Charging issues

R

Rpsls

Forum Newbie
I’ve got an older Toro ZT mower with a twin cylinder Kohler engine on it. It’s not charging the battery, I’m only getting about 12v when using a voltmeter on it when running. I’ve replaced the stator, the voltage regulator, the battery, starter, solenoid, and starter cables, but the battery still seems dead after using the mower for several hours. It won’t turn over, just a clicking solenoid.

The only thing left would be to replace the flywheel? Magnets have lost their strength? What else could it be?
 
Sounds like you have money to spend by throwing parts at the problem before diagnosing the cause. Most techs on this forum hate it when a customer comes in with a unit and the customer tells them what you just told us. You forgot to tell us the most important piece of information we need to help you. WHAT IS THE MODEL AND SPEC NUMBERS OF YOUR KOHLER ENGINE? WE ARE NOT MIND READERS AND HAVE LOST OUR CRYSTAL BALLS. If you supply us with your numbers, we should be able to supply you with a service manual which contains charging procedures to narrow down your problem. Please give us numbers, if you have a VOM meter, and your electrical expertise.
 
Rpsls said:
I’ve got an older Toro ZT mower with a twin cylinder Kohler engine on it. It’s not charging the battery, I’m only getting about 12v when using a voltmeter on it when running. I’ve replaced the stator, the voltage regulator, the battery, starter, solenoid, and starter cables, but the battery still seems dead after using the mower for several hours. It won’t turn over, just a clicking solenoid.

The only thing left would be to replace the flywheel? Magnets have lost their strength? What else could it be?
Click to expand...
The odds that you installed a defective part right out of the box or made a mistake are much greater than the magnets on flywheel losing strength.
 
Well where he checking 12v+ is important as if not present at the voltage regulator with engine not running but ignition switch then the voltage regulator will not work as it must have a reference voltage.

Stop throwing parts at the problem and get to testing the electrical system, IF OP don't know how to do this find someone that can.

Just throwing parts at the problem can get very expensive and result continued failures. It better to let someone that knows what they are doing to do the testing.
 
Tiger Small Engine said:
The odds that you installed a defective part right out of the box or made a mistake are much greater than the magnets on flywheel losing strength.
Click to expand...
Eh, it’s reading the same as the old part. Probably nothing wrong with either of them. If it were straight up a bad part I’d expect no voltage or something different than the exact same 12v.
 
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