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Ome of my riders, Husqvarna YTH 2348, has a charging issue. With full throttle at battery terminals same voltage as wihtout running at all. Battery will die with continuous use. I have replaced the voltage regulator, no change, battery is new. There are two white wires (smaller wires) coming into voltage regulator that have no voltage on them while running, I am assuming those are charging wires and should have 18V or so coming in. I have read that this cvould be faulty ignition switch or obviously could be stator, anybody know how to test the ignition switch or narrow this down more?

Testing of the stators are similar. but would help if we knew what species of engine we are working on. Model numbers included would really help to diagnose your problem. Most likely not key switch. Most charging systems are wired battery hot.

John1001 said:

Ome of my riders, Husqvarna YTH 2348, has a charging issue. With full throttle at battery terminals same voltage as wihtout running at all. Battery will die with continuous use. I have replaced the voltage regulator, no change, battery is new. There are two white wires (smaller wires) coming into voltage regulator that have no voltage on them while running, I am assuming those are charging wires and should have 18V or so coming in. I have read that this cvould be faulty ignition switch or obviously could be stator, anybody know how to test the ignition switch or narrow this down more?

Click to expand...

Right & wrong.
The 2 white wires are the AC output.
They should read around 30 to 40 V AC between each other.
So a O reading could be trying ti read AC with your meter set to DC.
IF you really get 0 Volts AC then it is off with the flywheel to see what is wrong.

ILENGINE said:

Testing of the stators are similar. but would help if we knew what species of engine we are working on. Model numbers included would really help to diagnose your problem. Most likely not key switch. Most charging systems are wired battery hot.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that, after my post I went back to it, did a little research and started over, as it were. I found 30V AC coming off the stator, but coming into Voltage regulator I found nothing. So I took off engine cover and traced wires back, checked for 12V at each connection on that wire, nothing, not until I went to switch. At ignition switch I had no connection between battery and the voltage regulator. I cleaned all connections at switch with electrical parts cleaner and suddenly had charging again. It was either the dirt in the connection plug or a loose connection. To be safe I ordered another switch, (aftermarket, Stens, that appears to be from same mfg as OEM) for $24 from Amazon. but there is now 14V at battery when engine is at full throttle.

bertsmobile1 said:

Right & wrong.
The 2 white wires are the AC output.
They should read around 30 to 40 V AC between each other.
So a O reading could be trying ti read AC with your meter set to DC.
IF you really get 0 Volts AC then it is off with the flywheel to see what is wrong.

Click to expand...

Thanks for replying, after my post I went back to it, and tried again. I found 30V AC coming off the stator, but coming into Voltage regulator I found nothing. So I took off engine cover and traced wires back, checked for 12V at each connection on that wire, nothing, not until I went to switch. At ignition switch I had noconnection between battery and the voltage regulator. I cleaned all connections at switch with electrical parts cleaner and suddenly had charging again. It was either the dirt in the connection plug or a loose connection. To be safe I ordered another switch, (aftermarket, Stens, that appears to be from same mfg as OEM) for $24 from Amazon. but there is now 14V at battery when engine is at full throttle.

looks good thanks for letting us know what you found

John1001 said:

Thanks for replying, after my post I went back to it, and tried again. I found 30V AC coming off the stator, but coming into Voltage regulator I found nothing. So I took off engine cover and traced wires back, checked for 12V at each connection on that wire, nothing, not until I went to switch. At ignition switch I had noconnection between battery and the voltage regulator. I cleaned all connections at switch with electrical parts cleaner and suddenly had charging again. It was either the dirt in the connection plug or a loose connection. To be safe I ordered another switch, (aftermarket, Stens, that appears to be from same mfg as OEM) for $24 from Amazon. but there is now 14V at battery when engine is at full throttle.

Click to expand...

When running 14v + or - is correct.