2ball

So I bought a new needle and float and installed them. I have not tested them to see if they are functioning property.

I did cut grass when the needle tip was broken off, so I assume the needle was not working at all at that time. The mower ran properly and I shut off the fuel as soon as I was done.

Do I need to change the oil because I ran the mower without a properly working float?, or will it be ok, because the needle does most of the work when the engine is off?

Jun 4, 2022#64

S

slomo

2ball said:
So I bought a new needle and float and installed them. I have not tested them to see if they are functioning property.

I did cut grass when the needle tip was broken off, so I assume the needle was not working at all at that time. The mower ran properly and I shut off the fuel as soon as I was done.

Do I need to change the oil because I ran the mower without a properly working float?, or will it be ok, because the needle does most of the work when the engine is off?

Definitely on dumping the oil. Maybe 2 or 3 times to get all the fuel out.

That needle works all the time just like a toilet in your house does. Yes it needs replaced and the seat cleaned/replaced too.

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