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Hello all,
I have inherited a Ferris Pro Cut 61 Commercial Mower. Model#42220K Hydrostatic trans - foot control,
20hp V twin Kohler, 61" mower deck, Power deck lift. First of all, I apologize for any misspoken words in describing and conveying my questions, as I said the mower was inherited.

1.) Are free manuals available online, perhaps I've overlooked aqny links in the forum.

2.)How does one raise or lower the mower deck height? I see the three spacer washers located on each front deck idler wheel and the snap pin through the wheel spindle. One of my wheel spindles will not lower to the lowest point, i.e. placing all three spindle washers on top. If I try to place three on top the spindle will not enter completely into the bearing housing. It slides fine for any height using anywhere from none to two spacers on top of the spindle. The idle wheel stops short of fully seating in the bearing when i remove all spacers...becomes tight to the point the wheel won't spin. I see no damage and the wheel spindle appears straight however I have not placed a straight edge on it. The mower doesn't look like it has taken a hard shot against a tree but that's my guess given it slides in fine but won't bottom out. (Don't laugh, it happens to a lot of men) Is there another way to lower the deck or do I just buy another idler wheel??

I have two of those mowers....one was bought new in 1989 and still going strong! Great machines and hold on hills like nothing else I have ever seen.

You CAN download both the owners manuals and the parts diagrams for these from the Ferris website (Ferris Industries Home).

In short, there are two different DECK settings. If you look at where the deck bolts onto the engine chassis frame, there are 4 bolts on either side...there are two sets of holes, one will put the deck a little higher and one a little lower. This, in combination with the spacers on the front pivot wheels will set the deck LEVEL.

Then you will unbolt the blades and remove the long 5/8 bolt that goes thru the jackshaft. You will see there are a number of 1/4 inch spacer washers on that bolt..some on TOP of the jackshaft and some below it, but on top of the blade. Moving more of these washers to the bottom of the jackshaft, between the blade and the jackshaft, will set the cutting height of the blades.

There is a diagram and pic in the owners manual.

Thank you for your response. I looked online and did not see any manuals for my mower Model # H2220K and called the company and was told manuals specific to those mowers were not on the website...however they are still very similiar (with the exception of the engine) to the procut or any 3 wheeled mower still in production.

Thank you for the advice on the spacers at the blades. I was unaware there were additional spacers located here. To clarify they are located both beneath the deck AND above the deck under the actual deck cover, however i have not had a chance to inspect the mower yet.

See if these help...took some pics from my owners manual...
The manuals used to be online at the Ferris website, I guess they took them down.

Thanks! That's exactly what I needed. My mother-in-law has been talking badly about my Ferris and using her Home Depot Honda because I wasn't cutting the grass low enough. Well that's all about to be put to an end! LOL

When her big-box mower has 2000-3000 hours on it and it is still running strong, THEN she can tease you about your Ferris....:thumbsup:

Or for that matter, let her take her mower across slopes and steep hills the way that Ferris can! :biggrin:

When you pull the bolts out that hold the blades in, be sure to check them for straight-ness.
They are designed to be the weak-link and to bend FIRST if you hit anything.

Here is a pic of the hydro bypass valve...

comptonandlongbeach,
What was the verdict? Were the hydros working okay?

Sorry for the delay in responding. I found the problem with the hydraulics. An $8 spring placing tension on the idler pulley of the hydraulic belt had broken. Ordered a new spring and had it on in three days total. I must say they are difficult to reach, and even more difficult to stretch to the pin that holds them. I improvised a "spring puller" by stripping a 2 foot long piece of conductor wire from some 12 guage house wiring, threading it through the end hook of the spring, and wrapping the ends around my hands (foot against mower). Goes on like butter and you have better control on placement using two hands. Took longer to strip the wire.

I'm back on now researching posts due to a new problem but I'm almost sure it's in the carb.
Starts right up with about 3/4 to full choke. Runs (about 3 seconds) and will go in gear, moves, but then will die on acceleration. Then will restart but die with any acceleration. then won't even start. Come back to it and the same scenario all over again.

Fuel should be fine, was put away just 4 days ago after running fine. Could use a new breather but doesn't run without one either so thats out. I followed fuel through the filter to a diaphragm splitter of some sorts, one hose in and two out, fuel to the front line but not to the back. I feel the problem is in the carb, but it got dark on me and I never got to finish checking.

Now my search is on for the carb and schematics and Ferris doesn't post them online anymore.

EDIT: Thanks for the by-pass valve illustration, I can now push the mower back into the shed!

Its the same mower I own and I have never been sorry I bought it. The only bad thing I don't like is its a job to change blade height. Keep your front casters wheels well greased I had to replace the bearings and spacers in mine.

Glad it was just the spring...that is a CHEAP and easy fix. I know it can be difficult to get to, but is much easier if you take the deck off....4 bolts on each side and it comes right off....just make sure to put a 2x4 behind the drive-wheel, you will see where a round steel rod comes off the side of the deck (it should have a rubber boot around it) and keeps the engine deck from swinging too low past the metal frame that the wheel is bolted to (probably doesnt make much sense, but look behind either of the drive wheels and you will see what I am talking about).

As for the fuel pump, you are correct...one line coming in from the tank, one going out to the carb (both carry fuel) and a vacuum line coming from the engine to drive the fuel pump...no fuel in that one, just vacuum from engine.

It sounds like your carb is dirty. You might try some Seafoam...I have not tried it myself, but know other people that swear by it. Otherwise, time for a carb rebuild and cleaning. There are several small passages in the carb that are easy to foul-up.